hwellens

Tried to send you some information by email, but, was returned. Used email address that you have registered.

I think you want a lower ratio rear to go faster at the same engine speed. Depends on the body style you have. The lower ratio rears came in the coupes (3.70) the others were higher (4.12). Basicaly about a 10% difference.

What size wheels, number of bolts, and hubcap size? Can you post a picture.

Check the technical section of this site: http://www.merc583.addr.com/mopar/framesets/techtipframeset.html

I did since they knew nothing about early radiators.

New car radiators and associated equipment are designed to take higher pressure. Your argument is like the one the radiator shop used when they tested my radiator to 16 lbs to check for leaks. They blew a 1 inch hole in it.

35 Dodge engine serial numbers should start with "DU"

Do not agree with putting a 16 pound cap on because if the radiator sees that much pressure it will blow it apart. Make sure you have the correct water pump. They changed around 1950. Also, if it is for a Dodge truck, they are different. Check your vacuum advance diaphram at the distributor. If this is not working to advance the spark at high speed, the engine will run at a higher temperature.

The needle valve is at the top of of the tank. If the valve does not shut the gas gets sucked into the intake manifold. Then the engine burns it with a lot of black smoke. By filtering the gas should have no effect on the needle valve since it only sees air at the top. I had a similar problem except my float had a pin hole and with the weight of gas it did not have enough force to close the valve. When the float goes up there are springs on the valve that usually slam it shut. The only solution is replace or fix the needle valve to stop the vacuum.

I have 1912 touring that was restored in the 60's. Still in decent condition. I joined the REO club last year and went to the meet in Canada.

If it was doing it before, maybe someone changed the pressure plate. If the pressure plate fingers are not adjusted for your car, it wont disengage or engage properly. I doubt the problem is is the drive gear or teh pilot bushing in the engine being too tight. If it was too tight ypu would have a hard time getting the transmission in. If the adjustments are correct, is the fork arm that releases the throw out bearing worn or bent?

I had a machinist make the shaft. The impeller on mine was a tight fit with pin in it. You will have to hone out the brass anyway with an adjustible reamer.

Is the book for sale or is there any chance of getting a copy of that parts book? I have the parts book that covers 1912 only.

Does anyone know if there is a difference between the 1912 and 1915 R-5, 4 cyl engines other than serial numbers?

Tim, I have attached a picture in the area you were asking about of my original frame that is below the window. I have the dash pictures also if you need them.

The VIN for 1926-27 Model 50 Chryslers went from FW-000-P to FL-486-E. This is in the dash plate These are the type of VIN numbers listed. Send me an email(listed on site) and I will send you info to show the registration office.

The closest thing I have is a diagram for a 23 Dodge.

Exhaust leak through the head gasket into the water jacket will make it over heat fairly fast.

Bill, I don't think your CJ engine/carb are like the 70/77 series. The 70/77 has a downdraft Stromberg carb and I think yours is updraft. The air cleaner is different. However if you do have a downdraft, I my have a carb. The engines are also very similar on the 70/77. Only the bore is different.

I have never found any documentation on the engine colors, but, I also have a late 1929 (sold in August 29) Chrysler Model 70 I purchased in original condition in 1964 with 42,000 miles. The engine was black and the color under everything that was taken off the block was black. The head was silver. I have a copy of the delivery order for my car from Chrysler archives and it came out of the Jefferson Plant August 7, 1929. Not sure if two engine colors were used that year? Based on the August 1, 1929 Model 70 parts list there were 2 different part numbers for the blocks (before and after block number V-13858). There are also three different cylinder head part numbers listed (Silver dome, Red head, and no color designation).

Thanks, for the correction. I thought the 35/36 were flat on top and not rounded like this one.

Have the Right hand side only. If interested, I will sell for $30 including postage in USA.

Regular unleaded gas is OK. Leaded gas did not show up until 1938.

The only years of Plymouth that used "Q" was 1928 - 29. However the "Q" was not used in the serial number for the car. The Q was used in the engine number prefix. The 28/29 cars had the serial number over the instument panel. They were 2 letters - 3 numbers - 1 letter (example: RW-123-P)

Early 1930 Chryslers had the cowl lights at the top of the windshield.