hchris
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Posts posted by hchris
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All things being equal, with due attention to details already mentioned, my own experience with a CF8 is that 50mph is quite comfortable on the open road.
As to front end shimmy, almost invariably it's the wedges under the front springs that set the castor which are the main culprits, ever had a shopping trolley go rogue on you? ?
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Fouled plugs are usually a good indicator of over rich mixture, black and sooty is the indication, wet and oily will indicate oil leakage. As others have said bubbling at the plugs suggests wrong plugs, lack of plug gaskets, not enough plug torque.
As to over rich mixture, assuming the choke isn't stuck closed, I would be looking at :
incorrect mixture screw adjustment
worn float valve needle or seat
wrong float height / sinking float.
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Not being familiar with the Zephyr I would nevertheless be cautious about blanking off any draft tube orifice.
Most vehicles in this era had a draft inlet thru the oil filler cap and a draft tube exit from the rocker cover or side plate on the block, blanking off any of these ports will lead to over pressurisation within the crank case / block and thus the internal blow by pressures will seek an outlet, more often than not back thru the filler worse via the crank shaft seals.
It might be worth a bit more research before applying any blanks, or at the very least keep an eye out for any external oil leaks if you do go ahead.
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Yes indeed, very nice 1933 DP and i believe "Town Sedan" is correct for this body style.
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2 hours ago, Bluejeepnut said:
I am planning to remove and clean the oil pan on my 1924 Maxwell. While off, I am thinking it would be a good idea to check rod and main bearing clearances.
I would appreciate help with determining acceptable tolerance ranges for rod and main bearings. Also, what would be acceptable torque ranges for both on reassembly?
Thank you.
If there is no significant reason for you to remove bearings I would be leaving everything intact; on the other hand if you have deep knocking noises or low oil pressure then the advice as offered by others is good.
You just never know what may arise after disturbing things unnecessarily.
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4 hours ago, CT Car Guy said:
Thanks.
I have been there and it just confuses me more. It is listed on the registry list dated Feb 2011 in MI ( No TAC) which the cars documents concur but it was Mr. Miller who dismissed the car as non-factory. I do plan to dive in and get the engine, transmission and differential numbers but am not sure if I can find a source to reference. I also plan to look at the grease points. I know that sounds strange but the Tiger and Alpine differ greatly with the number and locations.
I attempted to see if I could get the car authenticated by the Tiger (TAC) but they primarily operate on the west coast. There is only one senior inspector on the east and he is several hundred miles way. FYI - they require 3 inspectors to concur so it is impossible to have this done. I am holding off purchasing the car until I can be absolutely sure it is genuine. They have had a lot of clones recently as the prices go up that are being passed off.
THX
Larry
Connecticut
Can i suggest you approach someone in the Sunbeam Alpine Owners Club of America (SAOCA) via their forum or Tigers East Alpines East (TEAE) is another authoritive organisation.
I can verify that the procedure for authenticating a Tiger is very rigid and time consuming, sadly the market brought it on itself.
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11 hours ago, 42319DB34 said:
" Log 16, 3rd photo. ( engine bay ) appears veh has a ( later than 33-34 )
'35 and later have full water jacket on left side of engine +
water distribution tube running length of block.
33-34 w/o water jacket on left side of block ."
Well spotted, just noted that the engine number is D41, so much later than the car; not an uncommon issue given the age of the car.
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Sounds like a plan but do consider, if you are running new wires, the clothes line trick because you can afford to get it wrong before you cut a length of good wire only to find it wont fit.
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14 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
No apology needed! You are right on.
Ben
Amen to that
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Ok, if you have the old loom out and intact ,there is an old rodders method of building up new looms.
From the nearest hardware store grab a few rolls of poly clothes line, run various lengths to match existing wires, label them, then run them through the chassis / body fixings and build up a replica loom; once you are happy with positioning and room for terminations, remove the fake loom, lay it out then reproduce each length in "real" wire and install it.
It might seem a lengthy process, but you can afford to make a mistake or two running clothes line until you get it right rather than cutting expensive wire and having to redo it.
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Oh my !! yes you do have a problem or two.
My approach, with the aid of the wiring diagram, would be to start a systematic chase of each wire from under the dash, so perhaps start with the lighting switch, look at the diagram, see how many and which path each wire takes and follow it through from switch to light, marking / labelling each wire as you go, then say instrument wires, ignition switch wires etc.and so on. Laborious i know but at least you will map out a path for the correct wiring, then focus on what needs replacing and after that, do the troubleshooting if it hasnt already been fixed.
At the end of the day cars of this era were fairly simple in terms of wiring, think about what your needs were, lights, horn, instruments, starter, ignition, battery, generator and control and thats about it; work through each system one at a time and you will get there. Good luck and keep asking questions.
My memory for the DP is that the main loom passes from under the dash out through the bulkhead on the drivers side, it splits off to the starter, distributor, generator and control box in the engine bay; the main loom continues through the drivers side chassis rail to the lh headlight, under the front cross member to the rh headlight, oh and the horn wires run under the cross member as well, then down through the right chassis rail to tail lights and fuel sender unit.
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For someone who has so much wiring experience i am surprised at your focus on the "negative earth" aspect of your electrical system, as others have said there is no difference in wiring a negative or positive ground system.
