kbeach

It's missing all of its pedals (brake, etc) plus a few other hard to find parts. Looks like a skid loader just pulled it out of a barn, wonder if the missing parts are still up in the rafters.

@John_S_in_Penna. The engine compartment was the tipoff. It was next on the list of things to do, but an offer walked through the door and the project was gone. I would buy this car back in a heart beat if it wasn't that 50% of the household did not like it. For 60 years we have always owned cars that we both like and enjoy and I don't want to mess things up now. Push button slector was an extra and could purchased with the normal shift lever. This push button unit was sent to Mr Push Button for rebuilding and came back working perfectly. My understanding is that one advanage to going with a GM transmission is they have an overdrive plus most shops understand and can sucessfully repair them. Knowledgeable Packard shops seem to be few and far apart. I will leave your other transmission questions to people that know more about them than I do.

Believe this to be a car I sold about 10 years ago. If it is, it was purchased new in Oregon where it spent all its life until I bought it. At that time, it had zero rust! Had one repaint (base coat, clear coat) and new, correct interior. I had the gas tank cleaned and sealed, replace the load level module, radiator, hoses and belts. The new owner had the transmission rebuilt by a fellow that is a noted Packard transmission rebuilder. Over all one of the best cars I have owned. Only problem was the better half did not like it. I agree with @Leif in Calif, engine compartment is a mess.

Wheels have been changed, why?

sold

Could it be part of a hand assist strap? What is the diameter?

Someone could have changed to overdrive, but from the factory the second shift lever is for free wheeling, not overdrive.

The holes are for your fingers. This allows you to pickup and hold the floor board for removal and placement. The leather patch leaves enough room for a finger but will stop dirt and noise from coming inside.

First test of the Logan repair was to make a new banjo bolt for the Alemite Gascolator. The bolt we were using is too short and only takes in the first couple of threads on the Stewart Warner vacuum tank. Since the top of these are very fragile the decision to replace the bolt asap with one that will take in the majority of the available threads. This is a very simple job and the 11/16 X 20 threads came out perfect. The next project for the 27 will be to drop the gas tank, clean and seal it then rebuild the Grolan Gauge. This will be our third rebuild. The first one, done about 4, years ago is still working great.

@r1larkI did not know about either of these. Thanks for the information, I will put it to good use.

Took some time off from messing with old cars and did some much needed and over due repairs on shop equipment. About 1980 (I've lost track of dates) I purchased a 10-inch Logan Model 825 lathe for its value in scrap metal. This was a very used and very abused (the bed showed signs of having been used as a welding table). At this time some parts were still available through Powermatic and I was able to buy a new bull gear assembly (the original one was missing teeth and had been repaired before), but not much else was in stock or, if it was, was out of my price range. Bull gear showing earlier repairs and missing teeth. More problems, Bottom of compound base with broken nut and bent compound rest screw. How can this happen? I have no idea now where I found a replacement. I don't have pictures of other replaced parts as they became remade parts for other projects as needed. Some shafts for the power train and cross feed were made to make it operational, Next came the half nuts of which the threads were long gone. New ones were fabricated using a commercial grade epoxy (looks like the same as J B Weld but was very expensive. Thought it was called something like Bellzoni but can't find it on the internet now). Well, after 40 some years of being one of the most used tools in the shop, the carriage feed stopped working (both longitudinal and cross feed), and the half nuts would not engage for threading. I have put up with this for a few years by manually running the carriage and holding a die in the tailstock for threading. I don't make anything very sophisticated on the lathe, mostly bushings, nuts and bolts and the like. My training is from a high school metal class in the early 50's taught by Mr. King. He quit at the end of the school year and went to work for Boeing. When I asked him why he responded with "better pay, better retirement and I don't have to put up with the teenager attitude!". I understand that now. Others that helped with my training were Ed Ritchie (deceased). Ed was self-taught and made, among other things, model steam and gas engines which all ran beautifully. Ed cut keyways in the new shafts I made as required. Friend Joe, an Engineer now retired, who is working on a Kissel, is always a good go to problem solver. And of course, Joe Puleo on this forum. I miss his posts and hope he is back soon. Upon disassembly, I found the half nuts still had a little life in them, the problem was the half nut cam was worn to the point where it would not allow the half nuts to fully disengage thus not allowing the carriage lever to engage. Half nuts were still working but for how much longer? Also found the key inside the worm gear that runs on the lead screw was almost gone from wear. Worm gear showing what is left of the key that runs on the lead screw. This would have becomme the next failure. Needed parts were found on e-bay. the total package was very heavy and did receive some damage to the parts by the time I recceived it. The first item checked on was the lead screw worm gear. The key was in much better condition as were the half nuts and cam. Now it was just cleaning and assembling the best parts. Done, all ready to go, just waiting for the next project.

@Lahti35, A short arm gascolator just showed up on ebay. No banjo bolt, only $200.00 plus mailing.

The transmission swap would be a big plus for me. Under dash ad ons are a big minus. shows lack of good maintenance by just doing a quick easy fix to get by.

With almost no wear on the brake and clutch pedals I was suprised to see the condition of the spring shackle bolts. I have been using Por-15 on the inside of the stewart warner vacuum tanks. Bead blast first. Keeps the rust out from the new gas we have now. It's good to see that this car has gone to the best new home possible.

Strip the top cover and paint off then park it under a tree. How sad is that?

@Lexington by Ansted, Interesting engine but what is the reason for your post? Is it for sale? Looking for information? If it's for sale , location would be helpful (state).

@pfloro, I was thinking the same thing. Had a powerguide installed once in a chevrolet that went from a running car to one that the engine would not turn over. The flex plate was installed wrong and it bound up tight. With the amount of time you have invested in this project, you owe it to yourself to take a few days off, then at least, find the problem. Anyone that has spent time working on old cars has had a similar problem where they want to throw in the towel, so we all feel your pain. Please don't give up.

