rocketraider

First, remember that the way horsepower ratings were measured changed for 1972. Thru 1971, advertised HP was GROSS horsepower, measured at the flywheel of a bare engine. In 1972, in an effort to quiet government regulators and insurance companies, advertised HP was NET horsepower, measured at the transmission output shaft with all engine-driven equipment in place and operating. That said- advertised net HP for a 1972 Olds 350 with 8.5:1 compression was 160 hp for a 2-barrel carb engine and 180 for a 4-barrel. Add another 15 or so if the engine had dual exhaust. In contrast, a year earlier the same engines were rated at 240 and 260 gross hp respectively. So even though on paper it looks like the later engines were weenies, things hadn't changed all that much. Now in 1970, when compression ratios were still commonly 10.25:1 and higher, advertised horsepower on these engines was over 300. Good call on using the 1972 engine. The 77 engine has windowed main bearing webs and is not as strong for high performance use as the 1972 block. You haven't told us what you aim to do with the engine. Rings and bearings only, rebuild to stock specs, performance rebuild with hotter cam and hi-comp pistons? all that affects the end result horsepower. You'll still notice it in your backside with even a stock 350 compared to the 307. Here's a key to remember. Oldsmobile engines make torque, which is what wins on the street. Choose your hotrod parts to make the most of torque. No outrageous rumpy cam or huge-ass carburetor, reasonably sized exhaust and carefully chosen tire size.

Streets, I would have to go over to the garage and look, but I believe my 69 has a dimple in the fenderwell to clear that brake line. As far as compatibility I think any 1967-70 Toronado or Eldorado booster/mc combination should be ok as both cars were the same under the sheetmetal. I'd go with a 69-70 unit if you used single piston calipers.

And he's out of his mind. Of course, there's a cat on e-bay right now who was trying to open bidding on a NOS 68-70 big car chrome remote mirror at $499.95 too. He's dropped it to $250, but that's a $100 part tops anywhere. For $800 he'll probably sit on that manifold till it rusts to his arse. Anyhoo- back to what manifolds fit what- yes, you can use a big block manifold on a small block engine though the BB ports are larger. Using a SB manifold on a BB will choke it down a bit. Bolt pattern is the same on all. Now- on a dual exhaust Jetstar 88. Parts books show only a single RH system for series 5200 J88, but the shop manual shows a diagram and clearances for dual exhaust series 5200 thru 8600, and shows the crossover block plate installation for the RH smallblock manifold. However- the diagram shows the LH manifold exit at the rear instead of center. So who knows what the factory may have done? All J88 I've ever seen were single exhaust cars, but it is possible for a good exhaust man to make it look like a dual system belongs there. Linas, with the small block in there you can try using SB manifolds and having pipes bent for them. The 403 may be just narrower enough that everything bolts up neat and no mickey-mouse bends.

You can upgrade to a later Toronado/Eldorado variable ratio steering box, but you'll have to change all the steering linkage too as 66 uses a one-year-only pitman and idler arm. You can send your existing box to somewhere like Power Steering Services in St. Louis and they can rebuild and upgrade it to a quick ratio.

Hydraulic lifters can leak down overnight and rattle on startup. Sometimes if they're stopped on the cam lobe high point they'll also rattle on startup. My experience with 307s is that it will probably be the rocker arm bridges or their retainers, especially if the engine hasn't had proper oil change maintenance. It could also be the vacuum operated heat riser valve flapping around inside the exhaust manifold, or a leaking air injection manifold check valve. Brakes sometimes just make noise. You can check to see if the metal wear detector finger is riding the rotor, or you can spray anti squeak compound on the back side of the pads where they contact the caliper.

Nope, nope, nope- this is not a small block manifold. Those are identified with numbers instead of letters. "S" casting is 1965-70 425-455 LH dual exhaust manifold in 88-98 chassis. There are two different versions of this manifold. 65-69 have a heat riser flap, 70 does not. They kick up at the rear and are radiused to clear the steering gear. $250-300 is high reasonable price for one of these manifolds. Of course if you can get it cheaper...

"She got a big Olds-mo-beel" Any other Delbert McClinton <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/cool.gif" alt="" /> fans on the forum?

Only thing is, if they build an Olds they'll botch it up like they have most of 'em they've done, but... ANYTHING EXCEPT ANOTHER SBC <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/tongue.gif" alt="" /> ! My gawd, how many more of those can we stand?

Greg, this sounds very similar to a GM A/C evaporator case drain tube. You might also try Steele Rubber www.steelerubber.com . If they don't have the exact part, they may have something that can be adapted or make them if yours are good enough to make a mold from.

I've got a bunch of metal dealer badges and license frames, and VA/NC county/city license tags. I also collect vintage GM ads, as well as shop manuals and K-M and Burroughs special tools. I started scarfing the dealer stuff off junked cars. I try to limit the license plates to the years of cars I own, and the ads came about as a result of an aunt's packrat habits- she never threw a magazine away! Shop manuals and tools- I guess they're a fetish. And I have the nerve to wonder why I can hardly get thru the house .

Contact Dixie Olds Chapter OCA, 2570 Hwy 29, Lawrenceville GA 30044. They'll know of old-Olds-friendly shops in the Atlanta area.

For a straight rust free loaded wagon, I'd have near-'bout risked it <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" /> .

A/C didn't affect carb usage on 1970 350s. All except W31 used 0250 carbs for AT, MT and A/C-non A/C applications. The 0255 carb was for W31 only, AT, MT A/C or non A/C and didn't have a power piston or metering rods. For the record the 0256 W30 455 MT carb didn't either.

