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rocketraider

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Everything posted by rocketraider

  1. I've used lacquer thinner to clean stains off vinyl upholstery. You can try dabbing (and I do mean dabbing lightly) some lacquer thinner or acetone on the vinyl paint in an inconspicuous area to see if it will soften or remove it. Another option might be naphtha or lighter fluid as they will be gentler than the chemical thinners. Both those are good for removing adhesive residues.
  2. I wrote Graves three different times asking for information and scheduling on potmetal repair and plating service and never got a reply. I figured if they couldn't respond to a business inquiry, I might also not get my parts back, and I wasn't about to send parts without a confirmation of work scheduling.
  3. You can get balancers rebuilt. There's several companies that do it. The only one I'm familiar with and know someone who used them is Damper Dudes in CA. The 800# in Hemmings is 800-413-2673. I don't know how much cheaper rebuilding vs new aftermarket will be. I've seen the blower switches on ebay, but you already know the competition for 66-67 parts can be fierce enough without adding in the auction atmosphere. Money? Simple. Plant a money tree in the backyard! You mean everybody doesn't have one??? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I've heard of people growing them in the basement too... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
  4. Gawd- a gorgeous set of 1963 die-cast spinner caps just sold on ebay for about $100. They look the best on Ninety Eights over the color-matched spinners you always see on Starfires, plus they don't have those damn aggravating clips to hold them on. I bid them to $85 for my 64 Starfire but lost out... The Rockets will be strictly an NOS or used part. As always, www.fusick.com , they have some stock of early 60s big Olds NOS. Also try www.antiqolds.com . Can't think of anyone off the top of my head who owns a 63 Ninety Eight, but I have always thought them one of the most stylish Oldsmobiles ever built and among the best of the Ninety Eight breed- Slim Jim notwithstanding <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />.
  5. Most GM Spring-Ring applications are being reproduced and I think that's the way I would go. You'd have to have the spring clamp itself, a means of attaching the cable to the clamp and a mold to pour the lead into. The repop would be cheaper than all that. Plus, even though your cable may look fine and even test good resistance-wise, it's still 30+ years old.
  6. It is called a torsional damper and is actually a vulcanized rubber coupling between the outer and inner RH driveshafts. It's purpose was to reduce torque steer and absorb harmonic vibration. Most reman shafts do not have it. My 69 has a replacement shaft without it, and I can now feel some vibration on a hard uphill pull under acceleration that wasn't there with the original half-shaft. Of course, the original shaft's outer CV joint was junk, so I had to get one.
  7. The best way is to look at the transmission code plate. A W34 car will have a code OM transmission. Code plate will be stamped OM-70-xxxx if it is the original transmission. All 1970 GTs had the GT hood script, dual exhaust w/notched rear bumper, and most had painted pinstripes. Bucket/console cars were uncommon. Estimated 1970 GT production was around 5500 cars. In contrast, there were only 111 1968 versions built, and estimated 1969 production is 2800 or so.
  8. If it's like most of the GM auto show cars from that era, it got scrapped once the show circuit was over <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
  9. Dave@Moon's signature line "Don't believe the hype" is very appropriate here! Come on- 22" chromes, two tone leather interior with leather headlining and <span style="font-weight: bold">FLOOR?!</span> There is no denying the market this thing is aimed at and it isn't yer typical upscale suburbanite. I don't think Land Rover has a thing to worry about.
  10. Me Toronado had one when I got it in 1986. Didn't work. Now it has a 69 Olds sport wheel. A buddy has a 70 Mustang that has it. Doesn't work. He has a pushbutton under the dash for the horn while he's looking for a decent and reasonably priced non-rim-blower Mustang wheel. One of those gadgets where theory and practice were 180 out.
  11. Ah druther have an early 70s Estate Wagon or Custom Cruiser. Even an 80s box wagon looks better to me. This thing looks like it has no headroom, and for a 6'3" guy like me, that is a very important consideration. And there is no mistaking this thing's Aztek roots (where's the puke smiley when it's needed?).
  12. I believe the 1958 master cylinder was still under the driver's floor and had to be filled from underneath the car, or reach way down in the engine bay to get at it.
  13. My take on Hartmann's Britney Spears obsession was kinda like Wile E. Coyote chasing the Roadrunner- in the unlikely event he caught it, what would he do with it?! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> Defend yourself, Hartmann- we know you're out there lurking in the shadows somewhere!
  14. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i used to be able to tell the make and model of a car at night just by the headlight and turn signal configuration. everybody could spot a 57 chevy or a 68 mustang and know what it was just by glanceing at it. cant do THAT any more. </div></div> Tabish has hit the nail right square on the head! Everything looks alike! On the highway I can't tell a new Aurora from a Toyota Avalon or a Volvo S80. And most other stuff is worse! Bug-eye taillights or not, the Alero is one of the few new cars I can tell what it is with a cursory glance. Some years back, when I was still driving the Toronado to work every day, a co-worker who had just bought a Cadillac Cimarron asked me "why do you keep driving that old dinosaur? We make enough money that you ought to be able to buy any new car you want." My reply was that I could look at my dinosaur coming down the road and tell what breed of dinosaur it was, whereas I couldn't tell his new Cimarron from a Chevy Cavalier <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> ouch! Maybe GM and the other carmakers would do well to realise people want some individuality in their automobiles. I don't want a car that looks like every other jellybean with a bland color and nondescript interior and details. And I sure as hell am not about to shell out the cash for one knowing I couldn't stand the sight of the thing past the first payment. Build something distinctive, I might turn loose of me green.
