ak

It seems to me the "screw in the overflow pipe" trick will solve your water loss problems. The water expands and flows out of the overflow pipe, then when you slow the car down, the volume of water in the engine drops because the margin necessary to keep the radiator filled had poured out the overflow pipe because of expansion and the volume of water pushed into the radiator by the water pump at higher rpm's. Of course this is the idea of the overflow tanks on modern cars to keep the radiator filled, what is pushed out is drawn back in. There is no way to save it in a container because the system is "open" and not "closed" as in modern cars, and the overflow systems have a 15lb cap on them.

It is a paste in a plastic container, sold at most if not all auto parts stores. I have purchased the "flitz" product at Hershey, and it worked famously! John

An "old timer" gave me some good advice. When the water gets hot it expands, and with the water pump pushing it rises over the over flow pipe and out the bottom. Put a long flat head screw (long enough that if raised it will be prevented from pulling out because it will hit the radiator cap) into the overflow pipe, the head of course must be larger than the ID of the tube. It will act as a poppet valve and allow the water to expand and pass over the screw head but if it comes under pressure from steam, it will lift the screw, push past the head and into the tube and out the bottom. Works like a charm.

Simichrome but that is expensive. Mother's aluminum polish is just as good as Simichrome and is just about the best you can do for the job.

My mom had a 73 Imperial which I got to drive when I was 17. What a fantastic machine it was. Galvanized as I recall, no rust of any kind notwithstanding we had it in NJ. 440 and it flew! Ours was charcoal gray, black vinyl top, cloth interior. What a great looking and performing machine.

amazing

Alan, 100 mm Rudge

Looks to me to be identical to an Atwood lamp.

FS: 1938/1939 110 hood in excellent condition $500. Photos upon request Thanks

FS: 1938/1939 110 hood in excellent condition $500. Photos upon request Thanks

Polished and plated brake and clutch pedals!

Thanks for this photo. It clears up many questions in accurately restoring these cars!

How about the light color the engine is painted!

WTB; old fashioned woven brake lining, 1/4 thick leads appreciated thank you John

https://www.invaluable.com/catalog/xu4k5tt94d?page=1&size=48

throw out the baby with the bathwater Throw out the baby with the bath water

Fantastic! Thanks for sharing it. Picked up the castings for the muffler end.

In the old day the waist on the pant went around the waist on the wearer. Now they hang on the hip.

P.S. (in my opinion) the sidelights are not Solar but CM Hall, just like those on a 1911 Franklin (with which I am much familiar) JR

Besides the headlights, also missing is the Rushmore shaking grate generator which has bee replaced with the newer Prestolite bottle. JR

Non side skirted fender is already banged up, perhaps by those chains.

Gray and Davis, 1909 - 1910, Solar 1911 - 1912 if you go by the sales literature. Script lights are always icing on the cake, but I have never seen 934 Gray and Davis lights with automobile manufacturer specific script.

That is great! By the way, hand pump is essential to enjoying these cars!!!

Series 4 cars generally do not have a windshield and the windshield on that car is not "after market" but a series 5 windshield for sure. It is likely that series 4 folks in the day would have upgraded their car with a windshield when they were introduced for the series 5. I agree that the steering wheel is certainly not the angular series five wheel for sure. In any event it is pretty cool indeed.

Need fuse board/panels for series 11 or 12. Thanks. Akrendo@gmail.com