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Posts posted by hchris

  1. And if its of any further help - don't think this has been specified yet - stop the engine by turning off the vac tank tap and letting the carb run dry, switch the ignition off after the engine has stopped.


    As to flooding, prime suspect would be the needle/seat float mechanism, the engine will flood and continue to do so whilst the vac tank tap is open, there is nowhere else for the fuel to go, heed Jon`s warning !!

  2. As others have said very smooth and silent running, complicated mechanically if you want to rebuild; but as Rusty says - big time smokers. The #1 draw back with this beautiful piece of machinery is keeping the oil inside; with conventional push rod / valved engines, when they smoke you can often get away with a quick repair to valve guides or seals, not so with sleeve valve engines, a complete strip down is required and I doubt now that there would be many machine shops left with the knowledge on how to go about repairing them.


    And going slightly off topic, the Brits used this technology in a lot of their radial engine aircraft; many of these aircraft had endurance ranges limited not by their fuel carrying capacity but instead by their oil carrying capacity.


    • Like 1

  3. 11 hours ago, carbking said:

    Anyway, the cast iron was a thin casting and when the zinc alloy "swells" it often cracks the cast iron, creating an air leak right at the venture 




    Amen to that, once had a box full of them - at one stage I tried to cast venturi in bronze and have it machined, all got too hard in the end.

  4. 39 minutes ago, Leeroy said:

    Thanks Guys, I'll try some of the stating techniques mentioned, if all else fails I'll give it a squirt of "Start ya Bastard: :-) I picked up a can yesterday.

    @37_Roadmaster_C thanks for the safety tip, mine has both Crank handle and electric start, once I sort my starting issues I plan on ensuring I can fire it up with the crank.


    I plan on stripping down the carb , to inspect and clean if required.


    Does anyone have any documentation on this style of similar?


    Good luck with that, I haven't seen a carb or parts in years.


    Having said that, they are very simple and the problems you are likely to be dealing with are worn throttle spindles and worn needle/seat float mechanisms, none are insurmountable.

  5. 20 hours ago, Leeroy said:

    Thanks Chris,

    Just another thought, is it OK to squirt "easy Start" in these old engines? As in a short squirt in the intake?


    For sure, the problem however remains with an updraft carb that anything you put into the intake usually "falls out" again before you can get the starter turning, unless you have very long arms.

  6. Yep, carb is original, springs are after market but obviously doing the job.


    Yes you are likely to see throttle ice in our neck of the woods at this time of year, but this usually forms once the engine has been running for a minute or two.


    How do I know ? because the first few blocks of driving from home were the most difficult when cold, particularly at traffic lights, trying to keep it running. 


    Observing the ice ring forming around the casting adjacent the throttle plate, whilst in the shed, confirmed this for me.


    In short all of your symptoms are typical of my experiences and using variations of the above remedies, in time, will sort you out. What worked best for me was to remove the plugs, tip a few drops of fuel straight into the plug holes refit plugs, half choke, ignition full retard, enough hand throttle for a fast idle and hit the starter, usually it would fire immediately; a complicated procedure but achieved the desired results.  

    • Like 2

  7. 8 hours ago, broker-len said:

    I have read on this forum to put the piston at TDC and adjust intake and exhaust     others say to rotate motor till one valve begins to open and set the other and when it closes the other-------------I have a 31 plymouth-------------------looking for suggestions and why------------------thank you in advance


    Given that its side valve access is always a problem, particularly with a hot engine.


    Take the side plate(s) off and bring #1 to TDC, both valves at #1 should be slack meaning they are seated closed, at this time #4 exhaust should be closing and #4 inlet opening i.e. rocking, now set the clearances on both #1 valves.


    Next turn the crank 180 degrees so that #3 is at TDC, #2 valves should be rocking as before, set #3 clearances.


    Repeat these steps with 180 degree crank turn for #4, #1 valves rocking and then #2, #3 valves rocking.


    Ideally setting them hot is best, but doing it cold is easier and if you have the right "feel" on the gap then it will be good enough. You will hear that setting them hot is critical but we are talking elementary cam profiles here with an under stressed low rev engine, don't get too excited with it.



  8. 22 hours ago, The Caponemobile said:


    Re: Chrysler 77 emergency brake


                My 1930 Chrysler 77 Sedan has a problem with the emergency, or “parking” brake.  It does not hold when the car is on a hill: it allows the car to roll back.  On some situations that requires the agility of a ballet dancer, and I am not one.   According to the manual, I need to space the brake band 1/16 inch away from drum (on the drive shaft) all around.  The procedure is clear, and I understand it.  I have two questions, and in the case of the first one, I admit I haven’t looked for the answer. 


