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Early in automotive production I think they sized wrenches by the diameter of the bolt but the actual opening was sized for the O.D. of the companion nut. They also had thicker and wider nuts and bolt heads for a while. After the adoption of S.A.E. standards sizes were changed to the modern ones we use now. Or so I've been told! I've also seen reference in old Ford manuals refering to wrench sizes that matched the diameter of the fastener being used.

You might give Restoration Specialties in PA a try on the rubber . They have many "L" shaped extrusions that may work and may have had requests for this part before. Their number is 814-467-9842 (9-5 EST.) They can send you samples too!

They look like a type of speed nut. Call Restoration Specialties @ 814-467-9842 (9-5 Est) and they should be able to fix you up. Jim

I had a similar situation at a local show with my '28 Ford RP. I was walking back to my truck when I noticed 3 good sized twentsomethings crammed in the cab. I guess they wanted to see if they would fit. Man was I ticked,more so because they had to climb on the running boards with their dirty work boots and I never used the boards after restoration! I calmly walked up to the truck and leaned inside and said "Hi fellas, pretty neat truck huh?" They responded "Yeh ,this is cool man!" I said "Do you think the owner would appreciate you being in here?". "Well we don't know who he is,we're not hurting anything!" I responded " i know the owner and he is on his way over here and will he be angry when he sees you guys. You better get out now and git". Boy those guys piled out like their buts were on fire! You just don't know about some people. I also am wary of women carrying purses or men who have the long chains dangling from their pants. I had one guy looking at the truck one day wearing a truckers wallet and a chain about 12 ins. long hanging down. I asked him not to get so close and he stood up ,turn around abruptly and that stupid chain bounced of about 4 spokes of the spare wheel. Fortunately,no damage! One question folks would ask about the truck was "Does the top fold down?". They seemed so perplexed when I told them no and that it was designed not to fold or come off! People also seemed to think that you had to really slam the doors to get them shut! I don't know why that was, I guess it's the same theory that if you meet a blind person you must scream at them so they can hear you better! Go figure! Still it wa a lot of fun..I do miss that truck!

It's the toeboard and it looks very similar to the one in my '36 car with the exception on the shifter cutout. The cut is deeper,I'd say up to the top of the depression shown on yours. Trucks might be a little different than the cars and it might be from a later year.

There used to be a compny called L & L Antique Auto Trim in Pierce City,MO. Last number I have for them is 417-476-2871. They made aluminum running board trim.

I learned to drive in a '69 Corvair and it was a good little car. That thing would go places a Jeep couldn't go! My friend also had one and we used to take it out on the strip mines to go "4 wheelin' ". Mine would leak a little exhaust fumes once in a while and eventually the left front wheel rusted off one day. We replaced the front axle(what a job) but it never steered right after that,so we let her go. It is amazing what some people will ask about old cars and how little they know(even some of the old "experts") and did you ever notice they always have to touch it for some reason. I did enjoy letting folks sit in my Model A and letting others take it out for a spin on occasion. At that time I had some older friends that actually had Model A's in their youth and I'd get a kick watching them relive "the old days". That part of sharing the car more than made up for all the stupid comments and questions! What bothers me more though, is the guy who will brag about restoring a particular vehicle and when questioned knows absolutely nothing about it or tries to make the vehicle into something it's not! I've learned through the years that when some folks ask questions or make silly comments it's because they really don't know and it's our job to help them learn!

That is one part you'll have to glean from a parts vehicle, unless you're lucky enough to find one at a parts swap! Good Hunting!

I was in the battery business for 24 yrs. and learned some things. A fully charged battery will not freeze;we stored many new dry charged and wet charged batteries in cold storage and never had one fail. Cold is better for a charged battery than hot weather as the molecules are closer together when cold and tranfer a charge better. If you are going to store one first have it fully charged and store it on a shelf in a cool,dry area and it should remain charged all winter. If you wish to store it in your car, have it fully charged,place it in the vehicle and remove the terminals so it will not drain through any fault in the electrical system. Keep the battery dry! The old story of not storing a battery on wood or concrete was a half truth. The wood or concrete themselves are not the problem. Sometimes people would hose down batteries prior to storage because of leakage of the acid or spill acid when filling. Since liquid is conductive the batteries would discharge through the water or acid if the floor was allowed to remain wet and if the water had any contact with metal. If a battery is kept clean, dry and charged before storage ,there should not be a need for a tender. I kept the battery in my Model A this way for 16 yrs. and never had a problem and never used a tender. I only ever had 2 batteries in my Ford in 16 yrs.;the first one failed due to a short from vibration!

