JohnD1956

Bill, Just want to chime in with the condolences and wishes for a successful outcome. That car looked Super alright. I can't believe the guy claimed he was in the right lane. That takes brass ones for sure. And I'm also glad you and Dee were not hurt.

You're right, according to those directions I did do it wrong. I saved a link to their web site so I can go back to it in the future. Good thing this particular car is just a three year experiment going on it's 2nd year.

From Desert valley Auto Parts in Arizona 65 Lesabre 2 dr I bought a door from them for my 69 Electra and it was very reasonable.

Considering the donor vehicle is at least 50 years old, chances are the bulb would have snapped off even if someone tried to remove it from the head intact. Be that as it may, chances are you don't even have the bulb, nor know the right length of the tube to the bulb. But I don't know if you'd need that before sending the unit to be repaired. Meanwhile it seems to me that I saw at least two of these at the National's swap meet this past summer, leading me to believe you may still be able to find a NOS one easier than you think. If you belong to the Buick Club there are a bunch of vendors in the monthly magazine who are available for inquiry.

I believe POR 15 has advanced some over the years, I had a can I bought so long ago I could not remember what year I got it. It was called Por-15 Topcoat, and I just used part of it last year on some patch panel floor pans I put in my Electra and then left exposed for a whole year. I did not notice any deterioration of the finish. I also note there was no rust coming through either. I also just finished up the can a week ago or so. In most cases I put this stuff on after wirebrushing the rust and it does form a tough coat over it. But my car is just an experiment in how long it will last. If I thought the car had any value I think I would have tried to wirebrush the rust more and hit it with some acid etch( Metal Ready wash) before putting the Por 15 on. In some cases I had new metal and that I primed first with self etching primer and then put the Por 15 on. That seems to work really nice. On some other pieces I used NAPA Rust treatment spray according to directions, then primed with self etching primer and topcoated with POR 15. All of these processes seemed to work pretty well but I think it would need at least 3 years to determine what the real outcome will be.

email sent

Considering how it's sunken into the mud it was probably already wasted.

Good thing you don't need that cigar lighter.

Thanks for taking the lead and posting your response Joe. I tend to agree with you. I was dismayed with the costs to attend the meet. It's a catch 22 situation I'm sure. Costs of everything are rising, and obviously, so it goes for the National Meet expenses too. Being a recent retiree, I was looking forward to making many Nationals for the next few years but then everything went fiscally crazy. For my wife and I to attend it's multiple hundreds to fly in ( $800 or more) and then start adding up room costs, or multiple hundreds in gas ( 1860 miles estimated one way / 15 MPG) plus a few extra days costs to try and drive it. I do not begrudge Colorado Springs as a location, I harbor dreams of suddenly finding the resources to make it. But right now I just find it to be over my level. And if I can't get to other's events, I feel it's an insult to ask others to attend ours. So I cannot push within our Chapter for hosting a National at this time.

I think you'll find this site is generally <span style="font-style: italic">VERY</span> friendly. It's a nice place to be for the car minded community. And I am thankful for that. Hang in there and I hope you find a buyer that meets your needs.

Dave: What's this fellow waiting for? What a great car that would be! However, in my version I would look for a Super on purpose. If I understand correctly, the difference in the two models is in the front end, with the Roadmaster being a bit longer. Since I currently only have enough resources to pursue this project in my dreams, I think the car would look better with the shorter front end.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BuickRob</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... But what about the temperature gauge? Didn't Buick still use the ether filled tube for these in 1955? </div></div> Yes. You should have the tube connected to the bulb that sits in the head on the motor <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BuickRob</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... Since the tube is snipped, doesn't this mean I'll have to disassemble the entire gauge set to remove the temperature gauge component, </div></div> No, the temp guage should be removable without major disection, At least it's only two screws on a 56 Buick, <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BuickRob</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... then find a temperature gauge component with the tube still intact and not damaged (i.e. with the tube's integrity not violated, otherwise the gas would have escaped). </div></div> While this would be my preference, I understand that there are services available that can rebuild these types of temp Guages. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BuickRob</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... In essence, if I was told I was getting a functioning gauge set...wasn't this a misrepresentation as the temperature gauge can't be called "functioning" when the tube is cut? </div></div> I would agree with you. However I bet this is gonna be one heck of a headache <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BuickRob</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... Is there any solution other than to find a fully intact and functioning temperature component?</div></div> If your car has a temp guage that is operating right now, disconnect it from the guage set in the car and then just slip it in place in the new guage set. Good luck

For a lot of years I thought my 56's rear main seal was leaking. I even bought two seals over that time because I was working up courage to tackle it but lost the first one. However, a mechanic doing some other work told me he thought the oil was coming from the valve covers, not the rear seal. After changing that it seemed to stop till the next summer and by then I was at a point where I hardly used the car. Fast forward a few years and I'm under there changing the oil when I noticed the seepage around the filter canister. And I discovered that the canister seal was apparently drying out over a years time and leaking the oil which flowed to the rear of the pan. Change out the oil filter seal and things dried up till the next summer. Been changing the seal once a year since, and no more dripping from the back of the pan area.

