2seater

I made a piston stop from an old spark plug, gutted, and tapped for a through bolt, which works well. Since there is no timing reference, either a degree wheel or manually marking the damper helps sort things out. Clarification, this engine fires every 120 crank degrees, or 60 cam degrees. It sounds like Fox has a good handle on what to do next. Whatever the reason for the miss, it would have to be fairly substantial if it fouls right away? It would seem a fresh plug would work temporarily unless the cylinder itself lacks the fixins' (technical term) to allow combustion. Just pulling the rear valve cover to observe valve action may reveal something amiss. Broken spring, stuck valve? A vacuum gauge at idle would give a hint.

Well, the engine already has good reliable roller lifters. The cam is designed for roller lifters, and a flat lifter would not operate properly. The camshaft itself would have to be changed to realize a performance increase. I have heard of the rockers being replaced with a higher ratio to get more lift, and maybe an aftermarket roller rocker, but I doubt the bang for the buck would be high. I am guessing that replacing the intake would be referring to the intake hose and associated parts, not the intake manifold itself? This has been done by many people in all different types of forms. There is a smalll increase at maximum power, but much of it comes from the audible impression. In the simplest form, remove the air box and install a cone filter on the end of the stock hose, perhaps extended a bit towards the original inlet opening under the relay center. Don't forget the intake temperature sensor from the air box must be relocated as well. For the record, I have tried all sorts of configurations, all homemade.

In answer to your original post: Yes, the low port is on the dryer and the hi-side under the cover at the firewall.

Well, I don't know what the book says but, it is left hand thread.

Hmm, I haven't tried this, but I would think you can switch plug wires are the common coil to see if the failure follows the switch. It shouldn't make any difference unless the reversing polarity at the spark plug makes a difference. I have a vague recollection that it is harder to fire the plug in one direction vs the other. The other option is to replace the single plug wire to #2 with anything good that can be laid in place for a try. I would sure put a compression gauge on that cylinder if the ignition doesn't help. Is the PCV good? It connects to the intake right at #2 port.

It sounds like an IAC issue with the stalling or perhaps something disconnected/knocked off when the injectors were changed? It's operation may improve slightly as it relearns but as long as the injectors are about the correct flow rating, it shouldn't stall. It should idle without the MAF but everything else may need to be up to par as well. I believe Padgett suggested a snapshot of the sensor readings with it at warm idle.

Dave's explanation makes sense, especially if it may have been overful. The only time I have had "invisible" fluid loss from the transaxle was a blown diaphragm in the vacuum modulator but that wouldn't have the external clues. It does deserve tracking down if that severe, but can be difficult with all of the air currents under the car.

Yes. In my case it was the stabilizer bar bushings at the frame mounts. It doesn't take much movement to get metal-metal contact.

As far as I know, there is a direct replacement type III injector available, although I do not know the part number. Many of the type III have a different electrical connector, EV6, where our injectors us the EV1 pattern. There are adapters readily available should that be an issue.

Yes, it does seem reasonable. I am not quite sure what to make of the variable fuel pressure unless that is under varying conditions. The rated fuel pressure is 43.5 psi with the key on and engine off. Anything over 40 should be fine. When the engine is running it will lower the fuel pressure by approximately 1/2 of the reading on a vacuum gauge, so mid-30's or so is about right for an idling engine. If the vacuum is disconnected from the pressure regulator, it should jump up to over 40, or if the throttle is blipped, the fuel pressure should jump up as well. If it varies when the engine is running steadily, something is wrong. Does the fuel pressure hold for a while after engine shutdown? If an injector is stuck open it will drop steadily or possibly a defect in the fuel pump. You can turn the individual injectors on and off in diagnostics to see if there is a discernable change. I believe you mentioned a rough idle and this may give a clue, especially #2 if that was the plug that was fouled.

Do you have any "old school" tools available, such as a compression gauge and vacuum gauge? A fuel pressure tester isn't really old school, but is good for any more modern vehicle. They will give you a basic idea of the condition of the engine itself. If the engine is sick internally, no amount of external massage will cure it. From your description, it sounds like a dead cylinder for some reason, fuel, spark or compression. A decent compound vacuum gauge, can double as the exhaust backpressure gauge but you also need an adapter to install in place of the O2 sensor. Disconnecting the MAF while running may indeed cause a stall, but if disconnected prior to starting, it should start and run.

Ronnie, I will not try to match the eloquence of the previous posts. I will simply ask that you reconsider. I know a fair amount about a small area, you know a lot about a wide range of topics. This is not to slight anyone else here, there are many helpful and knowledgeable people, but you are one of the most consistant responders. We needja man. It is your decision of course. Hal

IMHO the best replacement for the front speakers is another component speaker system. They don't need a lot of power handling capacity, 40 watts or so should be plenty, with a factory style radio, but high efficiency is a good idea. Something like 90db @ 1 watt or better. I used Polk brand component speakers in the front and Pioneer 6x9 in the rear, but that was many years ago so model numbers have certainly been superceded.

Definitely the brake pump you hear under the hood, just as Ronnie said. Fuel pump is easier to hear at, or near, the rear, and it only runs for 2-3 seconds at key on. The best diagnostic tool for fuel supply diagnosis is a fuel pressure gauge. Harbor Freight and others have for not a lot of money. May be available at a FLAPS to borrow. If the pressure doesn't jump right up to the 40 psi range at key on, the relay may be bad as mentioned. A different sort of workaround is to jumper 12v+ to the green female spade connector that should be around the area of the brake master cylinder or closer to the fender. It may require a little hunting. Jumper 12v to the connector to force the fuel pump to run prior to the first start when the problem occurs and see if that helps. If it does, odds are the fuel pump isn't priming as it should.