                The first question is, can I adjust the parking brake by lifting the floor boards?  At my age, getting “out and under” is no problem.  Getting up after is not so easy.  I have a friend who will let me put my car on a lift, but that introduces the problem of getting to the lever in the car to check adjustments.  Doing the job with the rear wheels off the ground is easier obviously, if I can work through the floor of the cab.


                My second question is, can I use shims between the brake drum and the  shoe to establish the 1/16 inch clearance between drum and shoe?  I would presume that if I made adjustments in the order prescribed in the manual –until the inserted shims moved with slight friction, that I would be about as close to the required adjustment as any visual adjustment would achieve.


                I will be grateful for any opinions and advice that the experienced can offer.   I am a neophyte with this car, and a recent owner.  I am sure to have more probably naïve questions about a car that is about as much fun as I can have with my clothes on, or off, at this age.


                Thanks for your help.





    The 1/16 is really an arbitrary number, so I wouldn't be bothering with shims. What you may find is an accumulation of oil and other contaminants on the brake bits, cleaning with a good solvent may help matters, if however the lining is worn too far then relining is the only option, you will find this out if you run out of adjustment.

  9. 8 hours ago, keithb7 said:

    Alright, so with #1 piston at TDC, distributor rotor is pointed toward spark plug lead wire #1.  Crank pulley is labeled D.C. (Dead Centre I assume) at this position. Inserting pin in access hole at cylinder head #6 cylinder access confirms also. At this point #6 cylinder should be at top of exhaust stroke. I double checked, that when #6 cylinder is actually at TDC, rotor points to #6 wire position. That tells me ignition timing is correct. Spark plug wires are in proper positions. I have checked multiple times.


    However...Something new to consider. While I took an hour off for dinner, I left the key switch in the run position by accident. Earlier, I was hitting to starter to get a visual on normal crank shaft rotation direction. Back after dinner by fluke, I touched and noticed the main ignition coil was quite warm.  I assume a result of leaving the key in the run position. Is this normal for the coil to get warm like this? Or is this a sign the coil has an internal short? A bad coil could be a reason for my poor running engine.


    " I touched and noticed the main ignition coil was quite warm.  I assume a result of leaving the key in the run position. Is this normal for the coil to get warm like this? Or is this a sign the coil has an internal short?"


    Leaving the power on will mean that the battery  current will be flowing through the coil continuously, a coil is exactly that, a coil of wire which will get hot just like the old bar radiators when power passes through; if the points happened to be closed then, they and the condenser, will also heat up; given that these components are designed to switch on and off, constant current flow is not good for them.


    Given all you have done so far, I would try another condenser and see what happens, jumped timing etc. would not be on my list of probable cause given that it ran well? prior to you touching the ignition system.

    • Like 1

  10. First thing I would do is disconnect the upper arm at the accelerator pump, set the idle speed, then come back to setting up the accel pump arm.

  11. 57 minutes ago, broker-len said:

    Sir-----thanks for your response       this motor was rebuilt  checked valve settings,   checked compression     60 in all holes   checked timing and points  condenser is newer,,,, checked for vacuum leak     the plug wires are older     but does not explain my problem          the plugs are black     and the idle screw does not seem to affect anything       was told low coil out put could cause this kind of problem       I have rebuild the BB1  a few times    with a new bowl gasket        I am not a professional but not a novice either        since the BB1 is not original for car and I have a brass bowl      will try that before I start putting money in a BB1 professional rebuild       if I still have issues will try a different coil        after that will make a planter out of  the car


    "the plugs are black" - not sure what the cause is, but certainly too rich.

  12. 9 hours ago, wangwilko said:

    . I also would like to know about the shackle that attaches to the rear leaf spring and chassis, does it only use the metal bushing screwed into the leaf spring eye or should there be a bushing. I was thinking it would wear metal on metal, but maybe the internal thread and shackle do the moving which can be lubricated. I would appreciate any help or assistance. Thanks Peter (Australia)


    These bushes are metal to metal, and fit either end of the spring hanger. One piece threads into the eye of the spring another threads over it, the same goes for the hanger/chassis end, grease nipples are in the bush ends; when assembled the two bush pieces turn inside each other as the hangers pivot back and forth. They are common on all Mopar vehicles from the 30`s to 60`s, however there are various sizes depending on the specific vehicles.