It's interesting to note the one station in the '30's is selling gasoline with the 10 percent ethanol mix! Everyone thinks that's a new idea! Sorta like unleaded gas,which has been around forever! Apparently the "corn alcohol" mix didn't work so well as it eventually went by the wayside:maybe we should learn from other's mistakes!

If he can use one from a car I have one available and not too far away. Jim

There was some discussion about axle widths in an earlier thread. All three of my cars had the 55 in.wide axles. One car has a '35 build date!

Ulvira sounds like the place to go. i spoke to the owner several years ago after reading about them in a "Skinned Knuckles" mag and he seemed like a super guy. He did say you should have the reflectors bright nickled prior to having hem aluminized.

Looks to me to be a late '28- early '29 splined Model A Ford wheel just prior to the new 2 tooth Gemmer steering gear. Earlier wheels were a red rubber. Later '29 wheels looked the same but were keyed to the shaft . This looks like an original wheel because of the lack of a distinct parting line on the rim but I see what appears to be red splotches under the black. It might be an old repro as they have been around for quite awhile. You might find someone who wants it but restoration of the wheel might cost 3 -4 times the cost of a good U.S. made repro. Don't expect to get rich!

There's still alot of parts available aftermarket if you can get someone to look. Problem is today,with computers ,you have no hard copies to reference. Used to be that manufacturers suppied application books and buyers guides which usually showed pictures of each product,casting numbers,specs. and crossreference numbers to other OEMs or brands. Now all you have is what's listed on the computer,which can be very limited. Also there is a lack of full service auto stores that carried multiple brands and carried a good stock coverage. Seems today you have to order everything! Besides ,you used to have counterpeople who were in the business from the '30's and new what fit each car from memory and usually new about cars. Most counterpeople today are young ,part time help who only fill a position and have virtually no knowledge of cars especially anything before they were 16! Not to put down the help,it's just how the industry has changed.I started in 1976 and was trained by people who made a career in auto parts and who still cared about helping the customer. I went back to the company I used to work for to see if they kept any of their old catalogs(although they no longer sell auto parts) but alas,they've discarded them long ago! If anyone find old catalogs at flea markets,pick them up, they may be useful sometime. I remember hunting down wheel cylinders for a friends '37 Packard this way. Took a lot of trial and error but I found all 4 ,brand new and at half of the cost of the Packard parts guys! I've found that I have gotten the better service lately from older NAPA stores as they still supply a lot of older parts.

From an old Wagner book it looks like the '37 cylinder is a Wagner no. F3241. 1 1/8 bore size with 2 - 3/8-24 outlets. If you can find a Wagner distributer that will actually help you, they may be able to check to see if the unit is still available aftermarket or if it crosses to another brand or number. It is very possible that it's no longer available and must be rebuilt. I was unaware of the diiference.thanks for the info.

Restoration Specialties can supply you with all the correct door and window seals,window channel and beltstrips . 814-467-9842

What makes the 37-41 Plymouth cylinder so special. Aren't they just a standard type single cylinder? Can't imagine what makes '37 much different than '36.

Check Steele Rubber.

Call Restoration Specialties in PA (814-467-9842) . Clips are their specialty. 9 am- 5pm EST.

Master cylinders for '40 Plymouths should be available new from NAPA . Save some trouble!

Did you replace any bearings? Some trannies used bearings with an oil shield to curb mainshaft leakage. If an unsheilded bearing was used the oil will pour out. Some trannies used tapered shafts and if they were removed through the wrong end the bore in the case would be expanded allowing a gap around the shaft to leak. Don't know if this would be the case.

Issue with these cars is the body wood. I haven't seen a fordor yet in that condition that didn't need a lot of wood work. I think you'd be closer at $2,500-3,000 because of restoration costs!

You're robably thinking of masticated rubber. Restoration Specialties carries this and it's 3 ft. wide and sold by the linear foot. Their no. 814-467-9842

Restoration Specialties in Pa carries 1x3/16 and 11/2 x 3/16,the larger sizes are no longer available. A lot of this material is going obsolete due to cost of manufacture compared to sales. Even the old cork style glass setting tape is almost gone! Their number is 814-467-9842