  15. It was a two two-barrel intake if I remember right Wayne. Set up for the Toyota inline six that the Land Cruiser used. A guy I worked with years ago had one, don't know if he still has it. I remember he turned the thing upside down in a creek once. Back in 1987, I was car-pooling with him. We got back-to-back snows of 12 and 14 inches respectively that February, and if we hadn't had that Land Cruiser we'd have never got to work.
  16. That Graffiti coupe would look good anywhere <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> (especially in my driveway- wishful thinking <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />). Would you not agree that this car has a pedigree? And it was built WAY prior to the 25 year cutoff date. The argument was always about newly constructed cars without papers getting in... I remember Man-A-Fre for Toyota Land Cruiser stuff more than anything else. There were a bunch of those boxy things around here in the 70s, and seems like they all had Man-A-Fre induction.
  17. They were a factory option in 1964-65 and require a special wheel. Three styles depending on car series and year. 1964- all exc Starfire and Jetstar I used a dished center w/ 3-point Rocket, no spinner. 1964 Starfire & J-I used a two-bar spinner w/ 3-point Rocket. 1965 all cars used a two-bar spinner w/ vertical Rocket. The bolt-on caps themselves were identical for all series both years. The center cap is the difference. They were discontinued for two reasons. 1) they were very heavy and difficult to balance and 2) people unfamiliar with how they were attached would damage them doing tire work. If you can find the special wheels, you can put the bolt-ons on any big Olds thru 1970 that uses 14" wheels.
  18. Should be a galvanized metal finish. Use silver, or I think Eastwood www.eastwood.com has something that duplicates the galvanized finish.
  19. www.fusick.com . They are an Olds supplier but as stated the convertible rear armrest courtesy lights are common to just about the entire GM lineup thru 1975.
  20. Have you tried Restoration Specialties in Windber PA?
  21. My 65 Service Guild set is incomplete- missing November and December. If you can send me a copy of the template and instructions from the Service Guild, much appreciated. You know, I have every Service Guild issue from 1959-83 except those two and the 1966 set, which I have been chasing for several years. The 70 was easier to find than the 66 has been .
  22. The Skylark used a version of Dynaflow, and the F85 used a baby Roto-HydraMatic (Slim Jim). The baby Roto is no more troublesome than its grown up counterpart that was used in the full size Olds, it's just hard to find anyone now who knows anything about either and how to set them up properly. They're sensitive to fluid level and throttle valve rod adjustment. Get those two things right and it should work OK. Several companies convert later Turbo-HydraMatics for use with 64-earlier Olds V8s. Involves cutting the case down in the torque converter area so it will mate to the Rocket engine. I've heard it's expensive.
  23. Anyone have any experience replacing a power window motor in a 66 B-body car? Car in question is a 66 Bonneville Brougham coupe. 66 Fisher manual wants to remove the entire regulator assembly from the door and replace the motor on the bench. Trouble is, this operation also requires removal of the window glass, and the window won't go down so we can get at the attaching bolts . Later FB manuals had templates that you could use to drill holes in the door structure at the motor mounting screws, remove the screws and replace the motor with regulator assembly in the car. Anyone tried that procedure on a 60s car? I've done it on a couple 70s cars and it works great. We are well aware we're dealing with a hazardous spring, and that's why I don't want to fool with the regulator if I can get around it.
  24. Well, Wayne- I got a day off too, which in the powerplant binness is kinda odd. This was the first Christmas I'd had off in 8 years, and I think I've had 6 off out of the last 23. Good news is, I'm now set to be off the next seven ! Got a new Civil War print, a copy of "Oldsmobile- the First Seventy-Five Years" , a Hurst/Olds wall clock, and the same Hemmings calendar Brian got. Some socks and drawers too, but even at 46, getting those is just like getting 'em when you were a kid.
  25. When you say "doesn't downshift" do you mean a part throttle downshift or doesn't shift to Low at idle? The switch you've found on the throttle links is the downshift and stator angle switch- if it's failed or out of adjustment you won't get part throttle downshift. Possible the stator angle switch has crapped too- if it does, and the stator remains in LOW angle off idle, the car will be very sluggish from a standing start. Out of adjustment causes it too. Also check the 9A "TRANS" fuse in the fuse block. If it won't downshift to Low at idle, Jetaways have a coast down timing valve inside that may be stuck, or the governor itself may not be working right. If you go 400, try to get a 65-67 engine. The 68-69 had a longer stroke that was good for torque but tended to throw rods thru the block if pushed to the limit- as most were .
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