2seater

On a previously rebuilt (by me) 1989 engine, I noticed the oil pressure dropping also. I found a badly worn front cam bearing due to the new style chain tensioner wear (another story previously posted). That is where the oil first enters the engine from the oil pump. I also found odd rod bearing wear, no real damage, but abnormal for 38k miles. I assumed it was from my turbocharging experiments, but perhaps it was also from an oil leak in the cam area?? Certainly worth looking at if no other cause is found.

Padgett, that is pretty much what I came up with doing empirical testing of the cams, but that data sums it up nicely. Kinda defies logic how both engines, which are otherwise identical, can carry the same rating? 1.6 rockers in all cases as mentioned above. In any case, the vin 3 engines are not called the 3800.

Yes, I started this thread to get some input on the quirks to be watched for with our ignition system. Generally reliable, powerful and the faults that may occur are fairly well documented. This all started as a related issue to checking on the rod knock test. Strobe lights can also be used to watch moving parts to see any anomolies that defy static testing, although a variable frequency strobe might be better for that. I would guess that the adjustable advance type light, such as one I have, can move the synch. with moving parts too? That's just random thinking on the subject. The real point was to ask for input on what sort of signal was available from an inductive pickup, and that's seems to be inconsistant, so my inquiring mind wonders why? I think I understand the basic theory, but certainly not the details. Since it is a sort of floating ground, maybe there is a lower amplitude reflection wave bouncing around in there too? I just don't know. I think I remember either lighted plug wires or some sort of piggyback that flashed (neons?) in response to the plug firing which was fun to watch on a running engine but I would imagine a modern system would blow right through them. I digress.

Everything mentioned is certainly correct to check. I believe 1988 was a transition year where some older Vin 3 engines were being used up in some models, while similar, it is not an exact match. While it doesn't make a difference to the compatibility, the camshaft is a little "hotter" than the later models, but still quite mild. I know I have searched high and low for another one and there is no availability for a service camshaft to match the 1988. A later model is what you would get and is completely interchangeable except for a shim plate behind the nose.

The one I have is an Equus. I too was a little concerned with where the arc might go also so I'm not doing that again. The DIS systems are so much more powerfull than the older style, no matter what the style. I will have to get a better handle on my test procedure since near the coil pack is pretty tight and may be picking up adjacent cylinders? It was not completely consistant, that's why I asked for more input. While the timing light really doesn't have any direct use for tuneups, if it works consistantly, it can be used to check for spark where chasing a problem. If it remains flaky in operation, then it would be worse than nothing at all since you would get false/misleading results. The HF spark tester is also a great idea, and very reliable, but the timing light doesn't require anything more than clipping it on? Different ways to skin the cat I guess. It is possible, my memeory is hazy when it comes to the way the lights worked, or, I am thinking of the DIS system on my Ranger, which operates exactly the same. It is more difficult to get to, since it on the top rear of the engine and a 4x4 is higher to boot. I do remember for a fact, that the first time I changed plugs on the Ranger, I could not get matching plugs for one side of the engine at the FLAPS. The plugs were single platinum, but the platinum was on the center electrode on one side of the engine and on the "ground" wire on the other. I imagine the factory did that to save money but still get extended life, all due to the reverse polarity on one side of the coil. The recommended replacement is a double platinum. Strange but 100% true.

I understand the knock thread had been detoured so I started a separate thread. I did a quick test with the two inductive lights I have, one is an Innova and the other an old Sears. In a quick test, the Sears only fires in the correct polarity position on the coil I tested, so it would seem that my statement was incorrect, at least sort of. The Innova also has a tach function, and I did not actually try the timing light itself, but just checked to see if the tach operated. It appears to operate in either direction, despite the polarity arrow. The only peculiarity is it reads double rpm in one direction, as it should, but normal rpm in the other? I certainly don't understand all of the details of how this all works? The other test was to see what happens if a plug wire is disconnected, but the test is somewhat inconclusive. If I pull the wire at the coil pack, the other plug wire does continue to operate, however the open terminal arcs to a mounting screw, so the coil is still going to ground, so I would guess the circuit is still complete? It does kill only the disconnected cylinder, but I do not know if it would still be true if there were no path to/from ground like pulling the wire from the plug itself? The results are somewhat different than what I have found before, so it may be the tight confines of the hookup itself, operator error, or the quality of the instruments themselves? It's more out of curiosity than a serious issue, but if anyone else would try the same test, I would be very interested in the results. I will look at it further when time permits and a cooler engine.

I do understand it fires two plugs at a time, however they are reversed polarity from each other. I guess it would be easy to find out with a timing light to see what actually happens. As far as killing the power stroke on individual cylinders, it can also be done in diagnostic overides by turning the individual injectors on and off.

I've never tried disconnecting one plug wire when running, but don't you lose both cylinders on that coil when you pull one? I'm really not sure, but it would seem that the way it is made, you would. If so, that might lead to a misleading result?

I've not used Seafoam, but in years past I have had good luck with Techron. The alcohol in most gasolines today is actually a pretty good cleaner itself.

The sensor itself, which inserts into the housing, is all that needs to be replaced. Many of us have extra sensors, just for such an occasion. The sensor is not calibrated to the throttle body. It only cares about the flow through the sub-passage where the sensor is located. I have used them with an enlarged throttle body without issue.

