hwellens

Just take the head off and then use a valve spring tool that opens up(spreads apart). These Tools are plentiful and easy to find. Put this tool between the block and the bottom of the spring. The spring will compress and there will be 2 half shaped cones on the the valve stem that you have to remove. Be careful; they are easily dropped and will end up in the oil pan. Than the valve should pull up out of the block.

The brake drum pullers for wire wheels are different than wood wheels. Wire wheel drums pullers are fairly easy to find since they could be used over several years. The wood wheel puller has to fit the hub thread size as discribed in Hubtoy's reply.

The cluster (countershaft) gear (part 661302) is the same in all mopar cars from 1935 - 1939. The low and reverse sliding gear (part 661299) is the same in all mopar cars from 1935 - 1938. I have had the same problem and it was the cluster gear that was chipped. You may be able to find a good used one.

You probably need a cluster gear. If it makes noise in reverse also you may only need a first/reverse slider gear. The gears will be easier to find then a good complete trans.

Wire or wood wheels?

Steel types were also made by Chrysler. They should be easier to find.

The best thing is to get them sleeved with brass or stainless steel. The are step bored and all 4 wheel cylinders on your car are different. I think 36-38 mopars are the same, but, new ones are hard to find.

Don't know what 38 Dodge shop manual you are looking at. The only spring that needs to be removed is on the clutch fork. I have 38 Dodge shop manual and can send you acopy of the removal steps. The release bearing comes out with the transmission.

The 38 Dodge sales brochure shows the antenna on the side cowl, but, also shows an antenna that could be mounted under the running board. Picture attached of 38 Dodge from Chrysler archives

My 38 Dodge did not come with a radio, but, had carriage bolts in the side cowl where yours are pictured. Removed them and installed an antenna like pictured.

<span style="text-decoration: underline">Positive Ground</span>. The P2 should be the prefix of your engine serial number. Look on the bossing under the cylinder head at number one cylinder. Information attached.

Not sure what country you are in, but, in the USA we put the steering wheels on the left side. Otherwise fairly common car.

If your fluid drive coupling is low or out of fluid, you will have no power to the transmission. The coupling is between the motor and the clutch.

If the new pump is not pumping at high speed, the flow must be restricted or the pressure is low. I would check the pressure first when the engine is idling. Pressure should be around 3-4 PSI. If it is lower, the diaphram is weak and needs to be changed. If the gas over there has alcohol in it, it will damage old type diaphrams. If the pressure is ok then the flow must be restricted. The pump has a fine screen in it and may have gotten some dirt in it. You have to take the pump apart to look at the screen. The only other problem, but unlikely, would be the cam lobe that drives the pump is worn or the fuel pump arm got bent when you installed it.

Try this site. Has parts or they can rebuild it for you. www.then-now.com/The_Cellar/fuelpump-4.htm

Picture was taken in Devils Lake North Dakota

Photo taken in the 50's. What is the make and year?

Your generator/voltage regulator will not work properly. What is the reason for change?

My hub centers are as you have pictured. I have seen the smoother curved hubs and other than that part the wheels and spokes are identical. Not sure if they fit the 31 Chryslers or another make.

I have 1930 Chrysler model 70. It has the 18" wire wheels. I do not have any extra wheels. Picture attached.

Are your wheels 18" or 19".

Are your left and right side lugnuts both right hand threads? I have 30 Chrysler and it has 9/16" bolts that that thread into the drum. Looks like they went to studs in 1931.

What is the number om the carb? Should have a 4 digit/letter number (eg. D6H1)

According to Hollander interchange the 28-30 Sr, DA, and DB are the same. Also, 27-28 Dodges are the same. This is the carrier assembly only (3rd member). The 30-31, 3/4 ton 120" wheelbase Dodge truck, Dodge Graham 27-28 1/2 ton, are the same. The 1930 DD is different; even the ring and pinion are different.

On my P-20 convertible they were glass.