sahein

http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/showflat....prev=#Post47915

Yo tambien.

I just removed the bolts and replaced the entire nose assembly with one that had the smaller pulley. I also put in a new coupler while I was at it.

Could it be an ignition problem? The ignition control circuit switches over at 400 RPM.

http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/showflat....=true#Post53541

At one time JC Whitney sold a product called liquid rubber. It is no longer available. So I experimented and came up with something of my own. It has been holding up quite well for a couple of months now on a Riviera and I suspect that it will hold-up nice for several years before requiring re-coating. It will not repair deep cracks or gouges but with a little skill it will make moderatly weathered windshield molding look like new. The molding has to be clean and free of dirt and wax build-up. It is best to mask so that the coating dosen't get on other surfaces. I used an acid brush to put it on and never tried spraying so I don't know how well that will work. Light wet sanding and re-coating may or may not help depending on the situation.

I did see a severly smashed 88 in the junkyard that had a large hood emblem and a gold medallion on the horn button and 5 buttons on the console. It did not have the keyless entry. My guess is that this either was a very late 88 or sombody replaced the hood emblem with a larger one.

Yes there is a plastic cover inserted into the top of the struts.

I vote for 88-89.

I thought that I had a bad bearing once but it turned out to be a bad tire. There was no visible defect on the tire. It sounded like a bad bearing loading and unloading when the wheel was turned left and right while going down the road.

GM recomends silicone grease.

A 2:1 digital divider should not be to hard to acheve with a simple logic circuit. But just incase; Where can the recalibrator modules be found? I mounted the EGR to the drivers side of the dog-bone bracket. Then I used 1/2" copper fittings soldered together with silver solder wrapped with metal tape as insulation for the plumbing to the supercharger EGR inlet.

When I bought the supercharged engine and transmission the axles came with it. The vss pulse rate on the 4t60e is twice the 440t4. 4000 pulses per mile vs 2000. Need to divide in half for everything except for my homemade trans controller.

I was able to use what I believe(80%sure)to be an axle from a 95 Riviera. The axle was the correct length but the splines wouldn't fit into the reatta wheel hub. So the solution was to disassemble the outboard CV joints and use the axle, inner race, cage and balls from the Riv on the Reatta outer CV race. It fits perfect.

Blue, White and Silver. I just spotted a red Reatta on Northlake Blvd by PepBoys. It is in sorry shape. Metal looks straight and it seemed to run ok but the paint has severe sunburn and the headlights are stuck open and the gas filler cover was flapping in the breeze.

I now have the Supercharged engine with the 4T60E transmission bolted into the car. The original drivers side axle fit perfectly without modification but the passenger side axle is too long and needs to be modified.

I live in the West Palm area and I have 3 Reattas, but none are red.

Have to play with the 1989 ignition switch by jiggling the key to start the car. The older GM cars had a hole where you inserted a paper clip to release the tumbler. Any ideas on how to remove this one?

More than likely the plastic gear inside of the motor housing. Replace the motor.

If the noise also occurs when the radio is muted, then it is probably the capacitors in the radio.

In every instance I have found that the plastic gear inside of the motor has lost a tooth or two. Replacing the motor with a new one should repair the problem. I have never found a problem with the regulator, only the motors.

It is probably the switch located inside the door on the door latch. I think that it mounts with a single 1/4" hex head screw. Just follow the wires to the switch if the switch hasn't physically broken and become detached.

First off, look at the Pin Assignment Legend. The transmission has 3 control solenoids. A & B controls 1-4 gear selection, Yhe other is for the Torque Converter Clutch (tcc). Look at the bottom of the code starting with "Neutral:" Each line of code is divided into 2 parts; The command followed by comments. The command is isolated from the comment by the (') character. You should be able to determine what is required to manually shift it with switches from this portion.

Look at this old post. http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/showflat....true#Post160953

I guess that he was correct in saying that the Reatta sales were unimpressive. As Buicks most expensive car there is no wonder why.