I don't remember seeing the year, but it sounds like a '90 or earlier. If that is the case, 50 mph in 4th gear and TCC locked, should be about 1000 rpm lower, like 1400-1500 rpm? On my '90, 2000 rpm is 72 mph locked up, 2500 is 90 mph. You can watch the indicators to see what gear and/or lockup the ECM thinks is happening.

Good suggestions already mentioned but there is another. A common place for the fuel odor to eminate from is a disconnected/loose vacuum line at the charcoal canister under the air cleaner. The hose can sometimes be a little tight or short. Is it worse with a full tank?

No compressor in the Reatta. My '90 FSM is for Reatta/Riviera and air leveling is available in the Riviera. As a matter of fact, I have Riv air struts on the rear.

It's ben done many times. The only issues may be a slight rub on the fender liner at full lock.

The adjustment sounds backwards? It should ratchet when the throttle is pushed to the floor. The casing is pulled back away from the T/B and the cable pulls it back to the correct adjustment when the throttle is pushed. My car is in storage so I cannot verify.

It sounds like we are talking about two different symptoms. The torque converter clutch can lockup in third and fourth gear, so if being very gentle with acceleration it may feel like an extra shift. The signals from the transaxle gear indicator switches and TCC can be monitored in diagnostics to get a more definitive idea of what is actually happening. The TCC can shudder at the lockup point if operation is sticky. Sometimes can be cured with a fluid and filter change. I have not personally tried any sort of trans. oil treatment but it may help if a fluid change doesn't. The actual gear shift points can be modified somewhat by TV cable adjustment. Vacuum modulator modifies shift firmness.

Is the cable adjusted properly? There is a ratchet type mechanism in the mount at the throttle body. If you have the cable off, it is easy to see. You squeeze or press on the release button and pull the outer casing back through the mount. When everything is reinstalled, the cable will self adjust by pressing the throttle to the floor.

Daniel has a point. Used turbochargers are relatively inexpensive and are readily rebuildable for little cost as long as not physically damaged. They work well, but new ones with more modern designs can offer improved performance. A thirty + year old turbo can work just as well today as it did back when it was new, but it won't compete with a ball bearing, ceramic wheel modern version. The original sleeve bearing designs are still available brand new and are more moderately priced. The work I have done is "on the cheap" so to speak, and the old tech. is more than adequate for the modest performance I am seeking. There is generally little to be salvaged from an existing factory turbo offering, except the turbo, wastegate and perhaps some piping. The installation requires a fair amount of fabrication, which I find enjoyable, but it certainly isn't a bolt in. That's the big attraction of transplanting a factory supercharged engine, in part, or the whole thing. It is a proven package that works well, and does bolt in. It is possible to boost almost any engine, it just depends on how it is to be accomplished.

They look very similar to a set of Progessive brand wheels I had back in about '91 or '92. I don't think they are around anymore. They were directional and could be purchased as left or right curve.

Ducting the turbo into the existing intake is relatively straightforward. The old style 3.8 intake is different and will not bolt on. The intake port spacing is completely different. The GN exhaust manifolds are sort of compatible, but the round tubular manifolds for the 3800 are better (IMHO). Neither set will work directly without some re-routing of the exhaust to get to the turbine. In my opinion, the only real space for the turbocharger itself is about where the stock air box is. I have seen installations using the stock crossover pipe to feed the turbo and it looks like a natural. It can work pretty effectively if the stock outlet on the rear manifold is deleted and the #6 exhaust stub is turned to face back toward the crossover rather than the stock outlet. Now if you can figure out how to route the exhaust downpipe from the turbine to the existing exhaust the job is almost done. No matter how I tried, I failed to find a good way to get back through the small openings remaining. My first solution was to fabricate a new rear manifold and route the exhaust across the passengers end of the engine and connect to the front manifold, similar to the stock setup, just reversed. That allowed the downpipe to exit through the space where the original crossover was. This first instalation was "hot air" and compressor was ducted directly to the inlet for the MAF. Response was too good and never got the tuning completely ironed out. Second turbo installation uses only the front manifold for feed to the turbine, with a tighter A/R housing and an air-air intercooler was added as well as a divorced wastegate. Boost is lower than desired @ 4psi max, but the operation is seamless. It will just max. out the air flow reading the MAF is capable of. In any case, the O2 sensor must be relocated to after the turbine and probably the EGR tube as well. It should not be in the high pressure exhaust before the turbine. More development to come, as well as resurecting the first installation with an intercooler. When all is said and done, I don't believe the fwd setup is strong enough to handle all the power a GN was capable of unless many other upgrades are done as well. 240-250 hp used with discretion should lead a fairly long life, and that should only require 1/2 bar of boost or so.

If it is indeed running lean, the ECM should be trying to adjust the fuel feed to compensate. Watch the O2 cross counts, fuel integrator and block learn, ED18, 19 and 20, while driving at the problem speed Cross counts indicate it is changing from rich to lean and back as the system self adjusts, and the higher the number, the better. In the teens or above would be good. The integrator and block learn should center around 128, but may deviate above and below as the system adjusts. If it is significantly high, like 150 on the block learn, it is trying to add fuel long term. I don't remember all the details, so how is the fuel pressure now? Should be in the mid-upper 30's while operating at idle, and 40+ with the vacuum disconnected from the regulator while running or when the key is on and the engine off.