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I did it this way because I found the tail piece was available mandrel bent without deformation for a 1965 mustang, only 1/8 OD less. That is the reason for the 1/8" spacer, which would not be visible if assembled as intended. Alan, the spacer piece is designed to completely disappear into the casting leaving only the tail piece visible. I had a set screw hole machined in to enable the installation.

Alan, the spacer piece is designed to completely disappear into the casting leaving only the tail piece visible. I had a set screw hole machined in to enable the installation.

Franklin did the same thing in 1911. 26 front 25 rear at least on the Model M. JR

What is significant is that Loco began the dual rear mounted spare system in 1910! License to move the spares to the back! JR

Al, immediately noticed: Rushmore Searchlight up front, Gray and Davis 904's, skirt reinforced rear fenders and seat covers.

Fantastic! Thank you for sharing!

not for sale. i am going to restore it someday.

My friend, it was a great day for sure. Bright and sunny without a cloud in the sky. The 60 degrees in the sun felt like 70. Ahhh driving old cars! It was a wonderful day with my gal. JR

That is rich. That it was invited to and did appear at Pebble being a "negative".

I have found that all bearings are metric. Never found a bearing yet that wasn't metric.

You better get a gym membership, because you will need a lot of elbow grease to clean brass or nickel with brasso! You might as well use soap and water and get the same results without big expense. My opinion: you will throw brasso and never dull in the trash can once you have tried simichrome, flitz, and mother's aluminum polish.

My recollection is that it belonged to Gerry Gloekler from Beaver PA. JR

Hi Al, they are threatening sunlight and 60 for Sunday. After mass I intend to fire one up and take a long drive with the missus! I especially cant wait to shut the car off near a marsh close to the RR tracks and listen to the peepers! How about you? JR

Let me know what you think about the results. Brackets in the pipe.

God bless your great Dad! A great American for sure. Look for a box coming your way, sent it out today. JR

CAPICE'!!

I suspect that the car appeared "too new". Capice'?

That is a rumble seat coupe, correct?

I understand it was "NO SALE"

The Rolls Royce Riviera Town Car was recently invited to and did appear at Pebble in that condition.

The car was recently invited to and did appear at Pebble in that condition.

I just checked and walmart carries it. Shipped to your door.

It seems to me the "screw in the overflow pipe" trick will solve your water loss problems. The water expands and flows out of the overflow pipe, then when you slow the car down, the volume of water in the engine drops because the margin necessary to keep the radiator filled had poured out the overflow pipe because of expansion and the volume of water pushed into the radiator by the water pump at higher rpm's. Of course this is the idea of the overflow tanks on modern cars to keep the radiator filled, what is pushed out is drawn back in. There is no way to save it in a container because the system is "open" and not "closed" as in modern cars, and the overflow systems have a 15lb cap on them.

It is a paste in a plastic container, sold at most if not all auto parts stores. I have purchased the "flitz" product at Hershey, and it worked famously! John

An "old timer" gave me some good advice. When the water gets hot it expands, and with the water pump pushing it rises over the over flow pipe and out the bottom. Put a long flat head screw (long enough that if raised it will be prevented from pulling out because it will hit the radiator cap) into the overflow pipe, the head of course must be larger than the ID of the tube. It will act as a poppet valve and allow the water to expand and pass over the screw head but if it comes under pressure from steam, it will lift the screw, push past the head and into the tube and out the bottom. Works like a charm.