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yeah, it's definatley green. As I said the camera did not pick up the correct color which is not uncommon as you can see a blue car in the movies and it is actually green. There are only three green body colors that I know of for '36. Avon green,Palm green(which is dark) and Archer(Hunter) green which is much different color. Fron the other samples, cowl,inside of body overspray and under the deck lid it all points to Avon green. It is a ligher green,I'm sure it has some blue and yellow toners in it, but I know ,at least according to the color charts, it's closets to Avon Green. If you have ever seen the advertisement with Bing Crosby, it shows a car that is roughly the same color. Also the two page fold out that shows the different body styles shows a car that's very close too. It is definately not blue!

You're welcome! I found these folks at Hershey about 8 yrs. ago and was impressed by their work. I also need a set for my '36 dodge which I may soon order. Good luck with your cars!

Here are some photos of Avon green. The lighting caused the paint to have a blueish tint but it's actually a light green similar to the light pastel greens you see on current model cars . The camera just didn't pick up the right color.

I don't think the car in the above photo is Avon Green . It looks more olive tone ,the Avon Green is much lighter. My car is supposed to be Avon Green and it had the silver accents on the wheels and the back of the wheels were silver also. I have seen several cars painted in a similar color a the car above but it does not match the Avon Green chips at all.

I was just wondering. I had been contemplating getting another A and thought a woody might be nice. I 've only been to Hershey in the last number of years as a vendor and you don't get to see much! Things always come and go ,like the all steel '32 Chevy roadster bodies and fenders I saw back in the '80's. Couldn't find anyone on the internet selling the wood bodies but I do remember seeing them at Hershey years ago. Do you know the name of the company?

If you're speaking of the flexible hose between the engine mount and fuel pump,any of the Mopar suppliers should have them in stock. Try Robert's Motor Parts or Andy Bernbaum, both advertize in Hemmings and are on the net.

There used to be several manufactures of reproduction station wagon bodies for Ford Model A's . I'm thinking one was Iron Mountain. I haven't seen any around lately and was wondering if anyone is still producing them or if they were shut down due to licensing problems.

bbbbb9 ,If you can ,please measure the length of the axle housing (from the mounting flange where the backing plate fastens)to the other side. All mine measured 55 in. Everyone claims it should measure 52 in. Can't believe a car with 38,000 mi. would have an axle change, or all three for that matter!

I may be breaking protocal here but I'm going to offer a '35 ram direct to the '35 guys. I'm tired of playing Ebay games so I thought I'd try a little private auction. The part no. is 634173 and as you can see from the photos it's in fair shape. It will need replated but the only damage is the left horn is missing the very tip but that's easily repaired. I don't know what the true value is on this ram so if anyone is intersted you can e-mail me ,pm me or call me at 814-341-2461 and let me know what it's worth to you. In the case of multiple interested parties I'll try to give everyone an even chance. Thanks Jim

The main problem I had wasn't the fact that I had no title for my car but I had no I.D. numbers. The serial no. on a Model A Ford is stamped on the top frame rail near the front of the body. That area was rusted away on my car so I had no way of knowing what the original serial number was. I could get a new title but I had to have a number. So ,at that point I was dead in the water,that's why I took the measures I did. If you purchase a rough car ,it's more important to be able to identify the car's serial number than to have a title!

There is a set of new rubber bumper grommets for sale on E-bay for 1936-'37 Dodge and Plymouth. Item no. 280990782808. Just wanted to mention ,if anyone on this forum is bidding,that the rear grommets are NOT universal,they are body style specific. The seller does not mention what body they are for. I think that there are at least 4 different ones curently available. I don't want someone to pay good money only to find out they won't fit. I found this out on my own by trial and error! If you're going to bid, ask the seller first!

I'd venture that even with a new correct interior you're still looking at $6,000 - $7,000 tops! Contrary to the popular belief that if it's old it's valuable , this era cars do not bring big money. That doesn't mean that it will be less enjoyable! These cars are great drivers, they're dependable and roomy. Just have fun with it for what it is!

