42crazy

I just checked my books, I have no picture, but, it says all '57's use the same number, so, it should fit. Paul

Are you asking about the chrome piece that goes from the wheel well opening to the rear bumper ? I will check it out, Paul

I had the very same problem with my '95 RM, and I believe it was why the previous owner sold the car. It had ruined the carpet, but, no rusting had occurred yet. The rear floor would fill up with water. I drove it to Hershey, then all over the Northeast coast area 2 years ago, and when we got home, we had about 2 inches of water in the rear floor area. The problem was finally solved. The moisture collector box was not installed thru the firewall correctly. It must have been forced thru the hole, and kinked it at the bottom, thereby letting the water inside the car and not out thru the drain tube. It took a lot to fix it, but, that now is done. I wasn't the one who fixed it, so, I can't say exactly what it looked like, that's just what they told me. I had given up trying to find the problem.

I'm also in the process of getting my 100 lb. pressurized sand blaster going. It's also been sitting for years, and, sand draws moisture, so, had to clean it out. I am going to use mine outside, make a cabinet out of 4X8 sheets of plywood, 3 sides and a top, and am going to use an expanded metal floor in it so the sand can be picked up and possibly re-used. If you hang old drop cloths over the opening, most of the sand will be contained, but, you have to remember, some of it will go everywhere. Be sure to use a mask, and a hood, and, if possible, a respirator with fresh air. Air from a piston type compressor is not good, it has oil vapor in it. If you use the air, you can get a filter, which is a big expense though.

I have a pair from a '30-46S, and, I will check to see if they are the same, I would imagine they are. If I remember correctly, they are in pretty good shape, but, would need re-chroming. I will check later today.

If you're looking for the on/off switch, vacuum operated, I think I have one. Paul

Thanks for the info. My main train of thought, that if the tranny goes out, would it be best to rebuild it, and, continue to feed the 'gas hog' 401, or change it to a 200 4R, which is an Automatic Overdrive tranny, and get the advantage of lower RPM's at higher speed, and use less gas while doing it. The 401 has plenty of power to handle the overdrive. Paul

I had a thought today, is it possible to mate up a 401 to a 200 4R automatic transmission ? The 200 4R supposedly has a universal GM mounting pattern, but, how would the torque converter mount up ? Has anyone ever tried and done this successfully ? Any comments would be appreciated, thanks, Paul

I've got a couple of rare ones. Mimi, the '42 pick-up, is the only one ever built at the factory. I have a '39 model 61-A with the Sunshine Turret Top, only one I've ever found in the Century series, except for the parts car that I sold a couple of months ago. I have a '42 model 44-C, as far as I can tell, only 4 known, and one of them is now a street rod, which I used to own also, and at that time, I owned 1/2 of the total inventory. It made the cover of Rod and Custom, it's beautiful. And finally, a '42 model 46-S, Black Out model, again, the only one that I know of. If there are any more out there, I'd like to converse with the owner. Oops, almost forgot, I have a Canadian '42 model 41, I only know of one other. Thats it, I think, Paul

Does anyone happen to know if there was a '56 RM 4dht, pink and white, with a black and white interior at the show. I would like to get in touch with the owner, if he happened to be there. I owned the car once upon a time, and can't remember his name, other than Bruce something, If I remember correctly. The car won the General Managers Award at one of the earlier Flint meets, got a huge silver bowl as the award, but, the current owner doesn't know it. It is also mentioned in Buick, The Complete History, by Terry Dunham and Larry Gustin, and I would like to tell him about it. thanks, Paul

I was interested in wire wheels once upon a time, but, was told that you have to change everything but the axle itself, front and back, so, I quit looking. Also, if all you are going to do is replace the rear axle grease seal, you don't need to pull the axle out of the hub, just pull the whole thing out in one piece and replace the seal (thick felt, about 1/2 inch thick), Bob's Automobilia sells them. Paul

Do you have wood spoke wheels ? And if so, pull the rear differential cover and remove the nut that holds the axle in the spider gears. I put the whole works in a 20 ton press, applied a bit of heat, and it popped right off. The trick is keeping from bending something, I used a piece of pipe, about 8 inch by 2 foot to support the brake drum. If you don't get any other recommendations, call me, I will explain it, 314-574-9853 Paul

I think one of the 'prettiest' front ends is the '39. Very distinctive, and refined, especially the 6 wheel models. I'm also partial to the '57 RM's, they have it all over the '55 and '56, as well as the '58. I have owned or still own all these models, but, like them if I owned them or not. But, I'm going strictly on 'looks'. You can get a lemon in any of them. Paul

I used the similar procedure on my '30, which was really stuck. If you have a small gap between the bottom of the steering wheel hub, (1/8 inch) and the top of the steering column tube, I took a piece of 1/8 plate and drilled a hole in the center, the size of the steering shaft. Then I cut the piece in half. Then I took another piece of plate steel 3/8 thick, drilled a hole in it the size of the tube that goes over the steering shaft, cut in in half, then slid the 1/8 inch piece around the shaft, the 3/8 inch piece around the tube, turned them 90 degrees to each other for strength, then bolted them together, using long threaded rod, then made another 3/8 inch plate to run the threaded rods thru above the steering wheel, put the nut back on the shaft, leaving 1/16 inch space, then put a socket over the shaft, smaller than the nut, to protect the threads, and then tightened the threaded rod. One tap of a small hammer after the rods were tight, and it popped right off. Absolutely no damage to the aluminum steering wheel. Worked like a charm, and, I can send you a picture of it, if needed. It sounds complicated, but, was very easy, especially since you want to protect the aluminum hub. I don't know about a '28, but '30 has a small collar that actually covers the 1/8 gap, and that has to be moved to get to the 1/8 gap. Hope this helps, Paul

Have you ever noticed that the tank is always full when you have to remove it from the car ? I don't ever remember removing an empty one, unless it was completely rotted away, Paul

Does anyone out there know of or have a '66 425, running condition ? A fellow called me today, just blew his motor up, and is willing to buy even a whole car, wants to take the motor out and put it into his immediately ? Thanks, Paul

I'll try to figure out what year your engine is, and, I thought I recognized that number written on the valve cover, it's the firing order, Paul

If you find a '46 thru '48, I still have the parts car, a very ambitious project if you want to restore it. Paul

The dual carb system is definitely not '38, it's either '41 or '42 only. Is the number chalked on the top cover by chance the engine number ? If so, it should be easy to identify the year, Paul

Thanks, I don't remember grounding the tank when I put it on. Also, when we paint everything, how is going to get ground ? Good advise, and thanks again, Paul

I have a '57 RM 75 parts car, and, the door panels have the armrests molded into them, just like the rear doors. If you need them, they could be repaired, but, the trim is probably wrong. These have a stainless panel running from front to back about 5 inches wide, above the pull cup, so to say. I cut the lower portion of one of them off one time, but, if you are desperate, they could be used once repaired. I have repaired worse ones than these, using fibreglass resin and cloth. Thanks, Paul

I have a '58 Special 4 dr hardtop, I will have to check on the window channels though, and if you are in a big hurry, I can't help you till about the middle of Sept. Let me know if you don't find any before then, thanks, Paul

Are you looking for the power window motor ? If so, I have one that has just been restored, Paul

Whoever inquired about the cost to ship the right bumper end, and small series mustache bar, please email or call me. I have no way to get in touch with you. 314-574-9853 or 42buickman@gmail.com Thanks, Paul

Left tail light assembly is awful rough, probably should be able to find a better one elsewhere. Sorry, Paul