JohnD1956
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Posts posted by JohnD1956
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Dale, just ask one of your buddies to sneak it on the next westbound UPS truck. It's small and will fit no problem...
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Another SUPER car!!!
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If it is a 2-dr. post (post between front and rear side windows when they are all rolled down) it is a '61; if no post, it is a '62. ...Pete Phillips, BCA #7338
Sherman, TX
The picture from the advertisement shows what Pete is talking about. Note on the drivers door the window is open, but there is a full window frame. I never even noticed this before. Thanks Pete.
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Pete is the man with this stuff, and being a prior owner, has insights I never could imagine.
In my opinion, here's the main thing to be careful of:
Many folks today will want to rip out the original engine and tranny and replace it with generic GM ( ie:Chevy) stuff. They will argue for economy, reliability and parts accessibility. While in general they do have a point, everytime they do that it will strip the car of it's heritage, which would be a shame.
A lot of folks will claim the dynaflo tranny in there is a slush bucket and slow, I can tell you from personal experience with my 56 Super, that they are dead wrong. The Dynaflo is pretty much a Constant Velocity transmission and it moves the big ole 56 effortlessly. Maybe it won't burn rubber off the line, but it can cruise with the pack all day long and come back for more. Further, by the time it got to your car it was the beneficiary of many years of added research and development, and it will perform most reliabily under most conditions.
As for that Aluminum V8, it is a different animal, as Pete mentioned. Regardless of if you join the BCA or not, please feel free to come here for recommendations on re-builders who know Buick engines, and do not just let any shop take on the project. There are people who know your car and can do it up right the first time. However, you need to realize that some Buick stuff is a lilttle more expensive up front.
So, don't let them talk you out of the original stuff too fast. Once again Buicks were very reliable cars, and when your's is back in shape, you'll be surprised at the power and economy that the Buick Engineers designed into the product.
Good luck and we'll be watching for updates as you progress.
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Not mine. Listed on Team Buick:
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I have had starters that work cold and then seem to object to turning over when warm. That is usually taken care of with a rebuild, and whatever goes on there. I've never rebuilt one myself so I can't be more precise about what is actually wrong, but I have experienced this abnomaly from time to time.
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Hi Dale, and welcome to the world of Buicks. That looks like a car that needs a bit of work but with it's sentimental value and it's original color combo, I bet it would be an awesome car restored. I know I like those 61's and they have quite a following among the members of the Buick Club of America. You have joined I presume? If not, you may want to give it some consideration as there are many Buick only vendors who advertise with us and they would be the first place most of us go to find various parts.
Of course we would be really interested to follow your Buick story and progress on the Me and My Buick part of these Forums. So how about giving us some more information about your particular car. For example:
I assume it is the small block V8? Is it an automatic or Stick Shift? How long has it been sitting? And where has it been sitting? Does it roll? And how experienced a mechanic are you? Also how about some interior photos. Things like this will enable forum members to jump in with timely advice.
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If you have a compressor I'd pump it up to about 30 lbs and then blow the air back through the lines to the tank. If you hear no gurgling then you're either looking at a broken line or you're still below the pickup. Put another gallon of gas in and try again.
Of course, if you have gurgling right off then replace the fuel pump. Chances are it would go sooner than later anyhow.
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Sounds like the car hates your house. Paint the garage a new color.
Sorry, I couldn't think of much else, except the timing is too far out of spec causing a large draw to crank the engine and a potentially weak cell in the battery.
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Gee John, we're trying to recruit this guy and you already want him to sell???
Just joking.
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That one on E bay sounds like a good price. I would be careful of the e bay one. Mine is about 7 years old and works great so I have no plans to remove it anytime soon. The only reason I would is if it was damaged in some way.
I googled Tebfa last night and discovered there is one company retailing these for about $100.00 apeice plus shipping and handling. Sounds expensive, but so is pulling your radiator a second time within weeks, for another cleaning session at the radiator shop. One of my personal experiences that was very irritating.
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Good. It would be nice to see someone pick it up and bring it back.
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Thanks Stuart. I appreciate the help.
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Glenn Tyler's 55 Century ( which was super sweet!!!)
Emery Turners 78 Electra
Don Sayer's 62 Lesabre
and for the next three pictures, I'd like to introduce you to Mike and Nick Vogel, with their awesome father /son collection, a 71 GS, a 72 GSX, and an 87 GN. Oh, the 72 is Nick's car.