I always keep a dictionary close by for spot checks. I can spell,I just can't type. I read and reread my posts several times to correct any errors! Every once in a while something slips by! My English teacher would probably roll in her grave after reading some of my stuff!

If the car really is 100 percent original and since it is a low mileage car my advice would be to leave the interior alone and enjoy it as it is being careful not to cause any further damage. I don't believe that these cars are high dollar cars though. If you decide that you want to replace the interior it would be to your advantage to make sure that EVERYTHING is done as original. Original type mohair ,fasteners,trim and the like. Anything less will definately have a negative effect on resale value. An original interior will probably cost a couple thousand dollars as they must be custom stitched,there are no "out of the box" interior kits for these cars. Good luck and have fun!

Jen, Your photos are coming up "file not found" but I'd like to see some pics. I love those express trucks. I have a crank handle from a '36 car you can have but it needs painted and a new knob. D and D automobilia in North carolina would probably make new knobs for you as he made some for my Dodge and they came out great. He should still have the molds which is half the battle! Pm me with your address if you're interested. Jim

People used to offer money all the time to use our potties. Ussually we said no because the company would always drop them a couple of days before we'd get there and people thought they were fair game. Many times they were hogged up before we got to use them. Remember a potty on a vendor spot is PRIVATE! Chances are if there were more benches you'd never get a chance to sit anyway! Some folks park and never move! Umbrella and rain coat sales used to be pretty brisk. Could use more parts haulers,years ago the Boy Scouts used to do it!

My '36 Dodge is still collecting dust as I try to finish the restoration;sometimes I wonder if I'll live long enough! Back in the '80's an '90's when I had my Model A Ford RP we used to drive it all the time. Sometimes I'd take it to work,we'd go for Sunday afternoon rides and for ice cream in the evenings. For a while it was the only truck I had so a few times I took it to the lumber company to pick up materials. You should have seen the looks on the faces of the yardmen when I pulled in! We went to many local shows in those days ,I think the farthest was 2 hrs. away. Never had any trouble and we cruised about 45 mph all day! Scariest ride I ever had was when my buddy and I took the truck to the 40th anniversary of the PA turnpike at the Sidling Hill rest stop. Driving 45 on an interstate can test the nerves of the strongest folks. We got a lot of looks but to my surprise no unfriendly gestures , except when we hit a German Shepard that ran into the road last minute. Can't stop a Model A at 50 on a dime! The dog survived but I think the owner had a heart attack! But my favorite thing was to stop at friend's houses and ask if they wanted a ride, then I would say "you drive". That put the fear in them but most accepted. It's always exciting to be able to drive a vintage vehicle and all of them got a kick out of it,especially the older folks who grew up with these cars. They had a little trouble shifting and the sound of grinding gears brought many a red face and a quick apology but I'd always say "hey,it's a car,if it breaks we'll fix it" "just have fun". At the shows I would encourage folks ,especially kids to feel free to sit in it and experience a piece of motoring history. Too many folks just want you to look from afar ,and I can understand that, but what a thrill it is to really share your car! I sold that truck in 2000 and kick my self every day for it! Jim

Overdrive units were available in the '30's but I'm not sure if they were available on '36 Dodges. I had a friend who had a '37 Chrysler Imperial 7 pass.sedan with a factory overdrive, man would that thing go! Could be a nice bolt on option for those cars,get a little more speed out of it. You'll also have to get a shorter drive shaft.

Coolie, Inside the horn button there are 4 parts. First,there is a cone shaped cup open on both ends. This goes in first with the small end first. Next is a spring about an inch in dia. and about 11/4 inches tall with a brass plate attached to it. Insert the spring into the button open end first so you see the plate. Next you should have a brass plate with a small hole in the center and three protruding tabs. Place this plate over the spring aligning the tabs with the slots in the button. Next push down on the assy. and snap the retaining ring into the groove around the outside of the button body. That's it! I will add that there are two versions of the 3 pronged lock plate. One has center hole about 5/16 in. in dia. the other has a larger hole about 11/2 in. in diam. The plate with the larger hole uses a plain spring with a wider contact plate that fits the larger hole. The two parts will not interchange with one another. On the column the button retainer plate is secured by the steering wheel nut inside the wheel. The horn wire and contact goes through an 1 5/8 wide brass plate with a 3/8 in. center hole and is fed through the large spring into the column. Hope this helps! Jim

I'm sorry,I thought that was a printed copy. It might be high for a CD but I thought it was a good price for a printed copy.

