JohnD1956

Thanks for the information Barry and everyone. I sent my frind a link to this thread so he can see the opinions and helpful hints you all posted. Harry; my friend owns the place.

900 cars, three 56 buicks, no good "J" bars. What's up with that? Actually, looking at the photos of this business and the Michigan one as well, I have to ask if there is any money to be made in the classic car junkyard business? I mean there is a lot of stuff on a lot of these cars. Looks like most cars are missing headlights and headlight doors. What about the rest of the stuff?

Barry, the vapor barrier goes under the 4 inches of sand? Or over the 4 inches of sand?

Yes, this is an 1850's barn. Can't say what was stored in it ages ago but the place has been resided, re-roofed, and made as weather tight as an 1850's barn can be. The old floor in the lower level had broken up and it was removed. It's just awaiting a new floor now. My friend does not partake in this hobby. He was thinking of this more as just winter storage for others. Basically park it and come back for it six months later. That's the usual schedule here in NY. Looks like concrete is the way to go for this endeavor.

Yes, most of these cars look rough. Makes one wonder why the proprietor wouldn't be more flexible with prices. I mean isn't a few buck better than none? He JR. How's things. Here's another one which seems to be in pretty good shape actually.

I believe the instructions say you can wipe the area to be painted and then paint right over the Metal Ready. I hope that is right because I did that on the roof of my 69 Electra. On that car I stripped the vinyl roof off years ago and the roof slowly formed a layer of rust. Last year I stripped the roof to bare metal and then hit the top with self etching primer. By the next morning I had rust bleeding through the primer. That's when I learned about Metal Ready. I stripped the roof to bare metal again, soaked the top with metal ready and a ran a wire brush over it but then rinsed it off. I dried it with a towel but within minutes I had another layer of fine rust. Almost a rust dust so to speak. So I put the metal ready on a clean rag and scrubbed the roof without rinsing. I waited a few minutes with the car in the sun for it to dry and then I shot another coat of self etching primer. It was october when I did this and it was cold outside when the sun started to go down. but then I shot two coats of clear over the self etching primer. This was a last shot deal prior to winter and the rust did not come back. The car then spent all winter outdoors and as of 6 PM tonight I still have no traces of that rust, AND it still looks and feels like I have metal up there. Of course some would suggest I may "have metal up there" for even tackling this project, but that's a different thread.

I'd hit it with a wire brush. I'd also like to know more about using WD 40 for a oil remover. I'd be more inclined to use brake cleaner if I were to do that. I was going to mention using "Metal Ready" on the pan before painting, but that comes with a consideration. That product is an acid and it will remove the rust but how would you get it off inside there before painting? On the outside of the car you can actually rinse it off, but inside that would make a heck of a mess. On the outside you can also wipe the area to be painted with a thinner, although that is an expensive proposition today and my main concern is being careful not to get cut up on the sharp edges of the floor pan or winding up with acid, water or blood in some of the seam areas.

a little paint and these are ready to go

crap: here's a pile of buicks

POR 15 is a great product, but I would try to eliminate that rust if I could before using it. That being said, this does not look like it will be easy and I would suggest it does NOT mean eliminating the rust entirely.

I have a friend considering re-doing a barn floor specifically so he can rent storage space in the winter. Please take a moment and aadvise which is better for the cars: concrete or asphalt? Thanks

Hey Stevo, Redwind ( my son Doug ), is planning to attend as well

Does anyone know of a potential source for a radiator cap and a connecting rod for a 1929 Marquette? I have had someone call me to ask for help and I don't know of any possible source Thanks

I would take the hub to a machine shop, and see if they can weld up the stripped holes ( most likey they do not have to shut the holes) , redrill and re-tap the threads. But before that I'd see if I could get a tap from your local tool vendor to run through the stripped holes. If you can get a straight start in the outside threads it may be possible to restore the stripped thread further in.

