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JohnD1956

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Posts posted by JohnD1956

  1. Yes, that's the little Regal Sommerset I miss from that thread on the general forum. IT was a cool little car. great radio, super gas milage, factory 5 speed but a 2.5 4 cylinder. Still, with the stick shift it was a fun car. A pillar rot cost me a windshield and a warning that the new windshield would probably suffer the same fate caused me to let it go.

  2. Gee, and I also miss the 66 GranSport I had with a factory 4 speed and factory air. Damn, now that I think of it I also miss that tiny Regal Sommerset T type with the five speed too. Especially now since that little thing got slightly better than 40 mpg on the highway.

  3. I'm glad they work too, I really did not feel like tearing into wiring outside in a northeast winter. I knew there were two flashers all along, but what threw me off was that you can feel the clicking action of each flasher in both units at the same time. Without reading the manual I guessed the wrong flasher first. Not much of a defense, but it's what happened.

    Meanwhile I was amazed at some of the other suggestions posted here by others. Things I did not even consider. Sure makes the forum that much more valuable.

  4. 1936 BUICK VICTORIA TOURING COUPE - only 2,400 made , so

    this is a "survivor" -- 35,000 original miles - 80 to 90 % all original

    - registered and insured - driven 5 miles a week to keep everything

    lubricated and working. Have paperwork AND all parts that have been

    replaced. New tires new brakes etc. Asking $14,500 but will consider offers.

    Ed Wagner

    25 Valencia Lane Clifton Park

    ewagner1@nycap.rr.com

    (518) 371 1069

    post-31834-143138395477_thumb.jpg

    post-31834-143138395488_thumb.jpg

    post-31834-14313839552_thumb.jpg

  5. Well, it turns out I mistakenly replaced the flasher for the 4 way unit instead of the one for the signal lights. Luckilly I saved the original flasher when I did this and it was interchangeable with the signal flasher.

    For those who are interested, the two flashers are attached to the fuse box in this year, and the 4 way flasher is the one in the upper left corner ( the hard one to replace I might add.) The signal flasher is the one in the lower right corner.

    I should have checked my manual before I changed the flasher originally. Closed books impart no knowledge.

    Once again, thanks for the assistance with all your responses.

  6. Thanks for these ideas. I have checked the sockets, but I have a coat of white lithium in each and none show a sign of corrosion. ( does anyone think it could be this grease causing the problem???)

    When I removed the wiring harness for the tow hitch I merely cut the wires and capped the ends. Today I eliminated the aftermarket connection for the ground. The flasher worked longer but is still erratic. I don't know if you should hear the click and the lights flash at the same moment, but today I could hear the click and see the flash separately. I think I will try another new flasher just in case. They are certainly cheap enough.

    I'll take another look at the bulbs too. And I still have to get that other rear panel off to see if there is a second ground in the back. Thanks again for the ideas.

  7. NTX, What you said is interesting in that the erratic pulsing of the unit exhibited the following quirks.

    While I was working on it today without the motor running, more than once the flasher would work for five cycles and then stop, with the unit in connect mode ( so the signal light was on). Switching the signal lever to the other directional resulted in no flashing , just the light on. Later, on an errand run, the signals alternated, sometimes only flashing 5 times, other times flashing more. So it sort of follows what you said about low voltage.

    I did find a separate section in the manual about trouble shooting this and that section indicates a possible loose connection at the connector on the steering column. Another thing not so easy to get to in this particular car. It suggests attaching a new switch for testing before dismantling the steering column. I will begin looking for a new switch.

    I did find the ground on both sides in the front. Being a wagon, the convenient ground in the rear was in the spare tire well. That opposite interior panel back there is not so easy to get off, but I'll take a shot getting it out to check for another grouond back there too..

  8. My 78 wagon has developed an oddity, and I'd appreciate any suggestions from the community.

    The turn signals used to work as expected. But this fall they began to operate eratically. They go on and flash, but while in use they slow down and even stop occasionally. You can see in the indicator that the pulse is off as well as they slow down. There will be an intermittent flash which is represented on the dash indicators as well as the external bulbs. The factory 4 ways work perfectly.

    Here's what I've done so far:

    Replaced the flasher unit. removed the tow hitch wiring connection entirely. Cleaned and reset all the grounds and made sure I had all the correct bulbs. I also inspected all the wiring thats visible and nothing is cut or indicating any short or arcing. According to the manual there is no relay in the circuit, just the signal light switch in the column, the flasher, and the wiring.

    Any ideas?

  9. Who was it on this forum who had wood blocks topple over and nearly crush him? Even though stacked as described sounds safe, I would trust metal jack stands more than stacked wood blocks. If height is the issue, maybe get some of the big equipment jack stands.

    Considering the inherent danger here, this is one item where cost should know no bounds to get it right.

  10. Bryan, this car requires some additional research. As Paul says, you should verify which engine it has. I believe it will have the Olds 307 which is not exactly a powerhouse. Further it may be running a 2:48 rear axle which when used on the highway provides higher gas milage at the risk of anemic performance.

    Paul, I had a 78 electra with the 4 speed overdrive and that 2:48 rear axle. To be brutally honest, I grew to hate the car. I would never pull out to pass anyone as it just did not want to go. Often I had to pull the shift to drive to get up hills. Meanwhile the 78 wagon I have has a Buick 350 with the turbo 350 trans and a 2:78 rear axle and is a world of difference.

  11. John,

    Take it from a guy who removed all of the undercoating from the bottom of a car, then decided to drive it all over the place. Don't do it if you don't need to. My car gets really hot driving in the Texas heat. As far as the rear fender wells, they CAN be powerwashed then sprayed with a light coat of black spray paint to freshen them up. Remember, only a mechanic looking under you car will ever see the underside of your car. For judging purposes (if that is the desired outcome) clean the undercoating from the frame rails and crossmember, and paint it black. I don't know the extent of AACA chassis judging, but the most important thing in BCA judging is cleanliness IMO.

    Obviously, when rust through is an issue on floorpans, etc. you will need to clear the undercoating from that area.

    Yes, Thanks Mike. This makes sense to me, even here in the Northeast. Luckilly I do not have a floorpan rust through issue. But I do have rust through starting just in front of the rear wheelwells.

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