This car keeps showing up in new locations. Last time I heard of it I believe it was in Yakima Washington a few years back. If I recall correctly, a dealer had taken it in on a trade then found the engine would not turn over so he put it in an airplane hanger for storeage. It was in Seattle for sale by different owners, I am guessing about 20 or 25 years ago. It is a 1929 blackhawk frame and running gear with a 26 or 27 body attached and was not a running car then. Not sure how that was done as the 29 and 26/27 are a different wheelbase. I never had enough interest in in to go for a look.

@RexChaney. Do not have the early exhaust manifolds, sorry, but for clarification, do you need both exhaust manifolds and both clamps?

This was an after market kit (may have been dealier installed?) that was added to the side of the car. Very nice looking but it held dirt and moisture between the wood and metal of the car which would rust the metal and rot the wood in a very few years.

@mbeitner I have been looking at all the pictures that you posted for a couple of months now, trying to decide if I should respond or not. I decided that it would be best to comment in the hopes of preventing another Stutz or similar car from having a like fire. First, the good news, from the pictures, it looks like your switch may be salvable. Be very careful in dismantling it. You may need to make a new firber base plate which is doable. May years ago, Paul Freehill an I pooled our parts together and did come up with enough parts to complete two working switches, one for his 1927 and one for our 1928. Now we are trying to to put together one more for our 1927. These switches and parts are just non-existent. Now I hope no one takes offence to the following, but look at my comments as a learning tool, as my goal here is to prevent another car fire. It's been a long time ago,but for many years I investigated fires for cause and origin in both automobile and structures so my comments come from years of training and experience. The switch on your car appears to have not been is use at the time of the fire so it was most likely a victim of a gas fire not the cause of the fire. Looking at the engine splash pan you can see what I believe to be the remains of a plastic fuel filter, also visible is a hose clamp on the fuel line to the carburetor. What are missing are the air cleaner/flame arrester and carburetor drain pipe from the air intake (from the picture there is a rod that goes up unter the carburetor but I believe that it is the spark advance rod and not a drain). It is not un-common for an updraft carburetored car to belch a ball of fire out the air intake when cold (or because of bad valves, bad ingition, starving for gas, etc). With out the drain tube, excess gas will lay on top of the engine splash pan. Add the no air cleaner and you have an instant fire. If plastic filter and or rubber/nylon lines have replaced the original fuel lines from the original vacuum fuel tank system, there will be a fuel supply of around, plus or minus, one pint of gas at gravity pressure or about one pound plus of pressure maximum. If you are using an electric fuel pump with rubber/plastic lines, the gas will be supplied to the fire at about three pounds pressure plus the amount of fuel in the tank until the pump is turned off, then the gas can keep syphoning until the tank is empty. PLEASE TAKE NOTE OF THIS! Most of the time the gas will keep syphoning until the tank is empty. This is where I get on my soap box about vacuum fuel tanks. I just do not understand why anyone would replace a vacuum fuel system with and electric pump. The original system is about the best ever designed and built for the time and are very trouble free. The two most common reasons for not working property are dirt or loss of vacuum (bad gaskets or improperly installed/wrong fittings). Next are broken springs on the valve mechanism and bad floats. There are a number fo folks on the AACA Forums that have parts and can rebuild these tanks if you are not able to. What prompted me to write this is looking at some of the other pictures posted here with the same type of modifcations made to the fuel systems. They are one bad startup from suffering the same fate. Just for the record, my first Stutz was a non running Model M that had been converted to electric fuel system before my purchase. It did come with an air cleaner but, being a 16 year old kid, I was in too big of a hurry to start it after cleaning the carburetor and did not install the air cleaner. Yes, it caught fire. I put the fire out and the only damage was to my pride but it was a cheap leason that I will never forget. This was long before rubber gas lines with hose clamps so I was just plain lucky in that respect. Starting in 1928, Stutz used a Zenith model 105 D carburtor with a brass body but still has potmetal parts inside which should be replace. Part way through production in 1928 they went to a model 105DC which is made of potmetal and they should not be used for obvious reasons. Much later in production Zenith redesigned the 105DC, still marked 105DC but made from a better metal. Not all parts will interchange with the earlier models. Some General rules for fuel systems. 1. Don't try to re-engineer the fuel system. The engineers of the day knew what they were doing with what was available at the time. Newer in this case is not better. 2. Do not ever use an electric fuel pump with a vacuum fuel tank. Vacuum tanks need to be vented to work. If an electric pump is added before the tank, once the tank is full the incoming gas will be forced out the vent into the engine compartment. 3. Do not use rubber/nylon hose or plastic filters in the engine compartment. If an electric fuel pump is installed, it should be back by the fuel tank and if rubber/nylon hose is used, us only the corredt fittings that are designed for it. 4. Use the correct air cleaner. You will never see a well sorted marine gas engine without a flame arrester. There is a reason for this and the Cost Gard got it right. 5. For updraft carburetors, use the correct drain tube that will get the excess gas out of the engine compartment. Don't forget the fire extinguisher. Keep it where it is easy to get to and fully charged. And last, every car should be fitted with a battery cut off switch. Do not go cheap on this but get a good one with a high amp rating, then, if you are putting it on a Stutz or similar car, do not put it on top of the starter but somewhere where it is easy to get to without lifting the hood. Trying to turn off the switch by reaching through a gas fire is not a good idea. Just my thoughts.

Plus the two fake air scoops in front of the hood. Nice looking car for the money.

@alsfarms Different body styles offered for the Model S. Both are correct.

1918 Model S with correct fenders.

Fenders are not correct. Look more like 1928 - 29 Model A Ford.