    Removing and installing these bushes is quite challenging, particularly getting the inner and outer pieces in the correct position on the hanger, and in the spring eye, if you have never done this job before you would be best advised to seek help. If you are downunder you might try Jim Robinson in Maryborough Vic. 03 54614619 for supplies

  13. On ‎11‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 11:24 AM, daledon said:

    I bought a 58 coronet. I turn on the headlights, and I have none. Turn on park lights they work fine. Could the light switch be bad. I guess there is no fuse anywhere, that I can find. Thanks Don


    Not a fuse as such, but a bimetallic switch built into the headlight switch. If there is a short circuit in the headlight wiring, the switch heats up and opens contacts to prevent burnt wiring.


    Don't forget the floor mounted dipper switch is in the circuit as well, have you tried turning on headlights and activating the dipper switch to see what happens ?

  14. 7 hours ago, broker-len said:

    I thought is was rich-------this is the carb with the adjustment under the bowl       I run it fast idle  then turn it in until it slows then back  out-------maybe bad neidle and seat ?????


    Not sure which carb you are talking about; if it idles ok and runs smooth enough at low revs then its probably not an idle mixture problem. From what I understand you are bogging down at higher revs ? going into second ? if so this would indicate a main metering jet problem. 


    So, I suggest you have a fiddle with the lower adjustment and see if this improves things, if not then you may have needle and seat problems or perhaps a float setting issue; it would help if there was a little more background info, such as when this first started, you say the carb was rebuilt - has this fault occurred immediately after it was rebuilt?


    As to the distributor being t fault, certainly could be the cause of not wanting to accelerate, but it wont give you black sooty plugs, that's a carb issue - perhaps you have more than one problem??


    I would start with the carb first off.

  15. 3 hours ago, broker-len said:

    this is a model PA     motor rebuilt    new pistons and valves   adjusted valves when I got it home  head checked for being true  new head gasket    running a carter BB1 updraft carb  I just rebuilt      I believe it is timed correct     compression is   60 in all holes  wires are old but see no signs of arching--cap shows no arcking---put a vacuum gage on wiper port and it is pulsing        if I clean  the plugs they get dark right away        when driving it    can't get out of second  no power   point are gaped correctly                 what do you think-------bobnroman@yahoo.com


    Dark plugs would indicate an over rich mixture, hence carb issues, which could be faulty choke, stuck float, etc. 

  16. 1 hour ago, Taylormade said:

    Is there any place on the Dodge six engine where you can tell if the oil passages are actually full?  Some point where oil will appear if you're forcing oil into the gauge line, maybe in the lifter galley?  


    If you haven't got it at the guage outlet then it wont be anywhere else, take the pump off (not a big job) and prime it before refitting. Don't forget to get the timing right before removal ;)

  17. 1 hour ago, Taylormade said:

    The engine was completely rebuilt, so the oil,pump should be in good shape - no missing teeth or gear problems.  After several more attempts with no success, it's obvious I'm going to,have to pressure feed the oil lines from the oil gauge feed connection as you folks have suggested.  I'm amazed a turkey baster can force the oil in with sufficient force.  I was going to make a pressurized tank out of industrial grade PVC, fill it with oil, then pressurize to 40 pounds and inject the oil under pressure into the journals.  I know, I know, PVC and air pressure don't mix, but at 40 pounds I should be okay.


    Yes, the design of the Dodge pumps really dictate that they should be primed before installation, as suggested you might try back priming through the guage fitting, and I really wouldn't be starting it until I saw some pressure.

  18. 14 hours ago, bypass said:
    First I have to thank everyone for the help.


    About the tightening,


    In Richasco´s information, says 60-65 lbs, but I think that this head (silver dome) have to be re-tighten, when the engine is "hot", and here I don´t know what tightening must give...



    About the oil,


    I'm going to remove and clean the oil pan.  


    I had already bought the Millerol M30 (non detergent), because I read that engines without oil filter only must use non detergent:




    but now I'm very confused....because there are opinions that, non-detergent, reduce the life of the engine...I 







    You know if you are 15 years of age, going to keep this car for the rest of your life and use it as a daily driver on the freeway, then you could justifiably be concerned over oils.

    The fact is that today almost any oil is way improved over what was available back in the 20`s, you will have a better chance of finding who lives on Mars than a definitive answer on "which is the best oil". Choose a quality brand 20w40 (assuming you`re not in an extreme climate environment), change it regularly and worry about the important things in life.