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If all the gauges work okay and all you need is to freshen up the faces I also recommend having a graphics shop make new decals. I had some made for my '36 Dodge and they came out great and for less than silk screen.

I think it cost me about $40.00 ( the shop owner was also my employer at the time). They printed about 4 sets on one sheet to save money and the hopes that I could sell a few sets. It took longer for me to get the girl to really look at the font and get it right; she made several attempts and I think she was getting irritated at me for making her do it over and over till she got it right. Not that they weren't conscientious, but she thought it was for free. In the end they did a very nice job and the gauges look great!

I redid my Dodge gauges by having a graphics shop reproduce the face details on a reflective decal paper and just recovered the gauge face plate. In your case where you have small and separate lettering ,I would have a good graphics shop photograph them and individually reproduce each detail on a clear paper. After repainting the panel then apply the decals accordingly. After they're dry ,top coat with a good clear spray( compatable with the decal of course) and it should look almost like original. I wouldn't worry about the logo if you're not planning to sell them. This might save a lot of fooling around and maybe some money in the long run and should produce better results.

I'm not sure what you want either. The only straight cut gears(like the picture above)are in the transmission. The pinion gear is a beveled spiral type. You'll need to post a photo!

Most good industrial suppliers should carry that material, it's called link belt.

Those are definately NOT "36 Dodge wheels.

A neighbor has a "37 dump for sale (more like a parts truck) and I was curious if the front fenders , cab and grille are the same as the pickups. It's missing quite a lot of parts and the cab roof is caved in but the cab really isn't in bad shape other than the roof. Thanks for any help.

The one in the center appears to be a Model "A" Ford chassis but with the photos posted horizontally and so small it's hard to tell.

If the bearing is a roller bearing,they should be available. Most of the roller bearings were supplied by Timken and should have the numbers printed on the bearing itself. If the bearing does not show any chipping on the rollers and the cage is not too loose it may be reuseable. Races should be okay provided there is no pitting on the bearing surface. You should be able to buy these bearings in a set or individually. Try Bearings Inc., Applied Industrial Technology, Allied Seal or any good bearing supplier. You will find that most of the bearings are made out of country( thanks to free trade)! I would stay away from odd brands and anything made in china.

That is not true. The early bed design is a carryover from the "T" but the express box is not two beds welded together. The side panels are one piece stamped steel parts with a different moulding pattern around the wheel well that is similar to the standard box. I believe the rear fenders are unique to this box(I could be wrong) and there is an extension piece that fits between the running board and the body to close in the gap in front of the rear fender. I believe that the end panel and tailgate is the same as the standard box. There is also a heavy duty express body that is different. It has a stamped steel outer skin box side(flat) and is lined inside with wood. The stake pockets are different as well as the tailgate and end panel. Original express boxes are hard to find and are very expensive in good condition. I think the last one I saw at Hershey was listed at $6000.00. Always wanted one of these and did find one close to home for $3,500 but it was in such bad shape I declined. Missing too many important parts!

It will just list the part numbers for the individual pads but won't give you any further info. Best think is to get an answer from some one who already replaced them. When the cars were on the road nobody needed to know the thicknesses, you just bought the pads if needed.

I did see one photo on the internet of one with dual rear wheels. I thought they were only configured with the single wheel setup. It also had a soft top cab.I also thought they were produced in mid to late '31 after the all steel cab changeover.

I would advise setting the body back on the frame(without the pads) and look for gaps under the mounting areas. If there are any, measure the gaps on both sides to see if they're the same. If they are not, it could indicate a twisted frame or body; the floors on these Dodges(especially the sedans) will sag some due to lack of support near the floorboard area.The gap measurements will give you an idea of what thicknesses to use, just remember to add from the basic thickness you start with (which I think is 1/4 in.).

You have to be careful about thickness. If the pads are too thick ,the body will ride too high and your hood will not line up correctly. Also some pads may vary in thickness depending on where they are located on the frame. I think the very front ones are two pcs. stacked up. I don't think most are any thicker than 5/6 or 3/8 in. dia.

I need to know if there are any changes made in the jet size or venturi size on the Stromberg EXV-2 carb used in the '30's Dodges from the 218 c.i engine to the 230 c.i. engine . Lets hear from some Stromberg experts!

I'm planning to use conveyer belting or mine belt. It comes in a variety of sizes and has the fabric reinforcement . I think the '36's used 1/4 in. and maybe 5/16 in. pads. Some are fastened to the frame rails with a rivet type nail. On my sedan, the pads at the rear doors fold down over the frame as well but I don't know if thats holds true for the coupes. I'm not sure of the actual thicknesses as mine are pretty well distorted. There are no reproduced mounting pads available for '36 Dodge cars. If you can't find anything ,let me know as there used to be a belting company close to my home.

Can you tell us the make and if they are steel, leather or rubber? I assume you're talking about the parts that keep the door from opening too far or do you mean the latches?

They sound like Niehoff Ignition numbers. Any good NAPA store should be able to cross them over for yuu>

Jeff , you're probably correct in that there is no outside beltstrip on your model. There would have been a rubber dust seal that was part of the glass setting channel that extended out far enough to ride up against the bottom of the inner door opening. There was probably no trim on the small corner of the window. We try to over think some of these cars but they were not always trimmed to the hilt. On cars with the beaded beltstrips,the ends of the beltstrips are crushed flat to fit around the beads on the channel as shown in the photos. Beltstrip material was originally held on with staples. Replacement staples are available and do work well if you carefully install them. I do not recommend using silicone to fasten window channels. First, it's residue gets on the paint and will make any future touch up a royal pain. Second,silicone makes a pretty strong bond which will negate any removal of the channel in case of wear or damage. The use of small (NO.4) flat head screws will work but make sure you sink the heads below the felt strip but don't drive them through the metal skeleton. Also just use a couple,you only have to hold them in place ,not protect them from hurricane winds! You might check with Restoration Specialties to see if they have any original channel clips as they have a good selection of obsolete parts (814-467-9842). Some GM cars (coupes, and maybe some sedans) don't use window channel in the rear qtr. windows. They have beltstrip material fastened to the garnish mouldings and the outer frames with staples and clips.

Your spring photo looks like a standard 10 leaf front spring used on all regular "A" chassis. The rears used different leaf counts to accomodate heavier bodies and had s much higher arch.

Does anyone know if there were any changes in the EXV-2 carbs from '36-'38. I have a D-8 and looks exactly like others that have no markings. Was there any jet or venturi changes for use with the 230 engine over the 218? I just saw a pic of an EXV-2 carb with what looked like a cast throttle lever(broken) instead of the stamped part or was that something somebody hacked up?

Does anyone have any info on the Ford "AA" service car. Looking for box interior and underside photos and dimensions. Also looking for close ups of body sides and rear area, also dimensions on chrome grab rails on top of bed. Just curious at this point; thinking of how to build one. Does anyone know of any in existance?

That's the president of MACK trucks trying out the new hood ornament!

They all sounded like gas powered model airplane engines. They can keep them!!!

I love those old shows and the old gangster movies. The old movies have a period feel because they were made during that era; today's movies can't come close,they always seem to contrived and fake looking especially when all the cars are Model A's! I was foolish and sold that truck in 2000 and I'm still kicking myself!