Dan O

I am sure this black paint has been sprayed on many a member's car over the years. Does anyone already have the source for the proper formula to replicate "correct" the factory Carlsbad Black? I am no paint pro but I would suppose it's different for two-stage paint from single stage? I know the gloss will be different. I am looking to apply this to just my firewall and steering column right now. The rest of the car will come later. It appears to me those engine compartment areas are the same as the exterior paint from factory.

Buick man - Your advice and admonitions are appreciated - best yet . What I failed to mention is this engine has a cracked water jacket and is not going to be used as-is if ever at all. So our cowboy-gorilla methods did the trick for freeing the transmission in this particular instance. - The Caveman formerly known as Dan O

My '49 had woven cotton belting as cushions top and bottom between metal strap and tank and between tank and body. I bought some woven cotton belting material like you use in military belts with the brass slip-buckle. It comes in colors by the yard on Amazon. Seems like the factory material.

THANKS for the replies - broke the engine free this morning using a block of wood and a sledge hammer on the stuck piston. Next I am headed to Ft Worth to get that baby rebuilt.

We have pulled 320 motor and Dynaflow tranny from my 1949 76S and are now trying to get the transmission off of the engine but can't get to one last bolt because the engine is apparently frozen. I don't think it could be rust as a culprit until the last three months or so as it was dry before that. Any ideas on turning the engine to get to that last bolt? The head is off so it's not compression. Shot some penetrating oil in the cylinders last night. Going to try and hook up the starter again and see if that works to break it free. Does anyone have any sage advice on a method to break it free or get the off the last bolt from flywheel that cannot now be reached?

Autonut - I am sure many will be able to help answer your questions as the '49 is a popular year and there are many on this board that know the car better than I do. The manifolds are problematic and do crack. Reproductions are available but not in ready supply. They do leak when cold and that's just part of the design. I believe they were split due to the extreme length and weight and likelihood of breaking if they were one long unit. I don't believe there is any interchange for the Buick with the Packard Eight manifold or any other make - it is unique in my experience. Do you have any pictures of your new baby? Please post!

I see they have parts for series 40 cars but none for Supers r Roadmasters on their site. https://www.c2cfabrication.com/pages/search-results-page?q=1949+buick+

I noticed some replacement floorpans for 1941 1942 1946-1949 BUICK CADILLAC on Etsy offered by SE Michigan Automotive. They are made from 18 gauge steel and are pressed metal. Is this thick enough? Has anyone dealt with this company before? The price seems OK I guess at $76 including shipping per side and their online reviews are decent. Comments? https://www.etsy.com/listing/449055678/1941-1942-1946-1949-buick-cadillac?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=1949+buick&ref=sr_gallery-1-11&organic_search_click=1&frs=1

37_RC - that does seem like a lot of load for those valve cover bolt holes. Thanks for the info!

I am in the process of removing the old 320 engine from my '49 76S and replacing it with a rebuilt '50. I have read some posts on lift points but still need some advice on what the proper lift points might be for this behemoth. I suppose fore and aft head bolts could be removed and those could be used however there are two smaller un-used bolt holes in the head - are those suitable? They look small. The engine has manifolds on it so it is off-balance - does anyone have an idea (or photo!) on how to design a lift-bracket so the engine would not roll off to one side? Engine is in a shop now that can fabricate something and has proper lifts but if anyone has been here before I would greatly appreciate your advice!

Pete O. - thanks so much for the perfect info! I ordered it from Buick Farm just now.

I purchased a 1950 320 engine without pulley or radiator fan to install in my '49 76S. I was planning on just using the fan and pulley from the original 1949 320 engine. The old pulley fits on the '50, which is on a stand, but I can't check the fan clearance for a couple of weeks. Does the 1950 engine require a spacer between pulley and fan like a 1951 320 engine uses? If so, anyone have a source for the spacer?

Thanks for looking, Pete. I might just have the wrong fitting in there but damned if I know where it came from. Maybe the 4-holers are different somehow.

Ben - not young, perhaps even older than you! But I probably mis-quoted him on the purpose of the hole in the thermostat.

I was told by my mechanic this week that 160 or 180 does not make a lot of difference BUT he did say the better thermostats these days have a little hole drilled in them to allow a gradual flow of water rather than a burst on opening. He said he would drill a hole in mine if it did not have one in the Superstat. He's got it on a dyno right now!

Selim - your second photo is correct. The chrome molding should show like this. It is a continuous strip around the tops of doors and around the "top" of the body.

I am trying to hookup vacuum lines etc. on a rebuilt 320 for my 1949 Roadmaster and need a favor. My vacuum line from the fuel pump goes to the intake manifold brass fitting in front of the carb BUT the fitting is two-sided (has two outlets/inlets - like a T) - there should be a second vacuum line that goes somewhere towards the head it appears. It's been awhile since I took it apart and memory is not providing the answer. My shop manual is not helping and I cannot find anything online. Seems like nobody thinks the left side is photogenic! Did I somehow get the wrong fitting? Where does this phantom second line go to? The wipers' vacuum is supplied from the fuel pump vacuum alone, right?

Bill - Perhaps so. What did you use? I have found some vintage wound stainless steel bicycle cable housings that look nice. A bit more shiny than stock but I'm not going for any awards. I am trying to find out lengths from Nashbar and get a better look. https://www.nashbar.com/clarks-stainless-steel-universal-derailleur-cable-w6082/p336474

Need to replace my air vent cables under hood on a 1949 Buick and do not see a source online readily. Does anyone have a recommendation? Tried Bob's CARS, Fusick.

Carlisle1926 had one he was parting out:

JD Barlow - Don't buy the solid metal tool - it is not going to work - at least not on a '49. The pliers work great. Approach handle from the inside of the crank handle (you will feel the tool set when it grips in place), squeeze and gently pull the handle off the spindle with your other hand. Surprisingly smooth removal. The manual shows what's going on so refer to that first for a mental picture. But if you are sure you have the clip off then apply WD-40 and wait 24 hours. Tap it with a hammer to loosen rust. Use the slide hammer idea. Use heat from a propane torch as a last resort if you have a replacement handle. You must have some serious rust if the clip is actually off - does not sound right. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BC082/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the advice. It's being re-cored and should be better than new. I just find it hard to believe radiator work is so expensive now.

I learned my radiator is not repairable but rebuildable for over $900 - will look original. Anyone have a source for new replica aluminum radiators? I can't find one after a quick search on google and eBay. Nice original?

Bedford cord - try SMS Auto Fabrics in Washington State. https://smsautofabrics.com/ FYI - They will make the grab-straps or pull handles that mount on the vertical pillars.

I finally just hauled the 1950 320 engine over to Scott-Day paint supply here in Houston in a U-Haul trailer. Peggy and Tony were kind enough to match the original color found under the motor mounts, starter area, etc. perfectly, in my opinion. They can supply paint to you if you want - 713/981-4187. I have painted the engine and am reassembling components to have it tested by Eaton Balancing in Lorena, TX prior to putting it in my 76S. 2020 has been an awful year so far for the world but perhaps it will a good one for the old Buick. Here are a couple of progress pictures for you.