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Tony and Gloria Vespoli's Skylark
Sharon Poupart, with her and Ron's 52 Estate Wagon
Phil and Rosa Racco's 72 Electra
Mark and Jane Czoschke ( and family's) 53 Special
John And Pauline Contois with their pair of Wildcats ( note, the 64 is a 4 speed car)
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When you get your radiator back see if you can get a filter for the antifreeze. I have one that is cut into my upper hose. Bought it a number of years ago and can't tell if they are still available. BUT if you cannot find one at your local parts stores that will work, you can cut a piece of panty hose to fit over the upper radiator hose fitting and then reinstall your upper hose. This will keep a lot of that annoying scale and rust from re-entering your newly repaired radiator and clogging it up a second time. Just remember to clean it often.
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I can't buy your car, although I would love to do so. May I recommend you consider advertising it in the BCA magazine? I'm certain someone will pick up on this Super car!
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Our Chapter Membership Chair was contacted by someone asking for information about their 36 Buick.
Can anyone help decode the following from the Vehicle ID tag?
Buick Motor Co 1936 M
Style 36-4411
Body 11854
Paint 431
Trim 245
Thanks for your assistance.
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I would recommend removing and cleaning the ends on the thin braided ( uninsulated) ground cables which are usually at the back of the heads and go from the motor to the firewall.
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The oil filter looks great! Nice job!
"I removed both bolts that ostensibly keep that support held to the chassis (broke one in the process- the nut was utterly frozen on the threads). Since bolts are easy to come by, I wasn't worried. But the support didn't easily come loose from the chassis. I tried gently prying underneath the rubber strip/washer area on both sides, but they seem firmly adhered. "The picture in this thread seems to show the washer in the side of the frame is some sort of bushing. I may be wrong about that but it would require closer inspection to determine. If it is a bushing ( metal sleeve going through the frame) you probably have to work that washer/bushing out gently prying each side a little at a time.
"Also, I don't know why the engine won't start-"
Lots of possibilities here. First I'd look for a broken wire from the negative terminal of the coil, to the distributor. Then I'd check the general area around each thing I removed and replaced. If nothing stands out then I'd try dumping a little bit of raw gas down the carb and kicking it over. Hopefully it would show somesign of life. If not though, I'd check back here with an update.
"oh, and the exhaust pipe that connects to the manifold is "wiggly". Should it be? "
No. But if you try to tighten it now you'll surely bust another bolt. I'd stick to one thing first, like getting the engine running again and checking the oil filter for leaks. Then I'd soak the manifold bolts in PB blaster everyday for a week and try to remove them in favor of some new one.
"And I still can't get the trunk open." :mad:
That is a real stumper. I would definitely try to get in through the cardboard behind the back of the rear seat.
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Interesting information. Not at all what I thought would have been the process.
Of course, I think striking anything, even with a rubber mallett, is less desireable than pressing the parts in some fashion. I helped a friend put new bushings in his lower control arms this summer and he did so by using a suitable sized "punch" ( in this case a cast iron pipe fitting on one side and two wooden blocks to create a hollow back on the other) and then squeezing them into place between the jaws of a sturdy bench vise. I don't know if something like that would be beneficial in a case like this?
Still, many thanks for your replies, information, and pictures, Tom. Maybe I'll get a chance to see this set up in the future.
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Wow, that is a great idea!
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I agree with NTX, sounds like one or more of the throttle rods were bent when you tried to push past the sticking throttle. If you have a manual for the car you really need to study how to adjust those rods. There's so many carbs out there, and so many applications, it's impossible to tell you how to fix this problem with any degree of confidence. If you are unable to reference any such material I suggest you contact CARBKING on these forums and see what he can recommend.
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Dave Coco...what a great collection of cars!
56 Special Heater core removal/replacement
in Buick - Post War
Posted · Edited by JohnD1956 (see edit history)
I replaced the one on my 56 Super without removing the fender, but don't know if the Special is the same. I did remove the fan motor and housing for clearance inside the fender well, and of course the bolts came out from inside the car, allowing it to fall away. I stuffed an old blanket under the unit to keep it from dropping too far. And then I was able to lift it right up, twist it and it was out. Once out, there was a half flap on the interior side of the box which came off with 4 screws, then there were some screws from the back side through the housing into the core. The last picture below shows some of those holes for the heater core fastners.
I included a pic of the rope caulk I got from the hardware store, which I used to reseal the unit to the cowl. Seemed to be the same stuff I scraped off before repainting the housing.