Dan O

Congratulations! Not sure if you has anyone look at it but there is a transmission in the trunk, rubber coated gas tank and repainted (rebuilt) radiator in the engine compartment. Floor boards seem solid from eye-balling them. I need a trunk lid and right rear fender for my 76S if you decide to part it out. Rear glass is on eBay occasionally. I know the windshield glass is available. No line on an engine.

LeBaron Bonney should have the seat covers, carpet, kick panels, etc. for the convertible. Putt Georgi, Ltd. makes the best fitting tops I have been told by the guys at Classic Cars of Houston - email Putt Georgi regarding the ARO 2000 tops at onlinesales@frontier.com. Website: http://www.aro2000.com/putt_georgi_ltd.htm

Yes, I went up to look at the green machine as I live nearby. I am glad Pete got it as we all know he wanted one. I did not bid but the sheet metal is nice and the chrome is not bent and it has the rear fender spears! Pete - I do need a right rear fender and a trunklid if you have any extras.

I went to a resto shop yesterday in Tomball, Texas and the owner was showing me some run-of-the-mill '66 Mustang and boring 1971 pickup in his shop. The owners had spent $85K to restore the Mustang to stock. The pickup owner slammed a 427 in the pickup and had over $100k in the labor and parts. SOOOO, $35k+ for this Buick looks reasonable!

Curious to see the final price. I have never seen one go for this much before.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-Buick-Roadmaster/273684430339?hash=item3fb8dcfe03:g:gLkAAOSw76JcV0ib:rk:1:pf:1&vxp=mtr&frcectupt=true Not my car but you don't see nice completely restored models like this often. That interior looks orig but then again there is no leather trim or gangster stripes on the upholstrey

Here are some other photos of my top. It was crushed by the (*&^%# shipper.

Gary - I looked quickly at my top late afternoon. It was getting dark but there is a metal strip that is attached to the entire length of the rear wooden bow and the twist fasteners are screwed into the metal strip. The metal strip is flexible to some degree. It is concealed on the outside by the thin strip of the top material over the rear window. I am not sure where you would get one but I would imagine one could be cut easily if you had a pattern.

I'm not exactly sure what your request is. I have one and can compare can you be more specific? Do you just want some better photos?

I think Bob's Automobila in California has many of these items. http://bobsautomobilia.com/

Just curious if there are any convertible 49's in Houston area and how many might still exist in general.

How would I access a registry for Buicks? Does the BCCA have one online or anyone else? Need I be a paying member? Looking for existing 1949 Roadmasters and there whereabouts.

Hello - for a 1949 Buick Roadmaster Sedanette: rear trunk lid without major dents; rear fender chrome trim - not sweep spear; radio antenna control knob (entire or just the little insert with the arrow on it if in gray color) - mounts above rear view mirror.; in engine compartment - metal spring-clip that hold two water hoses onto passenger side inner fender (above battery); factory correct jack. If you have a hood ornament with great chrome I'd be interested to see a photo. Let me see what you have and your prices, please. Thanks and Happy New Year!

I always wanted a JC Whitney water injector because, yes, my little fuel injected 1972 2002tii did run better on foggy days, WAY better. Little champ just zoomed with damp intake. AND I used to get water in a tank of gas fairly regularly in the late 1970's for some reason and would cure the problem by just pouring in an entire bottle of rubbing alcohol to break up the water and run it thru the carb. It worked and was a lot easier than draining the tank. And yes, Techron does help clean the injectors and SeaFoam, and Purple Magic and MMO and I'll probably blow some dough on K-100. I think all these makers figure some dude with an extra $10 will spring for a bottle!

Thanks for the information! Sounds like more fun but I am in Nybro area so that would be quite a drive for me. You Swedes definitely make the most of your summer time. I wish we had as many fun meets in Texas as often as you do.

Here are some Buicks finally. These showed up on Fajestad Thursday, 7-27-2017 . All convertibles except the one. Takk sa mikka!

Thank you all - Swedes are definitely crazy for old American cars! There is one behind every corner it seems. I will make it to Gullabo this Wednesday but I leave on the 3rd for Texas and the heat. I am headed to Visby for a couple of days. I saw a yellow convertible Citroen D-20 cruising around there four years ago. It's probably one of ten in existence.

I see we have more than one or two Swedish members on the board. Don Tomaso gave me good info on a show I attended in Farjestaden yesterday and another next Wednesday in Gullabo and I thank him here again for the tips. Is there anything else in southern Sweden (Smaland) I should see while here? I did see a 1950 Roadmaster 4-door sedan in primer cruising by and a 1968(?) Riviera custom in silver and black yesterday. There were a lot of people at the show by the harbor and over 100 cars, both US and Euro production. There was a hot rod 1970's Saab that sounded like an angry bumble bee that was a kick. Beautiful weather! Here are some random shots and a video IMG_8961.MOV

I got the carb back on the car after acquiring a new glass fuel filter bowl from Bob's - I dropped mine. So, I ran fuel into the line and carb with my handy dandy electric priming pump, gave it a crank, wouldn't go right away, so I shot in some starting fluid and she started running. Smoothly! Turned it off after a five minutes and she cranked back up with no problem. I repeated that as I messed with the filter bowl drips and she kept firing up and running smooth. Did not need to depress the throttle first even. The carb no longer overflows. Runs at slow idle and sounds great. Now I see the problem all along - needed a new glass filter bowl!! (That's a joke). The mechanic had said he saw no debris in the carb and all settings were fine. Perhaps it was something small he did not see and it's gone. Perhaps it will strike again after a short drive. I have not had time to venture out. Tomorrow is the Keels & Wheels boat and car show in Houston. It is a really fine show and not to be missed so it will be a great day and old car driving will have to wait until Sunday. Thanks for all the tips and discussion!

