JohnD1956
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Posts posted by JohnD1956
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Joe, the "guest" last posted Sept 2001.
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Considering the long life vs the cost, I imagine the paint is really not that much more expensive than household paint. What settings did you use on your gun ( old vs new) ?
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Budd, My car's problems were front end, not rear. I do have to wonder if the out of round situation maybe was a clearance problem? But why only one side??? Right now everything is stored away for the winter so I won't be able to check on my spare drums for a few weeks.
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Most likely that is the problem. You probably need to keep flexible fuel line there for vibration of the engine in the frame. Just pull the hose out and then slip a piece of fuel line over the flared end of the existing fuel line. Then clamp it down to seal the hose to the lines.
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Being totally unaware of the difference in the Roadmaster Brake drums vs the other series, when I had issues with broken wheel bearings on my Super, I pulled out a set of Roadmaster drums I had and used them on my Super without any clearance issue. One drum was really out of round though, so I used the one good Super drum and the one good Roadmaster drum. I drove the car about 40 miles this past weekend and did not notice any issues with the steering or braking.
Just my personal experience here.
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Maybe it's one of those damned "widgets" they always talked about in Accounting 101?
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Woodcrest Ave in White Plains. Then I moved to Hillside lake in Wappingers falls.
Small world, isn't it?
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I
After having raised this issue with some other folks I think there's two different ways to test what's going on:
- Test the pump: drop the rubber line from the pump directly into a small supply of gasoline- if there's any proper suction at all it shouldn't take much effort for it to be propelled to the carburetor (First Born's idea- thanks).
- Artificial Respiration: Assuming the pump's okay, disconnect the line into the carb and feed gas from an alternate source directly down a barrel and start the engine. Keep the alternate supply going until, finally, the line to the carb emits gas.
... the operating theory of the second method is that the rebuilt pump is okay and will eventually suck up the fuel from the tank, but it needs help, and just plain ol' cranking off the battery isn't going to be enough.
Thoughts?
For me this raises the question of how long did you crank it to try and start it? I automatically assumed you cranked it for at least three to six seconds several times. If not, you could try dripping a small amount of fuel directly down the carb throat while everything is hooked up, and see if it starts and runs on it's own eventually. Again, I would try this only a few times ( like 5 or less) with only a small amount of gas down the carb, like no more than one or two ounces each time.
If you disconnect the fuel line to confirm supply you're liable to have quite a spill on your hands if the system does pump the fuel eventually. And if the car starts and continues to run, then there would be no reason to question the fuel lines or pump.
- Test the pump: drop the rubber line from the pump directly into a small supply of gasoline- if there's any proper suction at all it shouldn't take much effort for it to be propelled to the carburetor (First Born's idea- thanks).
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Retirednow. You're in Putnam Valley? Where? I grew up in Westchester.
Also I agree w/ Mr. Earl. That car is too unique to hide.
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If it were my car, I would be wondering about that copper fuel line. Was that original? or was it something someone fabricated afterward? Also, would the fuel line be solid right up to the fuel pump on the engine? I see you have rubber hose in there now, but if there was a solid line up to the engine it seems to me that the line would be flexing quite a bit and you could still have a crack in the line, allowing the pump to suck air.
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Ok, it's a project. But it's a 52 , a Super, and a ragtop! How sweet it is!
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Can't see too much in that picture but I can see it's Buickful! Nice find.
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retirednow! Oh man! how about some pictures of that Super. You're a lucky guy to have found such a car!
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I understand what your saying thriller, but there's a world of difference between 61-63 Specials and 64-65's. I'm sure a 65 special could have a set of bucket seats, but I'm also sure it would be the exception rather than the rule. Meanwhile, other than a 4 dr, I'm not sure they even made a bench seat for a 62. Of course I bow to those in the know.
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I'm thinking a 73-75 "A" body ( Skylark, Cutlass, Malibu,Grand-Am).
I have not done this but may I suggest looking at Legendary Auto Interiors web site? They do a lot and maybe you can find a similar pattern to what's shown in the picture.
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Have you pulled the plugs in the area to see if they have any antifreeze on em? I'm thinking head gaskets here.
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Bob, that does not look like a 65 seat to me. 65's would not have had a head rest. Plus I believe the custom foam cushions were not employed till after 1970, possibly as early as 1973.
When I redid the seat on my 69, there was a layer of waxed burlap on the springs, then a layer of cotton padding then a layer of foam.
Plus, wouldn't the Special have had a bench seat?
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Kaycee, I have a NOS moulding which appears to be a fender skirt moulding but I can't determine what it belongs to. With a part number is it possible to look that up?
the part # is 8783976 R.H.
Thanks for any information possible
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Brian, PM sent. I could not send the message directly to your E mail for some undescribable reason.
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Hey Lamar, what-ch going to do with that 56 Switch? I know someone who may be interested in acquiring the same if it should be available.
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Its and X-code manifold, its 1/2" higher than a stock and the carbs are spaced 1/2" further apart. Its going on a 425 in a 65 Wildcat...5-speed
Ted, what's the advantages to the 1/2 differences?
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Assuming NTX 5467 is correct, that the wiring did not change much on cars of a particular era, I just looked in my 69 Service manual and one possibility is a short between your voltage regulators # 4 terminal ( Brown wire) and the orange/blk wire going to the heater motor. These two wires go through the body electrical harness on adjacent ports. If you have any rust issues on your cowl in this area, or a leaky front windshield, I'd recommend pulling the fuse panel off and separating the body harness to clean and ensure the terminals are not compromised.
And by way of information, inside the car, it appears there is a #14 brown wire which goes from the fuse to the blower switch. This might have been compromised by someone, at some time, with the #10 Brown wire coming from the ignition switch to the fuse panel. Also, under the hood there is a second orange/blk wire going to the wiper. Although the same color, these two wires have different paths and ports and are not intersected as far as I can tell.
Good luck.
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I'd agree with Keith. This may be a wheel bearing which will eventually turn to a grind noise. I know a GM trained mechanic who told me wheel bearings will sound worse and worse over time, but actually, will not fail. I know one of my boys drove a bad front one at least several thousand miles and it was still rolling when he drove the hulk to the junkyard.
If the exhaust is generally quiet, and not leaking, I'd leave it alone even if it was customized. Best I recall, the pipe should have had a hangar welded to it about midstream and then been suspended by one or two thick rubberbands to hooks welded to the floorboards. Maybe the pipes hangar broke off and can be reconstructed?
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Wow! What a sweet car! I love the way it looks right now, blackwalls and all. What's the interior like, and ..is it a another stick shift?
What can I say?!!
in Buick - General
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IT is unfortunate when the cost to stay in the hobby drives the middle income guy out. But isn't this the dream of everyone here? Buy a lifetime opportunity and make a fortune re-selling it?