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JohnD1956

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Posts posted by JohnD1956

  1. It appears the writer is refering to a core plug at the end of the oil galley, not a core ( freeze) plug for the coolant. The picture Ben included shows that the bell housing is in the lower skirt of the block and it appears that the antifreeze/coolant would be above the top line of the bell housing.

    Note: I never personally inspected or owned one of these so I definitely could be wrong. But it would not make any sense to have a core plug for coolant right behind the end of the cam shaft.

  2. Unless you're racing the car, Fram should be good enough, although I personally use only A/C Delcos.

    You obviously have oil pressure so this is for future reference. The manuals all recommend packing the oil pump with pertroleum jelly ( vaseline) in order to effect a prime of the pump. Hasn't failed me yet.

  3. Like I said, the door was repaired incorrectly in the past so it was not a surprise to see this. That brown underneath is bondo, which is also ready to drop off the door. I noticed the car is painted all tan and then the wood grain is applied, That impacts the tone of the woodgrain.

    I don't know what I'm going to do about that door yet. I want to put new brake lines on and need the new shocks before worrying about the body work. Plus it's the end of summer so I'll look for a different door over the winter, and fix that in the spring.

    re the pictures: Joe, use the "go advanced" button under the quick reply box. Then look towards the bottom of the page and you'll see a smaller box that says manage attachments. Click there and a window opens allowing you to upload pics from your pc.

  4. I thnk this is fairly common and Smartin gave good advice. I just wanted to add that I doubt the roughness you feel, till the light goes out, is related.

    As you may know, the oil pump is hanging off the timing chain cover and it draws oil from almost the back of the oil pan. So those few moments with the light on are virtually impossible to prevent. But the light on does not mean there is 0 pressure, or no oil flow. If that was the case I'm certain you'd have a rod knock by now.

  5. I can see your point. I did like the way you improvised with the A/C Outlets. Could have looked that way if the manufacturer thought about it. I even like the colors you chose. And I'm sure those Hot Rod guys would only want to see a Chevy motor in there. Thanks for keeping the original drive train.

    I'd be interested in how the Special performs with the vintage Air and more shots of how that was installed.

  6. I enjoyed the trailer and the video for the 4th episode, and would ask for you to include more detail on the work involved. I also presume additional editing is in store as I noticed in one segment for the Transmission part the segment centers on the 50 Ford Pickup that the company built.

    And by the way, here is one other thing that may or may not provoke an argument. Can you really call the car "restored "when you cut the dash to add "vintage air A/C", and changed the color combination and pattern, and the interior colors too? I personally think it is a misnomer. But that's just me.

    As for watching the show, I might consider it, but mostly because of the subject car. I don't know how much I would watch if it were something else being built. Just giving my opinion here.

  7. Paul, Great car, and good advice on the A/C system. The main problem in NY is the absense of R12. I see alot of other stuff at the NAPA store claiming to be R12 friendly, but I wonder if you can use this stuff as a stand-alone refrigerant, or if it really is sufficient. By the way, my NAPA store says they can still get new A6 Compressors.

    Doug, your dash is perfect. Much nicer than mine. The extra switch I have is the passenger door remote miror, which is controlled by the same 3 cable set up as the drivers door mirror. Those cables are LOONNNNGGGG. As for the antenna, my car does have the power antenna ( although I should say did, because it broke this past winter) and it is controlled by turning the radio on or off. There is no separate switch for that.

    I did replace my master cylinder yesterday, and painted my booster silver because I had the paint on hand. After I installed the master cylinder and bled the system I shot it with some brake cleaner and then shot it with some clear coat. I just want to see if the clear coat prevents the rust and for how long.

    Next up is replacing the shocks and then repairing or replacing the door on the passengers side.

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  8. Well, that looks quite nice to me. Wish my car was as rust free as yours.

    I am interested in the color of the brake booster. Looks like silver? I plan to paint mine while the MC is off. Is that the right color?

    Also, is there a chance you can get a good picture of the information decal on the radiator shroud? Mine was missing when I got the car.

    What other emissions does you car have on it? I don't see an air pump. Didn't you say it was a California car?

  9. It is so hard to make a reliable estimation but maybe it would help if we disect the points you have presented. Before we start that though, let me suggest a base price I'd consider reasonable for such a car. Knowing it's a T-type, with several expensive repairs on tap, I'd be looking to buy this car for less than $1,500. However, considering

    1) It has 59,000 original miles. I'd say + 500

    2) It was repainted ...The repaint was not very good, the paint is presentable from a distance but not even close to very good. I'd say (-$500 ) or more.

    3) The car is very original, been kept garaged, never been hit, no rust & cloth interior is perfect, I'd say + $400.00

    4) has had regular maintenance like fluids, tires, brakes, spark plugs, filters, battery, I'd say good but it's what expected, I would not add or subtract anything

    5) the only other things replaced were the alternator and the coil pack. Depending on if these were recent replacements I might say + 100.

    6) The climate control functions fine but the A/C no longer blows cold air. I'd say (- 300)

    7) The ABS light stays on but it runs and drives very well and always has, I'd say I might no longer consider the car. I know I had a $750 repair to fix an ABS system in my former 95 Riviera and this being an older system may be unrepairable. Although failure of ABS is not a hinderance to inspections in NY, I would be going crazy with that light on all the time.

    8) everything else electrical works fine. I would not add or subrtract anything as this would be expected.

    This would bring the price of the car to about $1,000.

    Keep in mind that the prices indicated here are my own, regardless of what any print source says. I like these cars and would really like to have one eventually. But I would not want to be making a purchase that would leave me with no equity in the vehicle. And I suggest that the ABS system problem is going to be a huge detraction to most people.

  10. I recieved this message tonight and I am posting it here in case anyone can assist. I don't have a phone number yet to make contact but will post it once I do.

    "Dear Mr. Defiore,

    Greetings form the International Motor Racing Research Center at Watkins Glen, a library and archive in Watkins Glen, NY, as well as BCA member. I have a request that I hope you can help me with: I'm getting married this Saturday in Lake Placid, NY and we've suddenly found ourselves without a "deluxe" form of transportation from the site of the ceremony to the reception, and me having sold my '67 LeSabre last year. Although extremely short notice, would it be possible to locate (should any exist) BCA members in the Lake Placid area who might be available for a brief (less than and hour) ride this Saturday by way of a mailing list, etc.? Of course I'm happy to compensate.

    Many thanks in advance for any assistance that you can offer!

    Mark Steigerwald

    Director, Archives & Administration"

  11. There are many products you can use on the wood. The real trick is to do small patches and polish it all off with the applicator, leaving a small amt of buffing with a clean cloth. On and off as soon as possible. I've even used Kit car wax on it, and that will last a lot longer than one or two rain storms.

    But you guys got me interested in taking the car a bit further. New Master cylinder is on the agenda for this weekend and then I have two places to go look for a new door. I'll try to post a pic of the offending panel tomorrow.

  12. I would have to hide my car under blankets if it were parked next to Doug's.

    I took my wagon to a cruise night this past monday but didn't have time to wash it. So I ran through the "touchless" car wash and it ripped a large chunk of the wood grain off my passengers door. This was unexpected but not upsetting because I bought the car knowing that door was previously damaged and repaired incorrectly. The repair and the wood grain are in horrible shape and I have to start looking for another door with the wood grain. Then I will paint around the edges. Then , maybe, I would uncover it if it was next to Doug's.

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