Ian, you can purchase all types of stainless fasteners from Totally Stainless here in the states. They have the slotted round head and pan head metal screws as well as the smaller than standard slotted oval head screws for trim and garnish mouldings. Nice work on your car!

I just looked,there is a Master Maintenance manual on E-bay under '35 Dodge for sale now at $25. and change. I paid $35 years ago. Ask the seller about the quality and if he will allow you to return it if not satisfied. It is a must!

Your best bet with wiring is to purchase a new harness from one of the several suppliers(I like Rhode Island Wiring) rather than trying to cobble one together yourself. They do cost a little but all the wiring is the correct size, most of the connectors will be on it and should come with a diagram. There are detailed fold out diagrams in the Master Maintenance Manuals. You can still buy a new cylinder along with front brake cylinders from NAPA. The rear ones ,I believe,have to be resleeved as they are special. I had White Post Restorations do mine. I would definately switch back to a Stromberg carb . I think it's always best to restore cars with the proper parts that they were built with! With any restoration IMO, that it's not a good idea to try to skimp on money buy taking short cuts. Many times it will come back to bite you. Usually with a little thought and creativity you can come up with a solution that will save some money but not compromise quality or authenticity.The future value of your car,both monetarily and in driving pleasure, will depend greatly on the time ,effort and money you invest now to get it right the first time.

Most of the copies sold by regular automobilia dealers are of good quality but the Motor's manuals are original books. You should be able to make a door panel by simply tracing the shape of the door onto a pc. of doorboard(also available at good upholstery shops or Restoration Specialties) marking the location of the clip holes and window crank handle openings and cutting them out. The original type panel clips are available (they're a 2 pc. assy) and can easily be installed. Your upholsterer will have to stitch you up a new interior. You might solicit the Dodge forum for a good grille assy. or watch e-bay but you'll probably pay through the nose from E-bay. The bumpers you'll have to have replated. These are not easy cars to restore like Fords or GM cars as there are not many parts available. Your best bet would be to find one or two good parts cars for donor parts. I had 2 parts cars for my '36 and managed to glean enough original parts to build one car. There are alot of knowledgeable folks on this forum to help you with technical and accurate information,don't be afraid to ask! '35 and '36 cars are fairly similar mechanically so some of the '36 guys can also offer info! Most mechanical parts can be purchased through Robert's Motor Parts, Andy Bernbaum and many are still available through NAPA stores. Good luck! You can post pics by clicking on the "Go Advanced" box after typing your reply which will take you to another screen. Click the attachment icon and it will take you to a screen where you can select photos from your files. Photos should be no larger than 2M. Incidently,I can rebuild your door window channels which is essential if you want your windows to work properly. If you have questions please feel free to call me at 814-341-2461 and we can talk .

You should be able to purchase a copy of the maintenance manual for'34,'35 and '36 from most automoblia supplers. I see that there was a mention of a reprint I believe on this forum if not on E-bay. I think they were asking$108. You should also get a copy of the Motor's Automotive Repair manual(big blue hardback book)for 1935-'48. These books are invaluable! As far as door panels go, you will probably have to make new ones using your old ones as patterns(i assume you have old ones) as new ones are not available. You're also going to have to reupholster your old seat or have an auto upholserer do it for you. There is virtually nothing available for the mid thirties cars! Several suppliers sell bulk fabric and door panel material that will be correct for your car. Also correct fasteners and headliners are available from Restoration Specialties in PA 9814-467-9842 or you can see them at Carlisle and Hershey meets.