buellhall

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About buellhall

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  1. Just a thought, but I wonder if we could look at this from a little bit different perspective. Lets just set our own love of the american automobile aside for a minute and take a look at the "big picture". While we are treating our junk yards like national shrines the rest of the world is harvesting these resources to build new cities and yes military strength. I have witnessed first hand in South America the harvesting of metal going to China by the ship load... The China government knows the importance of the resource and is using it to fuel their most recent economic surge. So I wonder if we as knowledgeable care takers of these rusty resources can join hands with the government and work out our differences for the greater good of the country. While I do know that larger cities have metal recycling plants I wonder about the thousands of communities that just park their old clunkers behind the barn and let it rust to the ground. Sorry but this is not using our resources to our best advantage. This is perhaps a bad example but if we would have take some lessons from Japan and started to make a more fuel efficient and a more quality car in the early 90's things might be different now. Sooo maybe we should learn from countries like China and harvest those cars that we all know are way beyond restoration candidates. Just a thought !!!
  2. Looks like you have most everything covered. Just a couple of suggestions. I see you have new points but make sure that small wire going from the out side of the distributer to the points is in excellent shape and super clean. I tend to get a bunch of disagreement on this one but if you rebuilt your carb I would consider getting it professionally rebuilt. These carbs need to be cleaned rebuilt by some one who can set this thing up to very close tolerances in order to give top performance. Just putting some new parts in the carb very seldom works. Again this is just me but you may try advancing or retarding your distributor, because old engines can have lots of wear on things like timing gears and chains even though you may be right on according to spec. The engine itself may be asking for a plus or minus reading... This procedure can take a bit of trial and error with engine hot and cold. Finally if you even think you gas may be three months or older consider dumping it. Always use sta-bil if you don't use that gas up on a regular basis. Sounds like you may have made your own battery cables you need to make sure the connections are soldered very good you should be able to pull on them with pliers. Use only the best connectors, no screw assemblies on these 6 volt systems. good luck!!!
  3. Price is now reduced to $8000... Thanks for looking!!!
  4. I'm Not familiar with Hupmobile (although my grandfather thought they were awesome). Soooo not sure how impossible it is to find this part, however at the site below you can purchase and entire engine (big $$$). They may consider parting out one of these engines... good luck!!!! Would like to see photos of your restoration. http://www.prewarcar.com/parts/list.php?pc=s&s=p&cmid=141
  5. Year: 1939 Make: Chrysler Model: 4 door Royal Windsor Price $9000 Description: Very good running condition with current inspection sticker. New Coker tires and interior. New wiring harness front/rear lights. New turn signals. Recent tune up with new Hoses. This is a ten footer with a good paint job but not professionally done. Rebuilt carb. professionally done. Springfield, MO 417-988-0225 hallw@mchsi.com
  6. You are so NOT out of line on this one... God bless you for stepping up to base. I must say that Rush missed out on this one because there should be a part 3) in addition to the excellent suggestions listed in item 1 & 2 a goodly portion should go to the brave men and woman returning from Iraq and Afghanistan with disabilities... God bless America!!!
  7. Thank you! everyone! 32 Stude had some steel freeze plugs that worked just fine. However going to try ERSCO so when I rebuild the engine I would like to go brass... Thanks again!!!
  8. Gentleman ... Gentlemen!!! Will we never learn. We have been down this road several times in the past and to what avail. Because you see it is not an issue of money it is not an issue of one state's regulations verses another states regulations, rather it is an issue of integrity/honesty that I believe we as care takers of the "history" of this wonderful automotive industry need to preserve it. I love to play the game of golf and you only need play one round of golf to see where a man stands with honesty/integrity. And so it is with Antique/classic cars. I truly believe it degrades Antique/Classic car industry as a whole to use what I would call "financial loophole" to license their 1982 Chrysler La Baron to either save money or avoid an inspection. Shame on you!!! ChopShopCustoms you are very generous with the pre 62... My vote would be late 50's. Soooo finally I'm very pleased to be the owner of a 1939 Chrysler, and did I mention it has current inspection sticker!!!
  9. I'm thinken you have the basic chrysler 6 cylinder motor? I have a 39 chrysler Royal Windsor, which doesn't make me an expert by a long shot. However for me the harder it is to get any old car of this vintage to start the more fun it is. (sic) As I'm sure you know this is most probably a 6 volt positive ground system... that being said most/many electrical issues are in fact "ground" related. Check that ground battery cable it really needs to be in excellent shape. Not to take the emphasis off the ground issues likwise the negative cable to the relay must be excellent as well. If your kinda good at fixen stuff you can make these cables at half the cost using supplies from your local auto parts store. Next place you might try is the distributor... Don't be afraid to pull the thing out of your engine (keep in mind it position in relationship to the engine and of course the rotor position) They are very easy to get back in the original position. Okay soooo ya need to reset the points if there is and oil residue on the points you need to pull them clean them. I use ele. spray cleaner fron auto parts store. Now the most important thing to check is that little wire leading from the points to out side of the distributer. This little wire must be in excellent condition any cracks or wear you must replace it. Again you can make one of these with very little effort. (please use a very flexable wire any stiffness in the wire could effect smooth operation of vacuum advance mechanism in the distributor. Finally that rotor needs to be in excellent condition... sometimes just a polish job with some fine sandpaper/emery cloth will do the trick. Now move on to the distributer cap clean it up and inspect that coil wire. Good Luck!!! Send a picture or two of your car...
  10. OK, having some problems finding freeze plugs for my 1939 Chrysler Royal Windsor (6 cylindar). Looking for the brass type (they are flat type) 1 5/8 diameter. Can someone give me the name specific supplier.
  11. Thanks Keiser31... I will try my local parts store!!!
  12. I have a 1939 Chrysler Royal Windsor 6 cylinder. The frost plug between the distributor and the starter finally got too bad to ignore... sooooo I removed the thing without much effort, and now I need to replace it. Can anyone tell me where I can find a frost plug for this year car. Also, when I install the new one, is there any kind of sealer that I should use to seal the new one in place? The diameter looks to be about 1 5/8 inch.
  13. Stllrng... Thank you for your reply! I believe your analogy of the 1983 kitchen table is what My mind is trying to relay but the words fail me. After all the debate nothing describes my thoughts on the subject better than you have. It would seem that in a most tactful way you have described the true light on the subject. Soooo I shall abandon this thread/topic for now with the intention of joining the AACA in the very near future. Hopefully, I can gain some knoweledge from a professional point of view and be able to academically post a view point of worth... Thank you everyone!!!