hddennis

Thanks Ed, I'll take you up on that offer. PM me your shipping address when you get back and I'll send you the coil. You've been a lifesaver on this problem and I really appreciate the help. Howard Dennis

Thanks for responding. All the ignition parts and wires are new or new old stock. Plugs are used Splitdorfs and that is one thing I could change by getting modern replacements as it would be nearly impossible to get new Splidorfs of any type let alone multiple heat ranges. Is it possible this problem is strictly the wrong heat range plug? The coil is an original Atwater-Kent which I know has some kind of resistor built into the ventilated metal cap. Could that be bad? Is there any way this coil can be tested as I really would like to use it if at all possible because replacements don't exist that would match original looks. How would I fill in the damage I have and what should I use? I wondered about grinding an original cap into powder and mixing with some kind of epoxy? I really appreciate all who have taken the time to help me figure this out as I hate destroying original parts and would like to solve this once and for all and move on to other areas of this restoration. Howard Dennis

Thanks for the response and praise. Even though the original capacitor functioned seemingly well enough people smarter than me told me the same as you and I recently replaced it with a modern one. Maybe I waited too long as I see my New Old Stock cap ran only a few hours and now has the same damage shown in my picture of one of my used caps. I just cut the top out of one of my used caps so I can see Exactly where the rotor is as I'm suspecting the ignition is firing after the rotor blade passes the cap contact. That's my theory anyway?? Howard Dennis

First let me acknowledge my weakness in the mysteries of automotive electronics. Secondly I believe I asked this long ago but have forgotten the responses and hope maybe modern technology has advanced since then. My 1917 Maxwell uses an Atwater-Kent coil & distributor system designed to directly replace an existing magneto. This system was retrofitted to many cars of the period and was available in 4, 6 and 8 cylinder versions. Parts are getting hard to find and I'm finding a few caps that appear usable except for having cap material (Bakelite?) burnt away on one side of the inner contacts. Firstly what is causing this on multiple caps and secondly is there any cure to save these burnt caps. I'm 70, been fooling with cars my whole life and have never seen this on any other engines?? Howard Dennis

Dennis, is this the picture you are looking for?

You posted on an old post so I sent you an email. Howard Dennis

Dave, have you ever worked with the West System? In it's out of the can state it will run into fairly narrow spaces. They offer various slow to fast hardeners and they also offer thickening fillers to mix with it to get a more paste like fill that stays put till hardened. I've also mixed sawdust and wood flour with it which works well but for some reason the wood flour really speeds up the drying time and can get you in trouble if not aware of it. I've used it so much I'm now allergic to it so that's another thing to be aware of. Maybe it was my fault for not taking better precautions? Howard Dennis

The fasteners are called common sense fasteners and are on eBay and other online suppliers. Another name is Murphy fasteners: https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommerce/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=155 Howard Dennis

Just spotted this for sale: https://www.enginads.com/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/157307/cat/42 Howard Dennis

Greg, how about some info on your Chrysler museum? Since Fiat closed down their museum we Chrysler fans are feeling a bit like orphan make owners. Howard Dennis

For about the last 3 days every time I click on my bookmarked AACA Forum it says "This community not available" When I was able to gain access I deleted the old bookmark and used the new one only to have it fail again multiple times. What is going on? Howard Dennis

Bjornv, spotted this on eBay : https://www.ebay.com/itm/1917-1918-1919-DYNETO-Generator-and-Starter-Parts-List-Manual/381680787775?hash=item58ddf2a13f:g:b~sAAOSw3mpXI3F4&vxp=mtr Is this similar to what you need? Howard Dennis

Bjornv, you will probably have better luck finding out who made the starter and or engine because it most likely was used on other makes with more survivors than the extremely rare Dixie Flyer. Do you have any pictures? That would be a big help as well. Howard Dennis

It's happening to us all But it sure beats the alternative! Howard Dennis P.S. If you end up with a modern replacement for the oddball condenser could you post it here so we can all see what to use?

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/315121-points-for-maxwell/ Howard Dennis

Ivan, I'm confused and believe we are talking about two different gauges?? My gauge has a copper tube full of ether that expands a flat tube inside the gauge which moves the needle. I think they call this a Bourdon tube gauge. Howard Dennis

Thanks Gary, appreciate the response. Any idea of approximate turn around time? Howard Dennis

Anyone had one these capillary tubes replaced in the recent past? Trying to find out the approximate cost to have this done. Howard Dennis

Emile, I don't know if they can help or not but when I was at the end of my rope on my 1917 Maxwell's dash regulator cutout and coil problem they rebuilt both for me. It would be worth a try to see if they could custom make something for you. http://www.mykmlifestyle.com/Ignition_Coils_Antique_.html

Found these in my files, hope they add to this? Howard Dennis

23hack, thanks for posting this and helping us out. Answer this for me. If he wires his car according to the Maxwell diagram isn't he just running HT to the cap on the magneto which the magneto then distributes to the 4 cylinders until engine starts and not actually running HT to the magneto's internals? Howard Dennis

Emile, while trying to find an answer to your questions I realized my suggestion to use any 6 volt coil was wrong and shows my lack of electrical knowledge. If I understand the problem correctly most 6 volt coils were used with a distributor whose points and condenser helped to control the coil's spark and using the coil by itself wouldn't work in your case. I was wondering if you could use a vibrating or trembler coil instead? that being said I STILL don't understand how your Maxwell's original coil functioned. I'm hoping someone with better knowledge will chime in and educate us both. Howard Dennis

Just ran across these diagrams from a 1915 owners manual if they help: Howard Dennis

Emile, I'll try to see if I can help you with my limited knowledge based on researching ignition systems for my 1917 Maxwell. My first question would be do you have an original Simms-Huff magneto on your car? If not you probably don't need the intensifying coil as Simms-Huff magnetos are the only ones I've ever seen incapable of generating sufficient spark at low rpm's to start the motor. In the 1915 wiring diagrams the coil is there to increase the spark from the dry cell batteries until the engine starts and the magneto reaches sufficient rpm to generate enough spark to run the engine at which point the starter pedal is released and the dry cells are disconnected from the ignition circuit. Electrical systems have always been my weak point so please don't take my statements as being expert advice I'm just trying to pass on what little I've learned. I would think you could use almost any 6 volt coil to intensify the spark from your dry cells or battery you currently have in your Maxwell. Howard Dennis

I can't find it in my heart to give any credit when the car is touted to be a restoration by a top firm and the add states NO rust. Clearly this is NOT the work of a top firm and it has serious rust issues in the doors and sills and I'd bet elsewhere as well. Howard Dennis