hchris

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Everything posted by hchris

  1. Dont have specific figures for a DR engine, but most of this era started at TDC and maybe went to a maximum of 5 degrees advance. With a 4x4 I cant imagine the revs would get too high.
  2. Quoting from 70 Years of Chrysler for 1934 : " The Imperial line now had three distinct series the CV;CX;and CW - the smallest the CV with 8 cylinder 323.5ci - using the same engine was the Airflow Custom Imperial Series CX - The largest was the Airflow Custom Imperial Series CW with 384.8ci engine " Perhaps one of these are being offered?
  3. I am in the process of restoring a 1934 CB Town Sedan, apart from the above what other details are you after ?
  4. Guages - such as ammeter - will just read backwards if you changed the polarity, swap the connections and they will read whichever way you want.
  5. hchris

    Distributor

    And then halve it, if you are concerned with ignition timing, as the distributor rotor turns at half crankshaft speed.
  6. The only other aspect is your need to fit the now more commonly negative grounded accessory, such as a radio, becomes a bit of a hassle.
  7. hchris

    Distributor

    How many teeth on the gear ?
  8. No I dont think the valve springs would get weak on you all of a sudden, however did you take the valves / cam etc. apart ? The thought occured to me you might have reinstalled the cam one tooth out when it all went back together
  9. hchris

    Distributor

    Yes it`s normal for a distributor to be fitted with different size springs, they are designed to provide a given tension for each of the flyweights at any given rpm. The use of two different springs enhances the range of operation of the advance / retard mechanism. You will struggle to find the figures for total advance and spring tensions today, that information in most cases has long disappeared and even if you did find it, to set up your distributor needs some sophisticated machinery which again has pretty much disappeared. For average daily operations, as long as the flyweights are able to move out and be pulled back in by the springs you should be OK. Primarily those springs and flyweights will limit your total advance ( probably about 15 - 20 degrees ) at full throttle and unless you are running at those speeds it should`nt be a problem. Just keep a listening watch for pinging at highway speeds, if you encounter this you will need to retard the ignition to avoid it.
  10. Sure sounds like a vacuum leak, you need to go back and tighten every nut and bolt in the intake system, check that gaskets are all intact and the intake manifold is down tight and snug
  11. There are flexible camera devices available for looking into awkward spots, rather like a surgeons tool when operating internally. In the aviation game they are used to inspect the interior of cylinders and turbines etc. if you could get hold of one you could feed it down the tube with hook at the same time and see whats going on.
  12. Dont know about the Windsor but most of the Chrysler products of that era have a thermal fuse in back of the light switch assembly; not something you can replace ( other than changing the switch itself ). JJ is on the money, check out the floor dipper switch make sure you have power to it or go back to the lighting switch, they are prone to failure.
  13. One of the challenges of a wood frame body is to try and get the panels aligned; there are many tricks such as little shims and packers strategically placed as they did way back when. In your case the easiest way would be to play with the hinges, first have a look at the actual pivot pins to see how much wear is in them and repair as necessary, second you can actually lift the door off and reposition the hinges with a little wood working. If the problem lies within the door frame structure you could work from the inside and glue support pieces in place to get it back into shape or ultimatley take the skin off the door and start again. Frustrating - so good luck
  14. If you are talking of snaplocks, any upholsterer or canvas wear supplier should have them
  15. I cant quite grasp what you are telling us, if the cylinder you refer to is on exhaust stroke then the inlet valve should just be opening and the exhaust valve just closing as the piston reaches top dead centre. You state that both valves are closed which would indicate you are top dead centre of compression stoke, so what is making you think its on exhaust stroke ?
  16. Sorry I meant do you have a distributor to swap over, failing that a timing light should show up issues with failed centrifugal mechanism. The other thing you could try is loosen the distributor clamp bolt and rotate the distributor perhaps a 1/4" either left or right then tighten the clamp: what we are trying to establish here is that the distributor centrifugal advance is the culprit; moving it around a little may compensate for incorrect timing whilst you are at speed or it may have no effect at all. To establish whether you are moving towards advance or retard, remove the distributor cap, turn the engine in correct rotation by hand and note the direction of rotor button rotation. Now having loosened the clamp bolt if you move the distributor base in the same direction as the rotor moves you will be retarding the timing, obviously going the other way advances it. At this stage you may have to move the distributor back and forth to find the sweet spot, now take it for a drive and what we really want to know is does this have any effect on the symptoms at all ?
  17. So do you have an exchange distributor ?
  18. Yes a good possibilty, but then why do you have to drive some distance before the fault occurs. I feel that if the advance / retard mechanism was at fault the problem would be there right from the get go.
  19. OK glad to see a steady 18" on the vac guage; we really are clutching at straws now, back to fuel and ignition. I know we discussed this before and it seemed too hard, but, what about leaving the air cleaner off the carb before you get on the road, taking your tools with you and lifting the top off the carb as soon as it begins to falter and check that there actually is fuel in the carb. This is the only way I can think of to determine if adequate fuel is getting to the carb, and, knowing that you changed carbs there is not much else to look at in the fuel department. If you pass this test then back to spark, what about running a jumper lead direct from the non earth side of the battery to the ignition switch side of the coil; the terminal that doesnt go to the distributor, this should eliminate any issues with the low voltage side of the ignition. Oh and by the way what are the distributor point gap and spark plug gaps ? and another, what are the colour of the plug tips immediately after it falters ??
  20. You can save yourself a lot of time and mess by just hooking up a vacuum guage to the inlet manifold
  21. No amount of knocking ( detonation ) is good for any engine, most will tolerate some, but at higher rpm`s or loads there is a real risk of engine damage; the simple solution is to progressively retard the timing until it goes away. If there is a risk of losing performance / economy that would be a small price to pay, finding the sweet spot however is a bit of an art. Considering that in an original engine there is likely to be considerable wear in the distributor / cam drive train, this will make the timing marks somewhat unreliable, then of course you have to deal with modern fuels and their different burn rates etc. So the best approach is to experiment with different timing settings on a road that will give you a variation in engine load / speeds until you can eliminate the knocking; just bear in mind that the original manufacturers settings may not be the todays best settings.
  22. f&j you could be right, viewed from the inside there is no place for the switch mechanism. What intrigues me is the inside is sealed off, so where does the heat get in ??