Update - I checked the fuel pressure thru the glass bowl filter and it is 3.75psi so that is ok. My carb rebuilder opened it up again to check his work and found no foreign particles in the carburetor and settings to specs.. He also says he pressured it up to 6psi with an electric pump and did not see any leakage so I will put it back on and see what happens. This is a new kit put on in the last two months and a low mileage car (believe it or not). The mechanic has a good reputation for rebuilding early engines - that's his specialty and all does in his shop but he could be overlooking something. I want to see what the leak does after the carb goes back on. He has offered to look at the whole car if I tow it across Houston to him.

Knocked it around prior to starting. No change. Tapped it more all around while running. No change. Back to the mechanic tomorrow. I hate old cars sometimes.

Gentlemen - THANKS for all your generous input! This morning I: cleaned the points, checked the gap, checked integrity of all wires from the new coil to the distributor as well as inside, plus the plug wires. Cranked it up with three pumps of the gas pedal and she cranked up. That's what she usually does when cold. Idled smoothly as my hopes rose then started running rough again. I can keep it running if I keep the gas coming at high idle and goose it around when needed. Crap. So, I closed the hood and went around to open it from the other side where I cleaned the idle adjustment screw passages and replaced with the same settings as before. I also tightened all the carb screws as I see it's been leaking when running. This has a new Bob's Automobilia kit put in by a pro mechanic. I then restart and get the same results as before. BUT I can watch the carb better from driver's side and notice as she starts to stall out, gasoline starts pushing out from the gasket between the air horn and the bowl cover. It pushes/seeps out so much it runs off the bowl cover and down the sides. I killed it, checked the screws (all tight) and tried starting again and watched gasoline come out of the gasket as well as the pivot hole. I think the carb needs to go back to the mechanic at this point myself as I am not any kind of a carb mechanic. Any ideas on the cause of the gas gush? Is this my problem? No one has commented on the intake manifold leak idea. Here's a video attached with sound of the final crank up! IMG_8130.MOV

I cranked up my '49 Roadmaster yesterday after sitting 3 weeks and she started and ran fine. I'd had a nice 20 mile run around Houston with no problems. But last short drive It had been stalling on me for some reason so I let it warm up in the garage to observe. After 5-10 minutes the idle descended as it should but kept going until it just stalled out. Tried to start again to no avail so I just left it to come back to the next morning. Next morning I went back to storage with the idea of cranking her up and driving 5 minutes to my house - ran well, drove home and right before the driveway she died and coasted into the drive (whew). I got out, raised the hood, shot in some starting fluid, engaged the pedal/ignition and got nothing at all. It was like the switch was off. Let cool down 20 minutes and it cranked up enough to get all the way in the drive but now it runs really rough. Any ideas? It has had a carb rebuild by a pro, new plugs and wires, points, condenser, good tested voltage regulator, tested generator; The fuel filter at tank I added is clear, fuel filter bowl at carb is clean and shows gas flow, fuel should be no more than three weeks old. It does have the original wiring harness but the generator, voltage regulator wires are testing good for continuity and not shorting. It does have a leak around the next to rear exhaust manifold port and a crack in the center section of the exhaust manifold. And some of the nuts were loose. I tightened them up this morning, started and it still ran rough, shot starting fluid on the intake manifold ports while idling (roughly) and heard no difference in idle so I don't think there is an intake leak but I may be wrong. I am going to loosen the manifold nuts and re-torque tomorrow if the weather holds. Any ideas, thoughts besides tow it to a good shop? Magic tricks?

I know a lot has been posted online regarding original or correct engine colors on this forum. But I thought I'd throw in some more info and some photos of my original color I just located while pulling off my plug cover. I have always seen 1949 Buick engines in a light approximately sky-blue. I also have seen many in green. I have asked about this before on this forum and was told the greenish turquoise was correct by Pete Philips, I believe, who has an original in his collection. Someone (Bill Stoneberg?) also sent me a color chip that I cannot locate anymore for the engine color. I bought some of the greenish turquoise engine paint from CARS and had a question about reducing it. They could not help but told me they got it from Hirsch automotive. Hirsch was helpful and asked Bill Hirsch why so many 1949 Buick engines are in the blue paint and not the green he supplies. He checked around and said there was an article in the Buick Bugle many years ago discussing this change and it was determined a certain supplier had incorrectly put out a particular blue as original. It was not the right color at all but it took off from there. He says the greenish turquoise he supplies is the original. Anyway, I went to work with the paint from CARS on my 76S engine. It did not look right to me but I was told it was correct. Now, I just finally pulled the spark plug cover off of my other 1949, a 76C, and, lo and behold, the original paint is still on the head around the plugs as well as inside the cover! The prior owner had painted it (half-ass) with what appears to be the Hirsch paint. Attached are some comparison pictures for you all. When I saw the uncovered color I thought, "AH, now that color makes sense and I like it." I think it looks like what I've always called industrial green that was so common in the late forties and early fifties. I've seen similar on a ton of '54 Chevy's, on other GM products as well as the walls of my ancient elementary school.and some kitchen appliances we had in those days. I have never seen the CARS/Hirsch color anywhere so I can more easily believe the greener color I uncovered is correct. I realize it could be affected by heat but I doubt it. How does the color compare to any other original engines out there you folks my possess? Your comments and observations will be appreciated!

I was driving my 1949 Buick Roadmaster convertible around Houston yesterday and wondered just how many cars like mine are still registered in town. Do I have the only one? How can I find out? Years ago a friend of mine would look for older cars by going to his county tax office and asking for a list of 1966 Jaguars registered in Dallas County, Texas where he lived. I doubt this would work nowadays but then again... Does anyone know how to determine the number of a certain car registered in a specific area?