Wouldn't the Country Sedan have been available in all three trim lines? Maybe Bill S is thinking about a Fairlane Country Sedan. Just remembered two more 56 Fords from my past. A tutone green Fairlane hardtop that had had Fairlane trunk trim added to its fender skirts, and a green and white Fordor sedan that one of my cousins owned briefly before a pissed-off teenage meltdown made him drive it into the side of a dumptruck. And after all that the girl still wouldn't talk to him... . On a different take- has anyone else seen a 55 or 56 with optional extra side trim? Two of the wide fluted bands down the side, from the "Fairlane sweep" to the taillight. Saw one at Spring Carlisle ten years ago or better, and the guy had paperwork documenting its availability.

It was to be the last Olds Convertible ever built and was, until the Cutlass Supreme ragtop showed up again in the late 80s. It was a Lansing car built 3rd week July 1975 and was code 75 Spectra Red w/white top and interior, from the info I have. I've been trying to find info on dealer it was shipped to but haven't had much luck. Rumour is it went to the Southeastern US. Thought I'd found it earlier this year in Greensboro NC but that one turned out to be a Linden NJ built car. Still damn close to the end though. I owned the next to last Linden-built 1973 Royale convertible for nearly 14 years. Bambi whacked it hard in the left quarter and I fell out of love with it- got disgusted with it, truth be known. It went to Parkersburg WV where it lives with a 1973 Olds collector who has restored it.

I'm far from a Ford expert, but the way I understand mid-50s Ford wagons, Country Squires and Country Sedans were four-door wagons with difference being woodgrain on the Squires. Parklanes and Ranch Wagons were two-door wagons, again with the Parklane having the fancy fake wood side panels and I think fender skirts. Ranch Wagons usually had a western theme upholstery pattern. As you know, Ford car series in 1955-56 were Mainline, Customline and Fairlane which explains differences in trim and script locations for both the cars and the wagons. All this is based on childhood recollections of my uncle's '56 Parklane and a neighbor's mint green '55 Ranch Wagon. While we're on this subject- another neighbor had a 56 Customline 2-door sedan that was a strange (to my young eyes) purplish gray color. Any idea what that color was called? Now that I think about it, there were no less than six 55-56 Fords in the community where I grew up. The two aforementioned wagons, another red and white wagon, the gray Tudor, and two 1955 Fordor sedans. One mint green Customline, one tutone blue Fairlane Town Sedan. For some reason I was scared of the lady who had the Town Sedan, though she and my mother were friends... Like 'em or not, the Dave and Pete Show usually garners a lot of interest and occasional thought-provoking discussion. We need people like them to keep things balanced .

Once you have the QuadraJet completely apart and cleaned, look on the bottom of the float bowl and you will see the plugs. They're steel balls pressed/staked into the float bowl body to plug the holes left from drilling the passages from the main jets to the venturi cluster nozzles and for the secondary metering rod transfer holes during carb manufacture. These plugs are notorious for leaking fuel from the float bowl into the intake manifold. I had a brand-new Q-Jet start leaking at less than 6 months old <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/tongue.gif" alt="" /> . Mix up yer JB Weld or other epoxy and coat the plugs thoroughly. Allow to dry before reassembling the carb. Some carb kits include a dense foam well plug to install under the plugs as a fix for this problem, but the epoxy is yer best bet.

Thought maybe it was a Dave@Moon... Stellite- what is it like living with a drunken pit bulldog? I learned along time ago you can get just as drunk on cheap stuff as good stuff, though the difference in price gets offset by the price you pay the next day... Pit bull with a hangover- must be an evil thing indeed!

In Germany odds are all available are metric. Thomas, if you can get us some measurements someone on here may be able to get you some freeze plugs here in the States.

Easy- a factory four-speed 1965 or 1966 Starfire. Second choice would be a 1968 bucket seat W34 Toronado, third would be Rooster Bush's 74 Hurst/Olds Pace Car. Hmmm- the last 1975 Royale convertible wouldn't be a bad pick either.

You really want cool? Find a pair of 1973-74 Olds valve covers to plate. Those have "OLDSMOBILE" embossed into them. <span style="font-weight: bold">WAAAY</span> - but maybe not on a Buick. Besides, all the emissions plumbing on the RH would cover it up .

I like electrical troubleshooting and repair, and engine, trunk and interior detailing. I especially like cleaning grunge off wiring so it looks new again ! I have neither talent nor patience for body work, and I don't like scraping crud off the underside. As some of you may have gathered, I also like researching factory literature to make sure what I'm doing is accurate. I even like scrounging junkyards for treasure . I used to like the "thrill of the hunt" digging up NOS treasure in swap meets, but as it's gotten scarcer and more expensive, I find meself sitting on me ever-spreading arse doing it on e-bay .

www.windsor-jewelers.com . The website doesn't show them, but they have a line of special KK jewelry and accessories for the better half. Not cheap stuff either- good stuff, commissioned by Winston-Salem's own Krispy Kreme, "King of America's Doughnuts!" Christmas is coming, folks... here's a good gift idea. Get her some of this and she might let you buy another old car, or at least buy you some KKs at the grocery store

Time to rant 'n' rave, I think... there's sure plenty of it going on now. Skyking- some people have valid reasons to remain anonymous. To revile someone without being man enough to reveal one's identity is not one of those reasons.

Tony, in a wagon, I'd be inclined to ditch the 307 and get a Jasper, Interstate, etc remanufactured 403 long block and stick in there. It'll drop in on the same mounts and all the 307 auxiliaries, emission equipment and carb will bolt on. Olds 260-307-330-350-403 engines are the same engine family. Paint it black and nobody will be able to tell it's not a 307. I think you'd come out ahead financially and would have a warranty to boot. I had an 81 Pontiac Safari 307 OD car, and while it was a dependable engine and got 24 mpg, hauling that 4000 lb wagon around worked it to death especially if it went thru mountains.