The fact that you have a 6 volt system does make a difference in your choice of wire guage, there are many on line sources which will give you this info, but typically 12g for the feed wires and 14g for the receiver wires is the norm; battery / starter cables need to be heavier.
I suspect your high / low beam issue is most likely to be a bad earth somewhere in your lighting wiring.
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16 hours ago, reflections said:
Has anybody put disc brakes on a 1934 chrysler CA and what was the biggest motor that was on the CA chrysler chassis. Thanks
No and I would ask why would you want to fit discs ?
Biggest original engine is the one that came with it 241.5ci. The problem you will find, if you are considering a later side valve engine, is the configuration of block, bell housing and starter motor.
Up to 1934 Chrysler had the exposed water jacket block, this dictates the starter placement, bell housing shape and clutch / transmission mounts / links,.without major re fabrication of mounts etc. any later engine wont fit.
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Certainly would not be the first cracked block i`ve seen for this era Chry / Dodge / Des. and probably not the last, they all had a known weakness in these areas, 6 cylinders as well.
As others have said, looks like an older professional job, probably done when these repairs were common place by someone who knew what they were doing; leave it alone until it becomes a problem, that said, it probably wont be in your lifetime.
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Replacing the oil in a friends garage, all 5 litres of it finished up on the floor - forgot to put the sump plug back in.
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OK plenty of arguments re 6v or 12v; but in the first post as I read it the issue was no spark.
Without a spark you wont have to worry about the starter, generator wiring etc.because you cant get the engine to run, so perhaps one thing at a time and as I understand it getting a spark would be the first priority ??
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3 minutes ago, Tinindian said:
retiredmechanic74 Your trouble shooting advice was very good but some of your facts are wrong. Dodge for one used 12 volts in the teens and twenties as well as some others and 24 volts was also used in that era.
Why would you change a 6 volt system to 12 volts unless you were adding accessories. 6 or 12 volts will do the same work only 6 volts require more amps.
Points taken, but here I am just going through the excercise of electrical continuity, it doesnt matter at this stage whether the coil is 6 or 12 volt.
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OK, the trigger to the coil is via the points in the distributor. If you dont have a spark across the points the coil wont fire, whilst you may have power at the coil it needs to flow though the points and back to the coil to create a high voltage spark. So power at the coil is only one half of the solution.
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OK if I can chime in, at this stage dont worry too much about the 6v versus 12v, find out why there is no spark; you will get spark with either voltage.
See that white wire coming into the distributor, that carries current form the ignition switch to the contact breakers (points) you first need to determine if you have power at that wire with the ignition turned on, a test lamp or volt meter will quickly establish this.
If you have power there, the next thing to do is hand turn the motor to a position where the points are closed, then with the ignition turned on, with a small screw driver manually lever the points open, you should see a small spark at the points, the spark wont be too bright so you may have to throw a cover over the area to keep it dim if you are out in the sunlight.
If you dont have a spark at this point you can start by running a piece of emery or fine file between the contact points to make a clean electrical contact surface, if that doesnt work you need to back track through the wiring to find out why; the coil will not produce a spark without this circuit being complete.
If you do have a spark at the points then we can move onto the coil wiring, but first do this bit, its the most likely cause of your troubles.
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Amongst other things you might want to check the carb float height, too high will give you over rich, too low the opposite.
Have a look at the plugs after a lengthy idle period, if it`s really too rich there will be black sooty deposits on the plugs.
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Amendment to the above, the square window style would make it 1929 I believe.
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41°C ( 106°F ) down here today, just another bright summer day
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Ribbon band radiator surround makes it 1930, a 66 would be my guess and probably a Royal given the body style and wires.
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Yes, please don`t second guess the brakes, do the lot.
You will need a special hub puller to get the rear brake drums off, search this forum for further info if you`re not familiar with them, there are plenty of posts on this topic.
1929 DeSoto Stewart-Warner vacuum fuel pump
in General Discussion
Posted
Not sure that I`m seeing all of the video, seems that your sound is not syncing with pictures, you`re mentioning springs and levers that I`m not seeing.
Nevertheless, the inner tank that you removed needs to be dismantled further, inside is a float/lever mechanism that opens and shuts the little flapper valve at the bottom.
A couple of critical items with these bits are 1) the flapper valve must seal properly on its seat, if there are blemishes or marks on the mating surfaces it wont seal and that inner container will not hold fuel like its supposed to, if you have any leakage here you need to polish the joint surfaces with lapping compound to get a proper seal. 2) the correct movement of float and levers connected to the flapper valve are also very important if they don`t function correctly then again the inner tank wont hold fuel.
Essentially the purpose of that inner tank is to keep the outer tank topped up with fuel, the inner tank is subjected to both fuel and vacuum, when the float is down a vac port is open to the main fuel tank, the vacuum created draws fuel into the inner tank and the float rises, at a predetermined point the float rises far enough to open the flapper valve and it dumps the content of the inner tank into the outer tank, which then supplies the carb. Having dumped the inner tank contents the float/ lever mechanism will close the flapper at which point vacuum starts to draw in more fuel and the process is repeated.
So long story short, check float mechanism and flapper seating. You can, with the inner tank removed and held over a suitable container, pour fuel into the inner tank and check its function, what should happen is the fuel will rise to a certain level and the flapper open and dump its load, at least you have determined that this part of the system works, keep an eye on the flapper valve that it remains dry until it opens.