carbking

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi, carbking, Thanks for the expert advice. Just for our education and edification, what is your going rate for a pro-rebuild of a list member's Rochester 4CG? Another request for expert opinion. Packard used both Rochester and Carter 4-bbls on the '55 and '56 V8s. Which do you like better and why? Might as well throw in how much to rebuild the Carter also. TIA. jv. </div></div> Jack - unfortunately, our backlog is at that point where we are no longer accepting customer units for rebuilding. Too busy trying to make parts to keep the old cars running with the new fuels. As to the Rochester vs Carter? Both are excellent examples of 1950's 4 barrel technology. What does this mean? In my opinion, both of these units are not quite so technologically advanced as the newer Carter AFB and Rochester Q-Jets; however they are more reliable than either, and much more reliable than the new (1985 up) production AFB's and clones. Either, properly rebuilt, will do a MUCH BETTER job than anything currently available (unless one has the wherewithall to modify the new unit, and MUCH modification will be required). If one is touring where different altitudes or different fuels are likely to be encountered, then the Carter has an edge, as one can machine different metering rods for different altitudes and ethanol, and easily change as necessary. Given local driving, the Rochester will perform as well as the Carter. As to a professional rebuild: the "addicted" hobbyist may do a BETTER job of rebuilding than the lower cost professionals (after all, its his car!). Excellent rebuilding kits are available to the hobbyist; and often the lower cost professionals will use lesser kits to compete on costs. For the true "money is no object" restoration, the professional will normally do a better job, but this will depend on the individual professional and the individual hobbyist. I would suggest most using this board should do their rebuilding, using the resources on the board for assistance, if necessary. Jon.

Going to do a little guessing on this one. First, the accelerator pump is NOT going to cause rough running at cruise. It is possible that omitting the pump discharge check spring (the spring between the ball and the "T" retainer) could cause rough running, but it would be extremely rich; you would be unable to see behind you due to black smoke. From your symptoms, which keep changing, I am guessing that you disturbed the "crud" located in the fuel lines when they were loosened to remove the carburetor; and you now have distributed a new batch of crud in the carburetor. At this point in time I would suggest careful disassembly of the carburetor and recleaning. At this point, I would check the float level setting in the carburetor carefully, as well as the float drop. You should not need another rebuilding kit. Just be careful not to tear any of the gaskets. The compressed air through the passageways is good (just wear eye and ear protection). Once you have reassembled the carb, place a good modern inline filter (this will be temporary) right at the carburetor to protect it from additional crud. If you live in an area that recently went to ethanol, this is to be expected; as the ethanol WILL clean the crud and move it forward. We recommend also placing an inline filter before the fuel pump to protect the pump, and carry a couple of spares in the glove box. When the car starts to give problems, change the inline filter. I got sufficiently proficient to change one in less than a minute (practice). If this turns out to be the problem, the good news is, eventually (we went through 9 filters on one car first) all the crud will be removed by the filters. Once you have driven a few months without changing the filter, it may be removed. Jon.

Rollie - you are certainly welcome. Let us know how the '37 runs with the newer carb. Jon.

It should work fine, just don't allow raw exhaust to the carburetor (heated air only). Jon.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">thank you for the info. on that. i did get an answer from vintagespeed.com and this is what he told me. '55 thru '60 are the same '61 thru '64 and '65 are the same '66 thru '79 are the same </div></div> Not that it will matter in your case, but 1961 through 1965 ARE NOT the same. Also, 1966 through 1979 ARE NOT the same. The head design changed in 1965, thus while 1961-1964 will interchange, 1965 will NOT interchange in this group. 1965 through 1979 CAN BE MADE TO INTERCHANGE; however, there are problems with the heat crossover beginning with (I think) 1972. However, lots of both aftermarket and O.E. stuff to fit your 1955. Here are a couple of pictures: Edelbrock P-303 Offenhauser 5028 Jon.

1955 through 1960 manifolds will fit the 1955 cylinder heads. Newer cylinder heads will fit the block, thus allowing newer manifolds to fit (provided the cylinder heads are also changed). Lots of selection available in the 1955~1960 manifolds without having to change the heads. Jon.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello all, just a note to tell you I have been "MONKEYING" with both the 4-GC and the 2-GC on my Olds cars and have found that you MUST get the carb to behave before you can adjust the slim jim. Most of all on both carbs, the fuel must cover the jets completely when you pull the top of the carb off. I wish there was a fuel level mark in the bowl. When I used the shop manual settings I had insufficient fuel levels to maintain smooth operation under all conditions. Once I made sure the bowls remained about half full 1/8" to 1/4" above the top of the jets every thing settled down. I found this to be true with both carbs. I hope this helps you some. Good luck, Dave </div></div> Dave - some of the Rochester carbs take the measurement to the seam of the float, not the distance from the float to the airhorn. Also, late production 1961 two barrels got a change in float dimension that would not be in the shop manual. Jon.

