trimacar

I would surely think, as mentioned,a passing comment does not affect the club. The local AACA region in Winchester has a show every year, the club is allowing hot rods, street rods, and restomods. I quit bringing a car to the show due to this, may sound petty on my part, but I don’t want my Pierce parked next to a rusty rat rod. I trust the AACA national won’t head down that road.

Yes, sorry, had numbers mixed up….

Add the cost of replating about half that chrome, and one could buy this instead…not mine, at a dealer in Wichester Va. Not crazy about color, but it’ seems to be a nice car.

Interesting, as usually a scammer asks a price which is enough under market to have someone send a deposit. 90K is a bit more than market, say, twice or thrice? in my opinion.

Congrats on your new acquisition! I'm still guessing 14K, be interesting to see where it ends up. And no, I'm not bidding.

Of course, I'd nit pik the interior. Nothing seems to match, mohair seats and maybe broadcloth panels.

A trio of split windows? Are these advertised anywhere?

I somewhat disagree. There were over a million cars built which qualify as Full Classics. Even now, an entry level Full Classic, running and driving, can be had for under $25K. So, the middle class can't afford that, but they can afford an F-150 or a Silverado at $70K plus? That's not all rich folk driving those expensive new cars around. It's not how much it cost, it's "how much per month". As a friend of mine states, it's a choice. If one were even of modest means, and wanted a Full Classic, there are ways to make it happen. No, the "middle class" usually doesn't own Duesenbergs, but there are lots of other Classics out there (as in the CCCA definition, not modern "classics")

I’m going to venture that the car brings 14K. Parts aside, someone could put it in a two car garage, disassemble carefully, cleaned out body off on one side on sawhorses, start cleaning the frame and laying out engine pieces, and have bragging rights for years in Packard circles. As for nasty interior, I once gutted a Pierce Travelodge, where racoons and possoms had lived. Excrement everywhere, nastiest thing I’ve ever done, bar none. That Packard is a piece of cake. The worst thing about mice and rats, their piss rusts everything.

I agree, Aerocar a better match.

Yesit’s available, sorry I didn’t see your post. Message me and we can work out payment if you want it. Thanks!

If you have someone willing to supply material and modify/install webbing, pay their price and move on. I’ve had people ask me to modify seat belts, usually length related. I tell them no, from a litigation viewpoint. If one modifies belts, an accident injures person wearing that belt, and there’s ANY question about the belt, a good lawyer is going to come after the person who modified them I’ve researched this, since I’ve had the requests. Seat belts fall under rhe National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, and for repaired or aftermarket installations of seat belts, Standard 209 of the safety code. Standard 209 “sets forth strength, elongation, webbing width, durability, and other requirements for seat belt assemblies.” This applies to repair or replacement of original equipment belts, or addition of seatbelts to an older car which did not originally have them. They both must comply with Standard 209. There are other sections, most of which apply to new car installation of belts. Chances of being pulled into court? Slim indeed, but when one looks at the highly litigious society we now live in, not worth the risk.

Buying a car is easy, selling a car takes a lot more effort. Post it in numerous places for sale, including Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, and all the online venues available. Good luck.

The fact that the door opens without falling off is an interesting sign!

A Corbin didn’t have the Packard-like dips on hood/radiator. Elmore did (picture attached of an Elmore). This picture pops up quite often on social media,

The Wright flyer is being towed to the Ft. Myers, Va., airfield for testing. Car is an Elmore, year unknown, but testing was done in 1909, so circa 1908-1909 would be the estimate..

I call the spring assemblies in such cars “mouse condominiums”…..”hey, I’m in third row, three down, come see me sometime!” Enough projects, thanks!

Love the car, but all I can see is checks written outweighing the pleasure. That’s a shame…

Wow, next year one could drive that on to the Hershey show field….wouldn’t THAT throw the rows of cars for a loop…

Excelsior was a certain wood, made into little strands like very thin spaghetti, which acted as a stuffing. Very common in cars 1915-1925.

Sure. The big mistake in pleats is people don’t believe that one needs minimal sewing allowance, they think it needs an inch or two extra to get fullness. Doesn’t work, try some sample pleats first. A lot of factory stuffing for wide pleats was a compressed material, cotton mixed with other materials such as excelsior. Cotton works great and is much less expensive than horsehair, but again, do as you wish, there are no wrong methods if you like the result.

I think you're going to find that the bottom part of the top socket is a casting or a forging, so it's solid up to the point where the tapered tube is attached. It appears to me that the failure is where the tube meets the forging. You'll know more once you take apart, which you have to do regardless of repair method.

I learned a hard lesson from an online auction. Read the fine print and agreement carefully. I bid on a very nice toy, and thought it was a bargain at a little over $300. Then, of course, a 20% auction fee on top of that. 1500 miles away, so had to have it shipped. Added were handling charges, packing, shipping, all of which I was quoted but had no control over. Long story short, the $300 toy cost me over $600. Just make sure you wade into the pool knowing the temperature and depth.

Not a normal way to do so. The Dodge would have wide pleats, easy to sew leather to a backing material (I use cotton muslin) then stuff pleats with cotton batting. Usually two layers of one inch batting work. Mark muslin to width of final pleat, mark leather to that width plus 5/8 inch. Fold leather at marks and gently hammer the creases along the lines, then sew creases to backing material lines. Before sewing, mark a perpendicular line on both leather and backing at end where you’ll start sewing, keep that lined up when starting each stitching, keeps leather from going askew. Put cotton batting between two sheets of slippery material and pull through pleat, then remove slippery material.

We’re so used to scams that when a real deal comes along, most people are hunkering down thinking “won’t fool me”. Then, it turns out to be real, and really, a real deal. You have my permission to slap your forehead now.