Before running to the nearest dealership and burning the garage doors off,look under the car. While this price sounds exorbitant, what is really involved in the repair? In my former 95 Riviera I believe the entire rear axle assembly has to be dropped to get the tank out. Anyone want to do that cheap? What's the real shame is that the manufacturers engineer this stuff to be not only next to impossible to do but highly likely it will need to be done. Honestly, some of this stuff could be made with service in mind. Is it really necessary to bury the electric pump, that will inevitably fail, in the tank to begin with? And if so, how about a body access plate so the tank and suspension can stay in place and you only deal with the part? Also, tools, scanners, shop HVAC energy charges and mortgages and taxes all need to be paid too. Not to mention floor plan interest on mandatory inventory levels. I'm certain there is a profit level to be had here, but Dealerships are not my idea of fun.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BUICK RACER</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> From Binghamton, throuh OH fiqure on 11 hours, it's about 110 more miles. Do not go on I-75 to Flint, you will end up on endless detours in downtown Detroit, the road is closed. Instead take I 280 in Toledo to I 75, then I275 to I96 to M23 north to Flint, where M23 and I75 merge,I 69 east to I475 north to Longway Blvd east to the Flint Cultural Center on your right, to Walnut St for show car entrance. On the OH turnpike watch for State Troopers around Exit 118. </div></div> 11 Hrs from Binghamton, plus another 2 1/2 from Albany via Rt 88. Still, thats the way I hope to go. I'd rather burn the gas on the open road rather than sitting at the border crossings. Now if we can just get those gas taxes waived for the summer Meanwhile the place we are staying in Painesville has a BCA connection. Although not members themselves, the proprietors told me they used to help another Ohio BCA member when he took his Buick to all the BCA events. What great people there.

I should have gone. It was raining at the point where I was planning to leave so I opted to keep the car dry. then a few hours later it stopped and never rained here again. Oh well, better luck next year.

Estimates from Albany to Flint would be 9 hours, going through Buffalo and Niagra Falls and then west through Canada to Sarnia. Here you cross backover into Michigan on rt 69 directly into Flint. It's longer if you take any breaks.

Great reading. Thanks for the link. Interest in the Rt 66 highway is peaking for me ever since a friend told me that he traveled a large part of it a few years ago. What parts are left now to tour on?

new replacement motors are probably available a lot cheaper than one would think. Advanced Auto and NAPA stock many motors. While I have not had a 91 apart, the last one I worked on was a 89 Lesabre. These motors were less than $40.00 new. As usual for GM , the window regulator was pop rivited to the door frame , and then the motor itself was pop rivited to the window regulator. In both cases It was easy to drill out the rivits which are only aluminum and remove the motor. Then I bought short bolts with nylon lock nuts from the hardware store to put it back together. The thing to watch out for is your inside panel. By 91 the panel may be hoocked to the door frame on the bottom. After releasing the plastic pins that hold the door upholestery on, you lift straight up on the door panel instead of trying to pry out at the bottom. Good luck

TTT. Note: the heat embossed ensignia on this piece is irreplaceable.

These rims have been sold. Thanks

I'll be on that caravan with Redwind from this site too. We are both driving along with John. Will your car be in an enclosed trailer? We did book some rooms at a hotel here in Albany for the night of 7-14 for those east of us, if they are interestd. The rates are $69.00/99.00 plus tax per night there. We had our meet there last year and the parking lot seemed fairly safe. We planned to leave around 9 AM on the morning of July 15th from that hotel, if anyone books a room. On the way out we are going through Binghamton and on to Ohio and are overnighting at a bed and breakfast in Painesville Ohio. We plan to arrive in Flint on wednesday july 16th Let me know if you need further information on either of these options.

Had the A/C fixed on the GS this week in anticipation of hot weather for the trip and a reduction in State Gas Tax ( maybe Fed tax too) for the summer months. It may represent only 12 bucks for a full tank but every 12 bucks give me incentive to roll. Now where's that dagnabit fed tax rebate so I can spend some more?

When developing a "post", at the bottom of the page is a "file manager" link. Click on that, then "browse" for the pictures on your PC and click the "add photo" button. Give the file a chance to load. The program will tell you when that's done. Note: when adding a photo, before you get to "browse", a box opens for you to put a caption with the picture. This caption is optional, and you can pass it by.