MC, I plugged mine on both engines I use and since it is summer only, I have had zero issues. It also makes it way easier to remove the throttle body. The holes are approximately the correct size for a 1/4" npt for the top one on the manifold and 3/8" npt for the lower one. I have had no issues tapping the 1/4" hole, but the 3/8" one on one manifold was apparently somewhat eroded, and the threads were not consistant, so the pipe plug was installed with JB Weld. Once tapped, you aren't going back to the o-ring in any case. I used flush socket head style plugs for a neater look.

Fuel pressure should be low 40's with key on and engine off, or idling with the vacuum disconnected from the regulator. With everything connected and idling, it should be in the mid-upper 30's.

Do you ever get O2 sensor cross counts? After warmup, either accelerate the engine to 1500 rpm or so in park/neutral for maybe 30 seconds or so, or just drive and observe. Either the O2 sensor is asleep from extended idle, defective or if the reading is correct, it is dead rich. Most readings look pretty nominal, but the two fuel indicators are at the top of the range adding fuel. It is somewhat normal for the readings to go toward the high side on an extended idle, but they are at the top. What is your fuel pressure? Poor/erratic idle with poor higher rpm performance sounds like it could be a failing fuel pump or possibly plugged filter. There could be other causes, poor ignition causing misfire which will affect the exhaust O2 quality.

I did forget about the rear stops, so that is a good call. Perhaps the stop on the drivers side is jacked up too high? The reason I mentioned the gas springs is if they were installed backwards and you try to close the hood, it is possible to actually bend the mechanism or the hood itself. It is easy to get them wrong if not careful. I agree with 88 that the body shop should have noticed this on reassembly?

Are both gas springs installed exactly the same?

It would be just out of frame on your photo, on the left side, below the water pump body. It's located on the front engine cover that the water pump is mounted on. It is black, and is a 90* design with the connection facing toward the rear. The sensor is attached with a single bolt and is O-ringed where it inserts in the hole.

Turbochargig can provide more ultimate hp. but it is hard to beat the instant response of the S/C for what you are wanting to do, plus it is fairly well sorted out already. A good modern turbo system has response and hp but they are on more modern engines using variable valve timing and possibly direct injection. I'm sure something could be done for quick spooling but my work has been for moderate boost and seamless operation at reasonable levels to allow the transaxle to live. If not a S/C application, I would suggest a more modern 4-cyl, such as an Ecotec, probably starting with one of the turbo versions and tune it up from there. It would probably get some weight off the front as well.

Greg Ross did the transmission and S/C engine conversion many years ago and had bilions and billions (tnx Carl Sagan) of miles on Betsy Blue. I haven't seen any recent posts?

I have used these guys several times with no issues as well as purchase of some of their electronic components. Actually I have met the owner several times at Buick events. There are certainly other services out there and I would think you would need to contact them if a particuar level of service is needed. Specializing in automotive interconnect and wiring systems Regarding the question of them being needed, I do not know. Since the manifold is drilled straight through, with no sort of step for it to seat against, it would depend on where the O-ring ends up when installed. The cap on the end is quite small, and may not provide enough of a stop to keep the O-ring from being sucked off the end? It is not uncommon for the O-ring to be pulled off the injector when removing after many years of service. I suspect the rings are not commonly available at a FLAPS due to low usage. I have several different styles(brands) of injectors and the stock ones are the only style I have seen personally that use that particular arrangement.

I would think one of the injector reconditioning places could supply what you are looking for. I am assuming you are talking about the end that inserts in the intake manifold? I looked at a stock injector and there are two small spacer rings, one on either side of the O ring. The upper one appears to be solid and somewhat thinner than the the lower split ring. I thought they might be to reduce the clearance between surfaces to compress the O-ring a little more but they just appear to be spacers to locate the O-ring where desired. The metal cap on the end is threaded and can be removed (it is tight or threadlocked) to install non-split rings. You might consider sending a set of injectors out for reconditioning as a spare set and perhaps have the missing part(s) replaced.

If you can keep it running with increased throttle, the IAC as mentioned is possible, or a large vacuum leak as you surmised. A small leak should just raise the idle. The MAF suggestion is excellen as well. A vacuum gauge will give a good idea of a leak or not. Certain the intake manifold is sealed to the head? All plugs to the sensors installed: water temp, IAC, TPS and MAF? It is possible to change the minimum idle speed with the throttle stop screw and nut combination where the throttle arm hits. If so, it will need to be returned to the correct position after fixing the stalling problem. The only way I know of doing so is to force the IAC closed in the overide, disconnect it, and set the stop screw down to about 500 rpm idle, and lock it down. The IAC will pick up the rest to the correct idle speed.

If I remember correctly, on my '90, there is a small camber adjustment bolt facing the outside and above the clamp bolts. It is used to fine adjust the camber and then lock the large clamp bolts in place. It is just an assist for the adjustment and is not large enough to be structural. The assembled struts with spring are called Quick Struts by at least one manufacturer.

It sounds like a long journey has come to a happy conclusion. Happy motoring.

Fox W just changed injectors (see 8 month restoration thread) to Bosch type III I believe. The type III are supposed to have a better spray pattern and possibly better economy. The type III is a very slim body. I have no personal experience with them but have seen several threads on other forums about the benefits. You need a 19# injector @ 3 bar. It happens to be a common size, used on Mustang 5.0's for example. A less expensive alternative is to send the present ones in for reconditioning. They rarely fail, but it is possible to develop deposits that affect the spray pattern. You need an EV1 style electrical connector. I have used several brands, Bosch, Motec, Rochester and Lucas (Accel) in different flow rates. All work but cannot directly compare them.

Hmm, that's hybrid territory. Extra batteries and an electric drive motor somewhere:) Is that indicated or actual computed from fuel usage vs actual miles traveled?