JohnD1956
-
Posts
15,793 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
109
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by JohnD1956
-
-
I would recommend removing and cleaning the ends on the thin braided ( uninsulated) ground cables which are usually at the back of the heads and go from the motor to the firewall.
-
The oil filter looks great! Nice job!
"I removed both bolts that ostensibly keep that support held to the chassis (broke one in the process- the nut was utterly frozen on the threads). Since bolts are easy to come by, I wasn't worried. But the support didn't easily come loose from the chassis. I tried gently prying underneath the rubber strip/washer area on both sides, but they seem firmly adhered. "The picture in this thread seems to show the washer in the side of the frame is some sort of bushing. I may be wrong about that but it would require closer inspection to determine. If it is a bushing ( metal sleeve going through the frame) you probably have to work that washer/bushing out gently prying each side a little at a time.
"Also, I don't know why the engine won't start-"
Lots of possibilities here. First I'd look for a broken wire from the negative terminal of the coil, to the distributor. Then I'd check the general area around each thing I removed and replaced. If nothing stands out then I'd try dumping a little bit of raw gas down the carb and kicking it over. Hopefully it would show somesign of life. If not though, I'd check back here with an update.
"oh, and the exhaust pipe that connects to the manifold is "wiggly". Should it be? "
No. But if you try to tighten it now you'll surely bust another bolt. I'd stick to one thing first, like getting the engine running again and checking the oil filter for leaks. Then I'd soak the manifold bolts in PB blaster everyday for a week and try to remove them in favor of some new one.
"And I still can't get the trunk open." :mad:
That is a real stumper. I would definitely try to get in through the cardboard behind the back of the rear seat.
-
Interesting information. Not at all what I thought would have been the process.
Of course, I think striking anything, even with a rubber mallett, is less desireable than pressing the parts in some fashion. I helped a friend put new bushings in his lower control arms this summer and he did so by using a suitable sized "punch" ( in this case a cast iron pipe fitting on one side and two wooden blocks to create a hollow back on the other) and then squeezing them into place between the jaws of a sturdy bench vise. I don't know if something like that would be beneficial in a case like this?
Still, many thanks for your replies, information, and pictures, Tom. Maybe I'll get a chance to see this set up in the future.
-
Wow, that is a great idea!
-
I agree with NTX, sounds like one or more of the throttle rods were bent when you tried to push past the sticking throttle. If you have a manual for the car you really need to study how to adjust those rods. There's so many carbs out there, and so many applications, it's impossible to tell you how to fix this problem with any degree of confidence. If you are unable to reference any such material I suggest you contact CARBKING on these forums and see what he can recommend.
-
Dave Coco...what a great collection of cars!
-
Tom, Thanks for the photo. May I ask what the assembly prodcess would be for the piston pin and the clamp bolt? It would seem the pin should be inserted into the rod, and then the bolt and then the piston
-
Interesting. What's the story on the 50 Super Convertible?
-
I did use the wrong termionology.
I do not know what that costs, but I'm certain smaller parts are not going to break the bank, especially when you save the time of having to re-do them in the future.
-
And a third one in the background too?
-
Can't blame you for that John. Here's a few photos of the event.
-
How did you get them out without distoring them? I was thinking of trying a 3 point puller but have not attempted it yet.
-
Maybe I used the wrong terminology? Anyway as I know it, plasticoting is a process where the part is stripped of all existing paint and then finished with a paint made of plastic beads. I do not know the formal process but the plastic beads stick through an electrostatic process, and then the part is baked in an oven, where the plastic beads flow out and form the top coat. Some people have had entire frames redone like this and the coating is vitrually indestructable.
The fan paint on my 56 has deteriorated and is full of poc-holes, not to the point of rusting, but just enough that when I wipe it down you can feel the rough surface on the blades. Plasticoating would prevent this.
-
It seems to me the fan ought to be painted. ...
The more I think about it, I think every fan I recall seeing on the straight 8s was painted.
If ever there was a part that should be plasticoted, the fan is it. I painted my 56's but it seems to have taken quite the beating while in use.
-
Too bad about that valley cover Bill. It was quite unique. But it's still an awesome Super.
-
I would still try to spin the motor by hand to see if it is locked up. With the breaker bar you could turn the engine forwards and backwards. If you are unable to turn it, pull all or most of the plugs out to reduce compression. If it won't spin when the plugs are out then something must have gone wrong with the clutch.
One of the BCA members had a cracked bellhousing on his 50. I think he said he had a lot of clutch chatter before it actually broke all the way.
-
Another thought is maybe you had the jack under the oil pan inadvertantly, and crushed it so a crank journal is hitting it now?
-
It would be hard to imagine the starter turning fine without the flywheel spinning UNLESS: the solenoid has become disconnected.
Have you tried to turn the engine by hand with a socket on the harmonic balancer? That would immediately tell you if the engine is free or stuck.
If it's free to turn, then I'd imagine you would have to pull the starter.
If it's not free, check back for more suggestions, as there could be multiple sources of problems.
-
Any chance you could include some pictures of what's described here? This is among the things I know nothing about, but would love to learn.
-
Thanks SE. Dandy Dave suggested going to a local bearing shop and inquiring if there are stock items available, and I plan to do this sometime this winter. Right now I have a set of drums with ball bearings back on it and they seem to be good. But I would sure appreciate knowing about that article if you can find it.
I appreciate your help.
-
Big M Automotive? ... Seems like it might be well worth a little road trip.
Definitely looks like a road trip is in order. They may even have a 52 with an oil filter and you can get the entire canister.
Speaking of which, have you tried Ken Reeves for one? He is very knowledgeable and may be able to advise if you need a part and provide the same.
-
Reatta's are definitely collectible. Lots of interesting info in that post Barney. Thanks!
-
Does your car have Cruise control? And if so, does it work right? If not, pull the vacuum line off and plug it with a golf tee, then try the A/C .
-
Not trying to be funny at all. I am suggesting changing the engine till such time the car is a valued collector car. I think the '70 Buick 350 is a good engine, capable of much more power than most people expect. And it should be a bolt in on that car since the 231 V6 is a derivative of the 350.
And I also know, from personal experience with my 78 Wagon, that these cars handle very nicely, and the Turbo 350 trans makes a big difference in terms of performance.
I did presume that the V6 is tired given the asking price, and that the car would need additional work mechanically and cosmetically. But I like the trim treatment on these, and I just figure this car could be altered today, keeping it all Buick, without major changes that would prevent it from being returned to stock later on.
36 Buick Information
in Buick - General
Posted
Our Chapter Membership Chair was contacted by someone asking for information about their 36 Buick.
Can anyone help decode the following from the Vehicle ID tag?
Buick Motor Co 1936 M
Style 36-4411
Body 11854
Paint 431
Trim 245
Thanks for your assistance.