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hchris

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Posts posted by hchris

  1. OK if I can chime in, at this stage dont worry too much about the 6v versus 12v, find out why there is no spark;  you will get spark with either voltage.

     

    See that white wire coming into the distributor, that carries current form the ignition switch to the contact breakers (points) you first need to determine if you have power at that wire with the ignition turned on, a test lamp or volt meter will quickly establish this.

     

    If you have power there, the next thing to do is hand turn the motor to a position where the points are closed, then with the ignition turned on, with a small screw driver manually lever the points open, you should see a small spark at the points, the spark wont be too bright so you may have to throw a cover over the area to keep it dim if you are out in the sunlight.

     

    If you dont have a spark at this point you can start by running a piece of emery or fine file between the contact points to make a clean electrical contact surface, if that doesnt work you  need to back track through the wiring to find out why; the coil will not produce a spark without this circuit being complete.

     

    If you do have a spark at the points then we can move onto the coil wiring, but first do this bit, its the most likely cause of your troubles.

  2. Amongst other things you might want to check the carb float height, too high will give you over rich,  too low the opposite.

     

    Have a look at the plugs after a lengthy idle period, if it`s really too rich there will be black sooty deposits on the plugs.

  3. Not wanting to rain on your parade, but I noticed the mention of a honeycomb radiator.

     

    If its original, you may experience overheating next summer as they are almost impossible to clean out, perhaps now that its running you may want to get the engine up to temp and see if it remains cool.

     

    Better to check it out now than be stuck somewhere in the heat of summer.

     

    Lovely find by the way, envy overload ;)

  4. 1 hour ago, OldMoparNutMONTE Harmon said:

    Hi, 

    I nearly bought this car 40 years ago. At that time the engine was in pieces. I let the deal go, and found the car again last year. 

    I bought it in April. It had been put back together and had not run for 20 years. The engine was reported to have been rebuilt.

    Long story short, , I bought it as is. I got it running,no knocks, but it

    had little or no oil pressure.  A quick check of the usual suspects turned up nothing. I took the oil pump out, the old gear type. 

    i had a newer type rotary pump, but it is too short for this engine. I ended up using the longer shaft in the rotary pump. Back

    in the car, i could now get 15-20 PSI oil pressure. Not enough! Ended up pulling the oil pan. found a cracked fitting on the

    supply tube to the pressure relief valve. Aha! fixed that up, no difference. While I was in there, I plasti-gauged one of the mains.

    .003" clearance. I think it should have been half of that. At this point, I think it will have to come out and apart. I have a good

    running engine that came out of a 50 or so Dodge.My idea was to put it in as a temp while i check the  original. Wanted to see if 

    anyone else has done this?

     

    Sorry, if you go down that road prepare yourself for a lot of frustrating work, ask me how I know.

  5. Not many; because these were the last of the exposed water jacket engines, you need pre 33 / 34 Dodge/Plym/Des/Chry engines otherwise you will be messing around with clutch housing / starter mounting and then trans cross members and so on.

     

    Essentially your engine, because of the rear block water jacket configuration, has the starter motor mounted close in to the block, so if you try a later flat sided engine (full water jacket) you will have to use a matching clutch housing which then means different gear box and mountings. etc. 

  6. 8 hours ago, keithb7 said:

    Alright, so with #1 piston at TDC, distributor rotor is pointed toward spark plug lead wire #1.  Crank pulley is labeled D.C. (Dead Centre I assume) at this position. Inserting pin in access hole at cylinder head #6 cylinder access confirms also. At this point #6 cylinder should be at top of exhaust stroke. I double checked, that when #6 cylinder is actually at TDC, rotor points to #6 wire position. That tells me ignition timing is correct. Spark plug wires are in proper positions. I have checked multiple times.

     

    However...Something new to consider. While I took an hour off for dinner, I left the key switch in the run position by accident. Earlier, I was hitting to starter to get a visual on normal crank shaft rotation direction. Back after dinner by fluke, I touched and noticed the main ignition coil was quite warm.  I assume a result of leaving the key in the run position. Is this normal for the coil to get warm like this? Or is this a sign the coil has an internal short? A bad coil could be a reason for my poor running engine.

     

    " I touched and noticed the main ignition coil was quite warm.  I assume a result of leaving the key in the run position. Is this normal for the coil to get warm like this? Or is this a sign the coil has an internal short?"

     

    Leaving the power on will mean that the battery  current will be flowing through the coil continuously, a coil is exactly that, a coil of wire which will get hot just like the old bar radiators when power passes through; if the points happened to be closed then, they and the condenser, will also heat up; given that these components are designed to switch on and off, constant current flow is not good for them.

     

    Given all you have done so far, I would try another condenser and see what happens, jumped timing etc. would not be on my list of probable cause given that it ran well? prior to you touching the ignition system.

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  7. First thing I would do is disconnect the upper arm at the accelerator pump, set the idle speed, then come back to setting up the accel pump arm.

  8. Yes, the method you describe in the first post will work.

     

    As already stated, turning the crank back will allow the timing chain to slacken a little, wont damage anything but next time you turn it forward the slack will have to be taken up again, and, during this small amount of crank travel, the cam will remain stationary.

     

    I`m with Rusty, why second guess what the engineers designed, set the clearances as per specs.

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