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Everything posted by hchris

  1. OK I`m thinking float level setting ? choke sticking on the rich side ? incorrect gasket blocking a vacuum port ? just to begin with. Are you able to beg / borrow a similar carb to fit and see if the problem still exists ?
  2. Black soot ? Have you considered there may be a mixture problem ?
  3. Can you define your particular fouling, are the plugs sooted up, are they wet, in other words can you be a little more precise in what you are experiencing, what colour are the plug tips when removed ? Depending on what symptoms you have, there is a chance that the problem is not with the plugs at all.
  4. You missed a couple of cylinders..... OK so fill in the gaps for him
  5. Still confused ? Try this, hand turn the engine and establish number one cylinder at top of compression stroke - either by the timing marks on the front pullies, or finger over the spark plug hole feeling the pressure as piston comes to the top. Whilst turning the engine ( with distributor cap removed ) note the direction in which the rotor button turns. Having established number one cylinder in the correct position, fit number one spark lead to the distributor cap in line with the rotor button, now fit the remaining leads in a 1,5,3,6,2,4 sequence based on the rotor direction of travel Good Luck
  6. A good way to check for radiator internal blockage is to remove the bottom hose then put a cap of some sort over the lower outlet again and fill the radiator. Once filled remove the cap from the lower outlet and observe how the escaping water flows, if it glug,glug,glugs then this would indicate an internal blockage, if it flows freely with a rush then the radiator is clear.
  7. The pushbutton mechanism is only a means of pushing or pulling a cable to the selector lever in the transmission. Not a lot goes wrong with them and usually its a simple matter of adjustment to the cable when things go wrong, in fact you can liken it to a pushbike gear change cable. Are the other buttons doing there job ie can you select low gear and reverse ? if so then you need to get a maintenance manual ( readily available on ebay ) and just follow the instructions on cable adjustment.
  8. A word of caution, when you hone out your master cylinder you are effectively increasing its inside diameter. Now the bucket seals inside are designed to work in a cylinder of specific inner dimension which you have changed with your honing; so it stands to reason that the sealing capacity of the inner seals will be considerably reduced, along with braking performance. Resleeving the cylinder is the only way to go.
  9. Just remembered - try the Forward Look forum with this one
  10. I believe I read somewhere that Police Pursuit cars had a 200mph speedo
  11. To my knowledge all GPS are made for 12V negative earth electrics. However I am sure there is someone out there who has come up with a power converter to overcome the problem.
  12. Sure the letters arent KEW ?? that would make it the 250ci engine common to mid 50s Aus cars such as Chrysler Royal etc.
  13. In your lower photo look to see where the first spark lead passes over the joint line between block and head; there you will see a rectangular raised section on the block ( just slightly above and to the left of the round plug ). Scrape the paint off that raised surface and you will find the engine number. The engine appears not to be original as your car should have a block with half exposed water jacket on the left side of block ( these blocks changed in 1934 / 35 to the style you have installed ) The fact that it is 25in long would make it a 250 ci probably from the 50s, but you will need the engine number to make a positive id
  14. Well done that is a freaky one, not many of us would have solved it for you. I would have expected the cam gear to be at least keyed on the shaft as their is obviously quite a load as each cam lobe works against valve spring tension ? Chris H
  15. Some form of refrigeration device
  16. Maxwell doors wont help you, different pattern different size
  17. Aviation for sure, I see a mixture control in the upper photo and the air inlet scoop is designed for cold or hot air entry, this is an application to avoid carb ice in aircraft engines.
  18. Pullers were required to remove Mopar rear drums from the 30s to the 60s, it really is a matter of finding somebody who has one. Try these guys; chysler@gil.com.au they are near you.
  19. You will need a puller to remove the brake drum, where are you ?
  20. First up there are not too many cruise controls that are designed to hold speed going downhill; you are only going to find these on factory fitted top end vehicles. Most aftermarket units use a vacuum servo which connects to the throttle linkage, so any vac leaks will obviously affect uphill performance, you may also consider any lost travel in worn throttle linkages affecting uphill performance.
  21. Re the 31 Hup - its possible the electric pump is artificially keeping the carb float level high which will result in a rich mixture, so no matter what you do to the idle mixture adjustment ( and remember its only the idle mixture you can adjust ) the car will idle rich. As to the Willys - the fact that the vacuum is low is significant, it may well be that you are sucking air in somewhere in the inlet manifold system and leaning out the mixture; this will be more noticeable when you close the throttle to decelerate from highway speeds. Apart from a manifold leak you may well have a leak from any of the vacuum operated items on the car such as power brakes, windscreen wipers, vacuum retard on the distributor and so on. Lots to consider over winter !!
  22. OK try this then: 1. with distributor cap removed points closed turn the ignition on and manually move the points open; you should see a small spark across the points as you open them, do this in the shade or dark place as the spark will only be weak and you may miss it in bright light. 2. If this is successful, make sure the points are closed and put the cap back on. Loosen the distributor clamp,unplug the high tension lead from the distributor cap and hold it 1/2 inch from a good earth. With the ignition turned on move the distributor back and forth, as you do you should get a big fat spark from the high tension lead to earth. If you fail at 1. then the problem exists somewhere in the primary circuit, this could be wiring to the points; points themself or the condensor. If you fail at 2. then most likely the coil is at fault.
  23. Absolutely not in both cases, if you have no expertise in these areas you should take it to a repair facility asap; hate to hear that your new found pride and joy came to grief. As a guide, with the vehicle stationary, you should be able to move the steering wheel a maximum of one inch and see movement at the front wheels; anymore than this and you have major wear within the steering mechanism. As to the brakes it would seem from your description that there is a high probability that the brake linings are worn and with a couple of tons of car to stop thats not good.
  24. Not a Dodge expert, but most cars of this era did not have crank pulley timing marks, so you had to go through this debilitating exercise to get it right. Dont forget we are talking pre vacuum assist distributors here which were manually advanced and retarded as you drove along, so initial timing was fairly hit and miss.
  25. We are talking about the vacuum assisted clutch here not the overdrive/freewheel unit ? If so the vacuum unit fitted on the left side of the transmission was operated by a connection to the inlet manifold, similar in principle to a vacuum assist brake booster. In this case however Vacuum boost was coupled to the clutch linkage and moved the clutch in and out during a manual gear change rather than you depressing the clutch pedal by foot. There was a dash mounted cable which was used to engage or disengage the unit, similar this time to those of you who have an overdrive unit installed. So when engaged this unit would depress the clutch pedal for you as you lifted your foot off the gas pedal during gear changes and bring the pedal out as you applied the gas pedal to accelerate. The problem was it could not differentiate between you lifting your foot off the gas pedal to change gear or simply lifting your foot to slow down, hence the clutch would disengage in either situation and suddenly just when you wanted engine compression to slow you down the clutch would pedal would depress. A common expression for those using this device was to put the car into " angel gear " Certainly not exclusive to Chrysler/Dodge etc. it was found on other makes but because of the inherent dangers was only seen around 1933 / 1934. Any good repair manual from that era will have detailed information on these items.