As far as I am aware, Zenith is the only company still in business producing updraft carburetors. There are a number of companies who have built universal (and sometimes specific) replacement carburetors over the years. In my opinion, the better ones are: Zenith (63, 263 series - obsolete) (9.5 scale 1 - 10)(price reasonable, parts reasonable) Stromberg (SF, SFM series - obsolete) (9.5 scale 1 - 10) (price reasonable, parts expensive) Carter (BB updraft series - obsolete) (9 scale 1 - 10) (price very expensive, parts reasonable) Zenith (68, 267 series - current) (6 scale 1 - 10) (price inexpensive, parts inexpensive) Sizes: S.A.E. size 1 and 2 (all of the above) S.A.E. size 3 (Zenith 63, 263; Stromberg SF, SFM series; Carter BB updraft) S.A.E. size 4 and 5 (Zenith 63, 263 series; Stromberg SF, SFM series) Caviats: Both the Zenith 63 and Stromberg SF series had some use on stationary engines (no power circuit, no pump circuit). This is also true of the current production Zenith units. Many individuals prefer to have these circuits present. The Carter had many original uses. To be really useful, one should have the extended throttle shafts and externally adjustable main metering jet (or be calibrated for a specific application by a professional). Most newer carburetors are designed to be used with a fuel pump (pressure). If one applies one of these to a vehicle which is gravity feed, one needs to modify the fuel inlet valve in the carburetor. Over the years, we have sold several hundred of the above units; so have quite a bit of experience with them. There were other companies producing replacement carburetors. We have a listing somewhere of about 500 different carburetor companies; but the above would be our recommendations. Jon.

Cannot help with the automatic trans problem. Personally have never found a good use for these; as they are too heavy for paper weights and an inefficient shape for a boat anchor <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> As to the 4GC, a very fine example of an early 4-barrel carburetor. These carbs are virtually "bullet-proof". As mentioned, the throttle body to bowl gasket is one that needs to be correct for the specific carburetor (by tag number). Rochester used the cut-outs (on some models) to control hot idle vapors (internal pressure) which builds in this area of the carburetor during city driving and idling. Especially critical with modern fuel (and ethanol), as vapor pressure is MUCH higher than it used to be. Some of the generic kits are simply best avoided. Jon.

The three line filter is a "modern" convenience that was designed to help prevent vapor lock in air conditioned modern vehicles. Many different varieties are available at your local auto parts store. Find a store with a "buyers guide" and acquire the filter that will best fit your needs. As to instructions: (A) line in (from fuel pump) ( line out (to carburetor) © restricted, or vapor line out (run NEW line from this to dump into fuel tank). As mentioned by others, a non-sealing fuel pump could also cause you problems, but your post mentions this only occurs when very hot at low RPM, which is why my guess is vapor lock. Jon.

There are three different main configurations (different bodies) and MANY different UUR-2 carburetors. These are not necessarily interchangeable. While any UUR-2 carb is difficult to find, best to attempt to find at least the proper configuration rather than try to modify the wrong one. Jon.

Sounds like vapor-lock. Adding a three-line filter at the carburetor, and running a return line back to the tank allows the fuel pump to continuously pump, and keeps vapor out of the line. Jon.

When setting an automatic choke, the following procedure may be used: (A) the choke must be adjusted with a cold engine. ( choke is calibrated for adjustment at 68 degrees F., but an ambient of 65~70 is close enough © remove the air cleaner. (D) push the footfeed to the floor once, and then release. This initiates the choke linkage. (E) have a helper open the throttle of the carburetor approximately half way, and hold. (F) loosen the choke cover retainers (integral choke). (G) rotate the choke cover such that the choke butterfly opens. (H) rotate the choke cover in the opposite direction, until the butterfly just touches closed. (I) tighten the choke cover retainers. (J) helper may now release the throttle. If the choke adjustment is checked when the ambient is outside the 65~70 degree F. range; the choke butterfly will be somewhat open if the temperature is more, or closed with tension if the temperature is less. Jon.

If NTX4567 guessed correctly, and you have the e-clones; probably best to find a Chevy dude to swap the e-clones, and try to find the proper carb for your Buick. Jon.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello, I bought from Westwood a can of spray that supposedly is for carburetors but the color does not match the original. Does anyone know where I can find the correct color? Thanks </div></div> In 1953 Oldsmobile used both Carter and Rochester carburetors. For the Rochester, the zinc alloy parts would have been "chromated", a chemical process which etches the metal for oxidation protection leaving a "greenish-goldish" finish. The steel pieces would have been electro-plated with yellow zinc. The active ingredient in the "chromate" mix is chromic acid, a carcinogen, which is not available to the hobbyist. The castings, if chromated, must be sent to a "metal-laundry" company. For the Carter, the zinc alloy parts would have been chromated. The steel pieces would have been electro-plated. Carter used white zinc, yellow zinc, white cadmium, and yellow cadmium for plating; however the majority was white zinc. Carters with cast-iron throttle bodies had the cast iron painted with a proprietary paint which was about a 60 percent gloss. Other manufacturers (in this time period) did not paint the cast iron. Jon.