Please accept my apology. I did not mean to sound condecending. I probably should have kept my mouth closed. But I'm glad you did post those pics. That does look like a nice project car. I wish you good luck in selling it.

As a barn find this would be priceless. Which causes me to wonder if it wouldn't be just a bit more fun to reconstruct one today? One that had say, a 401 with fuel injection and a 4 speed and open driveline? Maybe a set of bucket seats, and a modern electrical system that could support an A/C and decent sound system? Hmmnn, Now where can one lay their hands on a 52 Super convertible that's ruined enough to convert and solid enough to stay converted? (I sense a membership in the Modified Division coming along.)

I would imagine a lot of lookers would be motivated by just the right project or finished car if they saw it. I could describe my 69 Electra so that someone would think it was a pristine car, when in reality it is rusted extensively. I know you didn't do that, but in my opinion no one in this hobby should be frustrated by lookers. That's what we all started out as.

Mike, make sure you have not crushed the flywheel against your dolly ( which also sounds kinda weird but you know what I mean). Next, I'd disect the front of the motor to take off the timing chain and see if it now turns. If not, I'm guessing you'd have to flip it over and disconnect the rods from the crank. If it doesn't turn over now then I'd be most surprised.

Stevo, interesting product claims. But looking at the site I found it "Contains diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers." Isn't Glycol what we use in coolant systems, or is this something else? I see they recommend one bottle per cylinder on a V8 which, at $19.95 each means a lot of money to me. I noticed that PB Blaster has petroleum distilates and can "restore hardened flappers" which sounds kinda weird to me. But if PB Blaster didn't do the job, I'd be inclined to consider the engine in need of a full rebuild.

I swapped the ACC unit for a standard Climate Control A/C system in my Electra. Now I have all the switches and controls available and hate to throw them away. All have been removed from the casings so they fit in a small box. This includes the program vacuum switch ( which has been refurbished internally and spins as required) The Program vacuum actuator which also functions, and the air door motors and fan switch plus more. All the color coded vacuum hose and electrical wire is also included. There is no fan motor, A/C evaporator,heater core, or water control valve, just the switches, vacuum hose and wiring. I currently have the housings but plan to trash them unless someone lets me know right away that they need them. These parts are available for the cost of actual shipping plus $10.00 for handling. Shipping from Glenville NY, zip code 12302 This is a rare opportunity to get 90% of the parts this system used as spares for your car. I also have a NOS water control valve for this system. I'd like to get $25.00 for that plus actual cost of shipping. See the pics below E mail questions to jld1972@verizon.net) or call 518 384 7807. Thanks

Oh, That kinda ride. I get it now.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Paterson Chris</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Cooling sytem was thoroughly flushed last summer. </div></div> I have never seen the core of a hunnycomb radiator. Is this similar to a top flow style with thin tube openings at the top tank? If so I might suggest you pull the radiator and flip it upside down and back flush the unit again. When I started to drive my 56 Buick after a long term generally inactive period, I found my newly recored radiator was blocked by a lot of sediment that got washed up from somewhere. At that time I pulled the radiator and had it flushed again, and then I installed a coolant filter in my top hose. That filter caught more junk than I could believe. I included a picture of the filter I bought but I heard othes have stretched pantyhose over the top hose mount and it worked just fine to catch the big stuff.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MrEarl</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> My buddies older sister who was smokin hot, had a blue one just like this. After she heard from my buddy how much I liked the car she gave me a ride. Ahhh, the memories....... </div></div> Okay, I'll ask. Were you in the front seat or...

Ooh! Ooh! A real classic station wagon.... but no resources...

I just was made aware of a 56 Roadmaster with a white over maroon outside and a mint green over black interior. How odd is that? Here, you be the judge!

Keeping them flat is key. Do you have any for a 56 Buick 322 cu in engine, or a 69 Buick 430 motor?