JohnD1956
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Posts posted by JohnD1956
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Dave Coco...what a great collection of cars!
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Tom, Thanks for the photo. May I ask what the assembly prodcess would be for the piston pin and the clamp bolt? It would seem the pin should be inserted into the rod, and then the bolt and then the piston
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Interesting. What's the story on the 50 Super Convertible?
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I did use the wrong termionology.
I do not know what that costs, but I'm certain smaller parts are not going to break the bank, especially when you save the time of having to re-do them in the future.
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And a third one in the background too?
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Can't blame you for that John. Here's a few photos of the event.
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How did you get them out without distoring them? I was thinking of trying a 3 point puller but have not attempted it yet.
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Maybe I used the wrong terminology? Anyway as I know it, plasticoting is a process where the part is stripped of all existing paint and then finished with a paint made of plastic beads. I do not know the formal process but the plastic beads stick through an electrostatic process, and then the part is baked in an oven, where the plastic beads flow out and form the top coat. Some people have had entire frames redone like this and the coating is vitrually indestructable.
The fan paint on my 56 has deteriorated and is full of poc-holes, not to the point of rusting, but just enough that when I wipe it down you can feel the rough surface on the blades. Plasticoating would prevent this.
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It seems to me the fan ought to be painted. ...
The more I think about it, I think every fan I recall seeing on the straight 8s was painted.
If ever there was a part that should be plasticoted, the fan is it. I painted my 56's but it seems to have taken quite the beating while in use.
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Too bad about that valley cover Bill. It was quite unique. But it's still an awesome Super.
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I would still try to spin the motor by hand to see if it is locked up. With the breaker bar you could turn the engine forwards and backwards. If you are unable to turn it, pull all or most of the plugs out to reduce compression. If it won't spin when the plugs are out then something must have gone wrong with the clutch.
One of the BCA members had a cracked bellhousing on his 50. I think he said he had a lot of clutch chatter before it actually broke all the way.
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Another thought is maybe you had the jack under the oil pan inadvertantly, and crushed it so a crank journal is hitting it now?
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It would be hard to imagine the starter turning fine without the flywheel spinning UNLESS: the solenoid has become disconnected.
Have you tried to turn the engine by hand with a socket on the harmonic balancer? That would immediately tell you if the engine is free or stuck.
If it's free to turn, then I'd imagine you would have to pull the starter.
If it's not free, check back for more suggestions, as there could be multiple sources of problems.
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Any chance you could include some pictures of what's described here? This is among the things I know nothing about, but would love to learn.
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Thanks SE. Dandy Dave suggested going to a local bearing shop and inquiring if there are stock items available, and I plan to do this sometime this winter. Right now I have a set of drums with ball bearings back on it and they seem to be good. But I would sure appreciate knowing about that article if you can find it.
I appreciate your help.
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Big M Automotive? ... Seems like it might be well worth a little road trip.
Definitely looks like a road trip is in order. They may even have a 52 with an oil filter and you can get the entire canister.
Speaking of which, have you tried Ken Reeves for one? He is very knowledgeable and may be able to advise if you need a part and provide the same.
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Reatta's are definitely collectible. Lots of interesting info in that post Barney. Thanks!
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Does your car have Cruise control? And if so, does it work right? If not, pull the vacuum line off and plug it with a golf tee, then try the A/C .
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Not trying to be funny at all. I am suggesting changing the engine till such time the car is a valued collector car. I think the '70 Buick 350 is a good engine, capable of much more power than most people expect. And it should be a bolt in on that car since the 231 V6 is a derivative of the 350.
And I also know, from personal experience with my 78 Wagon, that these cars handle very nicely, and the Turbo 350 trans makes a big difference in terms of performance.
I did presume that the V6 is tired given the asking price, and that the car would need additional work mechanically and cosmetically. But I like the trim treatment on these, and I just figure this car could be altered today, keeping it all Buick, without major changes that would prevent it from being returned to stock later on.
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I just love happy Buick stories. Congratulations on rebuilding the pump. Not many people would even try to do that.
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I've never had one of these cars so I don't know for certain, but it stands to reason that there ought to be some form of seal at any bolt hole in the oil filter canister. The canister should be under pressure so the hole is sure to leak without one. Just what it is made of, however, would be pure speculation on my part. And I would guess that it was a rubber gasket capable of being manipluated hundreds of times.
If you cannot find one I would suggest going to your local Auto parts store and checking to see if they have any suggestions for replacements, and if not, I'd buy a sheet of gasket material ( the thickest one I could find) and I'd cut my own to see if it would work.
Did someone say the oil filter was an option on this model? If so, and the canister leaked, I'd consider removing it, and then going with a non detergent oil till I could get a replacement for that washer.
PS: you might even be able to find something suitable at a good hardware store. One of the ones in my area boasts about their selection of automobile hardware.
ps: Great car. That looks like a lot of fun. And your son looks like a future Buick car guy behind that wheel.
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That's certainly collectible Brian. And Dan's car is too. Here's a few more in my area from some non BCA members:
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I forgot about the leaf springs but that would seem to make this conversion simpler. I guess the bigger issue would be width, since the Skylark does not have full wheel well openings.
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I doubt we will see the last three John. These folks belong to the car club that runs the spring Rhinebeck meet and one of their annual trips is to the Bennington show. I do not expect they will join us from there.
But I am wondering where the other cars are? I hope no one thinks this thread is restricted to just my pictures. It would be great to see pics from all over on this thread.
66 Skylark high idle
in Buick - General
Posted
I agree with NTX, sounds like one or more of the throttle rods were bent when you tried to push past the sticking throttle. If you have a manual for the car you really need to study how to adjust those rods. There's so many carbs out there, and so many applications, it's impossible to tell you how to fix this problem with any degree of confidence. If you are unable to reference any such material I suggest you contact CARBKING on these forums and see what he can recommend.