You might want to check these numbers, as neither appear as assigned numbers in the Carter literature. 3503s is a Buick carb. Jon.

Good to have another older vehicle on the road. Congratulations!. Jon.

Often a backfire through the carburetor indicates other problems (sticking intake valve, carbon track in distributor, etc.). You mentioned a tune-up was done. How extensive was the tune-up? I would suggest beginning with a compression check. If compression is good, I would then revisit the tuneup from a "testing" standpoint. Find someone locally who can hook up a diagnostic scope to the ignition; and observe the firing voltages at the plugs, as well as the overall condition of the ignition system (a defective spark plug wire will cause a carburetor backfire). If both the compression and ignition test good, then check the fuel delivery system (a partially clogged fuel filter can cause a carburetor backfire, and could also cause the engine to not run long). Also check the vent on the fuel tank to make sure it is open. The next step would then be the carburetor. The idle mixture control screws should be approximately 1 full (360 degree) turn out from lightly seated. Fast idle and idle RPM should be adjusted to the specification given in your owners manual. If the vehicle has been sitting without running for a long period of time, the carburetor may be stopped up with residue from evaporating modern fuel (this normally causes a backfire through the exhaust) and may need to come apart, cleaned, and reassembled with a repair kit. My guess is you will solve the problem before you get to the carburetor. Jon.

Rochester carburetors produced prior to the 1968 model year are easily identified by tag only. The Clean Air Act 1966 Amendment (covering automobile emissions) took effect with the 1968 model year. As the carburetor is considered to be a part of the emissions system, it became necessary for positive identification, in order to be able to detect "tampering". Thus 1968 and newer Rochesters are "roll stamped" with the identification number. The 2 barrels carbs are stamped horizontally on the bowl (center section) on the side opposite the throttle arm. Positive identification of Rochesters built prior to 1968 is very difficult at best if the tag is missing. One item to look for is that factory tripower END carburetors would have no idle mixture control screws, and the throttle body would not be machined for idle mixture control screws. Jon.

Very difficult to send you an email when your email address is not listed in your profile. Jon.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Steve, All the Penberthy Ball and Ball carbs that I have and have seen are brass. Joel </div></div> The early Penberthy carbs were brass; the later ones zinc alloy (pot metal). Quite rare to find a zinc alloy Penberthy that is still intact, but they were produced. Jon.

There are no aftermarket carbs which are direct replacements; ie the e-clone mentioned by others in this thread has a different size air intake, and would require a different air cleaner; not to mention MAJOR calibration changes would be required. Much better to keep the original factory carb unless you have made other major performance changes to the engine. The Carter AFB is probably the easiest of all 4 barrel carburetors to rebuild. My suggestion would be acquire the factory shop manual and a good carburetor rebuilding kit; and do it yourself. If you have never rebuilt a carburetor, find a local friend who has, and do it together. TIP - read the carburetor section in the manual before you disassemble the carburetor. The only caviat is to remember that the very last parts you put back are the metering rods. Jon.

4 1/2 pounds is within the range specified by the manufacturer; however, with the vapor pressure of modern fuel, the fuel pressure may expand to much more than the 4 1/2 pounds when driving. If the carburetor is the culprit, visually check the fuel valve and fuel valve seat. Also, the brass float is easy to test by submerging in hot water. The hot water will pressurize the air in the float, causing a stream of bubbles at any leak. Also, an engine with a PERFECT fuel system will blow black smoke, have sooty plugs and tailpipe, and deliver poor mileage if ignition problems exist. Two components of the ignition system often overlooked are plug wires and coil. Jon.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does anyone know what the market is like for a Toyota Corona that runs. Someone could fix it up and it would be in great shape with little effort. I just need to sell it and don't know how to go about it. Does it apeal to classic buyers or is it junk? Anyone with some info please let me know what I should do. </div></div> Doubt that it would appeal to a large number of "classic" buyers, but the standard transmission versions would average 35 plus MPG on 85 octane fuel. That might appeal to someone! The automatics were basically Chevy powerslides (toyoglide), and still would average 26 or so MPG. Jon.

Probably the reason The Carburetor Shop did not suggest an alternative is insufficient or conflicting information was given, or the question was not asked. What is the application for the Continental 11E? All of the information in our files suggests that the Stromberg used on the Continental 11E was a cross-flange carburetor (TX-2). There are no records in the existing (mostly complete) Stromberg files suggesting that a T-2 was used on the Continental 11E; however, there are a few holes in the files. Replacing a T-2 is quite easy, as there are a number of universal units which may be used, in different qualities and different price ranges. Replacing a TX-2 with a more modern carburetor is often quite difficult; as the more modern units are a straight-flange carburetor, thus requiring a cross-flange adapter. Often the space required for the cross-flange adapter will cause a physical interference. Generally, the best replacement (albeit expensive) for the TX-2 is the earlier brass OX-2. One simply must calibrate the OX-2 to duplicate the calibration in the TX-2. Jon.