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Everything posted by hchris

  1. PHD - your summary is technically correct re increasing fuel pressure to reduce vaporisation, however, those of us with vac.tank vehicles should be aware that our fuel systems were designed to run on 0.5psi delivery pressure. As the average electric pump is designed for 3-5psi you stand the chance of creating more problems than you set out to cure. Whilst there are certainly vehicles out there with inherent vaporisation problems by design, a properly maintained vac. system is quite capable of dealing with todays fuels; my own experience with a 1925 Maxwell, in summer temps well into the high 90s, using 91 octane bear this out. By all means consider the easy fix with an electric pump but just be aware you may be creating more problems than you started out with and you may still have a feed problem. CJH
  2. Just a thought, did you reassemble master cylinder internals in correct order ? How about cracking the pipe open out of the master cylinder whilst someone pushes the pedal down to at least see if you have pressure from the master cylinder ? CJH
  3. OK Dan not wanting to confuse you,I am suggesting that you either have a fuel feed problem or a vaporising problem as two seperate issues. First, and I suspect that this is most likely, you may have a fuel feed problem for a variety of reasons. The best way to check this is when the engine dies you need to immediately lift the top of the carb bowl and see what the fuel level is, ie can you identify whether the engine has stopped due to lack of fuel. To achieve this you will need to shut off the vac tank / carb tap to remove the possibility of fuel running into the carb whilst you are undertaking this task. In the event this is the problem then you obviously need to find the solution - has the vac tank got sufficient fuel ? as someone else suggested, are the vents to vac tank and filler cap clear etc.etc. Second, vaporisation - the original lines were copper tube and as you say run in close proximity to the exhaust. It is possible that these lines are vaporising but more likely that heat soak through the manifold and within the engine bay is enough to cause the fuel in the carb bowl to vaporise, the only way to prove this would be insulating the lines and maybe a heat shield for the carb. As I understand it the car runs OK on a cooler day ? this in itself would point to vaporisation, or was it just coincidence ? So first up try and establish if it is running out of fuel, if not then see if you can keep the heat off the carb and fuel line. CJH
  4. OK how about this, at the point when it dies on you, can you quickly turn off the fuel from vac tank to carb, then take the top off the carb float bowl to see if there is any ( or correct level ) fuel in the bowl. If you find little or no fuel in the bowl then you have a fuel feed problem, if on the other hand the carb bowl is full then you can start down the vaporising fuel trail. If vaporising is the issue you might consider insulating the fuel lines in some manner rather than moving the vac tank. For what its worth I have a 25 Maxwell with vac tank directly above the exhaust manifold & I have yet to experience vaporising problems. CJH
  5. Can anyone advise where I might purchase new / new old stock head gaskets for Dodge 4 ? Thanks in advance CJ
  6. Helicoil definitely, easy quick repair & if you dont have the expertise any good machine shop should handle it. Heat - no way !!!!!! 313
  7. Yesiree dwell is all about how long the points are closed before the cam moves to open them again which of course will be influenced by how much gap you make. Small gap - points open late close early - large dwell Large gap - well you can work it out ch
  8. Unfortunately you will be bugged with this debris for quite a while yet, why not put a filter in the upper radiator hose to catch the muck and just pull it out every so often to clear it, even one of her stockings will do the trick. ch
  9. Thanks TG good to have another source to verify
  10. Almost anything from 50s era - certainly Mopar types
  11. Hi Tom As you have probably gathered theres not a lot of help to be gained at this site for us later model Maxwell owners,here it seems they were all magneto ignition to the end which I would guess was typical for the exports Here are some numbers passed on to me some years back, I cant verify the authenticity of them however they seem to work for those Maxwells around me here in Aus: 1923 to 1924 388531 - 442331 1924 to 1925 442331 - 492825 1925 to end 492825 - 552534 Chris H
  12. OK best to get all the dramas over in one outing, cant help with the bulbs sorry
  13. If I can make a small sidestep here - my Maxwell Vac tank has vacuum drawn from the oil pump, the advantage there is that if you run out of oil you will also run out of fuel, also it doesnt matter how many hills you climb or how wide open the throttle is the vacuum supply is always there. Forward thinking ? chris h
  14. So you have the link fitted between the throttle shaft and pump lever, when you open the throttle the pump lever is drawn down ? You have the spring fitted around the pump plunger shaft inside the carb so that it holds the plunger up when at rest ? You have the throttle/pump link in the hole furthest from the throttle shaft for longest stroke ? and when you open the throttle shaft there is no fuel squirting into the carb throat - have I got this right ?
  15. Did you put the 2 check balls back in the right place ? These allow fuel to be drawn into the accelerator pump on closing throttle and to be discharged on opening throttle Without them the accel.pump wont do its job, you could also have rolled the leather pump bucket when installing it I take it you cant see fuel being discharged into the carb throat when you operate the throttle linkage ?
  16. Great going - just remembered another trap, when you reassemble the apply links that go around the bands you will see a small approx.1 inch spacer which is part of the mechanism that puts pressure on the bands. I found this spacer wasnt exactly square - that is one side is slightly longer than the other, consequently when I came to slide the drums through the bands it woulndt go - took me ages to work out that turning the spacer 90 degrees eased the band apart so as the drum/s would slide into position thru the bands. Probably this wont make a lot of sense unless you have a trans dismantled in front of you, I might add that nowhere is this mentioned in the service manual. Just to finish I have run my trans on Dextron 111 trans fluid for over 15 years and have not encountered any problems. 313
  17. By all means have a go they are a very simple trans to work on and anybody with basic mechanical knowledge and a good service manual should be able to strip and repair. Just a warning when you remove the valve body assembly do it with the trans upside down, that is work at it from the pan side up, reason being there are a couple of little ball check valves in the body and they will drop out if you have it other way up, you need to remember where they go when reassembling so take a photo or make a sketch as it comes apart. Good luck
  18. Can anybody help with the Neutral start safety switch used in the Powerflite auto trans circa mid 50s. Installed in my 1957 Australian built Chrysler Royal, based on the 53-55 Plymouth but using some of the 55-56 running gear. I have tried Bernbaum and a few other places over there without success and cant find them down under. They are different to Torqueflite switch Any help appreciated hchris
  19. Can anybody help with the Neutral start safety switch used in the Powerflite auto trans circa mid 50s. Installed in my 1957 Australian built Chrysler Royal, based on the 53-55 Plymouth but using some of the 55-56 running gear. I have tried Bernbaum and a few other places over there without success and cant find them down under. They are different to Torqueflite switch Any help appreciated hchris
  20. Thanks Bill I have been trying to find the sales order for my car (without success) which I am sure stated it as 1957 delivery,therefore a 1958 engine would make this record somewhat dubious. However as the introduction of a V8 powered Royal was a rushed decision I would not put too much faith in the integrity of these records. Thanks Chris H
  21. OK thanks Rusty sounds like a bad case of swings and roundabouts Chris H
  22. Hi Bill-W just to add another dimension to the 313, we used this engine down here for the locally produced Chrysler Royal 1957 - 1959; 1960 saw the introduction of the 318. What info, if any, can you shed on this family group ? My 313 engine number starts with LV, another titbit is that the original hand book, supplied with the car, specified engine capacity as 303ci and then a correction to 313ci was pasted over the top of it. Many thanks - Chris H