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Tom Laferriere had a Stanley with a Woods Dual Power Body that was very cool. Fist Steam car I paid attention to and mostly because of the body. Note how BIG it is.

Since I bailed on ME after two years take this with a grain of salt, but I'm thinking the frictional loss of the gears would be less than the loss in the magentic drive. But if I no substantial way of justifying that.

Come on Wayne! Buy one get one free!

Very nice. Trades considered, asking $59,500 OBO

Thanks. This is why you can't paint your car Rosso Barrett (Red in honor of Tom Barrett) because guys like me immediately wonder.

Agreed on the wheels. They don’t look right. I think the big and small engines have different head designs.

I thought much Derham documentation survived? I would be highly skeptical of that Studebaker minus some strong provenance.

Given that we have this great thread on Owen Magnetic we need to have a discussion about Woods Dual Power. The Woods Dual Power was advertised as "a self-charging, non-stalling, two-power car with unlimited mileage [range], adequate speed, and greatest economy." You can read a Hemmings Article on the car here: https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2013/03/21/hybrid-from-a-time-of-transition-the-1916-woods-dual-power-model-44 Has anybody ever had an encounter with a Woods Dual Power?

That is a disservice to CL lawn mower ads.

A color change from "Rossa Barrett"?

Jay talked about searching for one for years. Ironic that 3 or 4 nicer ones (than what he started with) have sold in the last 5 years. Although his looks to be the big model.

Yes Maybe a dealer bought it to flip it.

I hope you realize the black one is the new one! Tread pattern is much more appropriate for a 1930s car. What is the garbage back technique? The mounting was easy, but the old tires had been on the car for 40 years and would not come off easily. I was ready to take a cutting wheel to them.

Ok, so for those of you smarter than me and watched the video. Do you need to explicitly put the car in "charge" mode to recharge your batteries? The "charge" position is just above the "start" position on the steering wheel. Keeping in mind the car has no starter or generator I'm wondering how this works.

That is pretty cool. Good luck. Keep us posted. Don't get mad at people questioning celebrity attribution for collector cars. I'm guessing that about 95% of the "My car was owned by such and such" is BS, which is why people naturally question everything.

Interesting. My first thought was that this became this. But I don't think so. They are both RHD.

Jay did a nice job with his video like he usually does. This might help Mark Hyman sell his. Very cool cars.

So I spent 1/2 an hour today prepping for the tire change. Most of that was taping up the rim - painters tape first then gorilla tape on top and carefully sliced along the age with a razor blade. Most of this is advice I got from Ed mixed in with my real experience changing my first snap ring tire. Actually changing the tire took exactly 1 hour. Most of that was getting the old tire off. 1. Remove all stickers from the new tire, inside and out. Any minor piece of anything on the inside of the tire will cause problems for the tube. 2. Prep the wheel with painters tape first then gorilla tape on top and carefully sliced along the age with a razor blade. 3. Remove the tube stem insert and let all the air out. Ed says you can break the bead by hand, I had to use a machine. I jumped up and down on it for 30 minutes and got nowhere. Even with the machine, I had to let some tire lube seep in to along the rim to finally get it to break free. 4. The snap ring came off fairly easily. Start prying with a larger bar carefully at the notch and use a thin spoon to work your way down. 6 inches in it popped off. 5. Use talcum powder inside the new tire. I had to cut the tire flap because it was too big - see picture. 6. Partially inflate the tube before mounting to get it sorted out inside the tire. Then deflate. 6. Rub tire lube around both side of the edge of the tire prior to sliding it on to the rim. I need a heavy rubber hammer to get the tire on. 7. The snap ring went on easier than it came off.

If you set a watch on the auction you will get an offer at 100.00. Still seems pretty stiff for an interesting assortment of factory photos that are not that rare? There was a time 10 years ago or so that I would have jumped all over your car. I've always wanted one since I got stuck with that Special Deluxe in HS and the roadster was king of that little hill. I think I've realized at this point there are only so many bullets in my gun. Your car looks pretty nice, I'll bet you find a buyer fairly easily.

I’m pretty sure it is running a W72 400 which was the last of the real muscle car engines.

He will get 75k for that about the same time as “insert zero chance event here”.

Not showing correctly in eBay motors was a big deal. Also, not the greatest auction. You need lots of crystal clear photos, especially underneath. A real 851/852 Speedster is about 4 to 5 times the price of a real 810/812 open car. But still, I would think the subject car should be worth 50k.

I'll bring this back to the top. I was on the phone the other day with a very well known and respected restorer who I don't want to name but he does lurk here and maybe he can first hand post. So, consider this hearsay, but he runs Evans in all his cars. We are talking super high end stuff. He had two points, the first was that any engine with mixed metallurgy was screwed running a antifreeze-water mix because the chemical reactions. Second, if your cooling system is running correctly the high temp that it will run at should not be a problem. The second point is kind of critical to the whole problem. My last car that I was trying to work through the running hot problems I had to eliminate using Evans because that extra 10 degrees was potentially a problem. 20 years ago this car ran cool, but in the last few had started to run hot. Flushing a bunch of times with Evaporust helped, but ultimately it needed a new radiator and everything else was trying to get around the real issue. Also, I think if I was running Evans for the last 20 years, I would have prevented the metal issues I ran in to with the combination of aluminum and steel in the engine. In conclusion, I'm going to move my cars over to Evans and I guess I can report back on how it goes.

https://www.hagerty.com/media/archived/macho-trans-am/

If they had named this anything other than "Macho" they would be twice as desirable. RM sold one of these also with a four speed for a lot less than this price. This is a really nice color scheme and has super low miles. 1979 Pontiac Trans Am / Macho T/A #29 If you are looking at this add I would presume you know the history of these rare Trans Am's. It is said that no two are alike. This is #29 of 96 produced in 1979, in the one year only color of Atlantis Blue (24), one of only two Macho T/A's produced in this color. And #29 includes all the most desirable Pontiac options including the rare & fully functioning AM/FM/CB Stereo system I believe this to be the nicest original Macho that I'm aware of with only 19,327 original miles wearing it's original factory paint that really looks superb. The car has all the original parts included in the Macho package, to even include the Hooker headers & Koni shocks. The drivetrain is all original as is the distributor, water pump, alternator, carburetor & intake manifold. The overall condition of the car is beautiful, the interior is in like new condition, no wear or cracks in the dash or console, beautiful door panels & trim, clock is working. The exterior shows as a beautifully preserved original, with really nice gloss & shine to the paint, the aluminum wheels are near flawless & need nothing. This is what would be considered an investment grade example of a truly unique Trans Am meant for a serious collector. The car is fully documented all numbers matching T/A with all three build sheets, window sticker, Mecham documentation as well as PHS documented. All casting numbers & date codes correct. I would like to point out some details that you may find of interest, the biggest being the rarity of the Hooker roll bar, just try to find one, impossible. Please take a close look at the beautiful installation of the roll bar, most are hack jobs in the F bodies unless you knew a small mod to facilitate such a clean install. The original Rochester is completely unmolested, missing nothing & showing no signs of ever being opened. The rear defroster is a very common option on these cars but mine doesn't have it, you wouldn't give it much thought until you actually drive a F body with a clear unobstructed view out of the back. And finally something that in the end won't make a difference in this particular car but is extremely rare none the less. If you look close at the build sheet you will notice this car left the factory with WV6 Gold graphics & N90 cast aluminum wheels ln gold. To my knowledge only 3 known examples exist. Although you wouldn't think the combo of Atlantis & gold would work, it was actually beautiful in person