Jay Wolf

If it is the same as the 55 T-bird switch you can buy that new in a repop.

Will listen cash off well under book.

Dash

The second link does custom checks with up to 4 of your photos on them http://www.buy-cheap-checks.com/photo_ch...CFQ-eIwoddVqLkg

On my old 1916 admittedly quite a bit older, and larger tires 34", if it didn't have at least 2 inches you couldn't keep it on the road. I forgot the book and set it by drivablity.

I use checks from www.checkdepot.net. They are not books as I print them on my computer in sheets of 3. but I can print any picture I want on them using Quicken. It doesn't look like they offer any preprinted ones. I found this on the web. Don't know anything about them. Looks like you can use 4 different photos. http://www.buy-cheap-checks.com/photo_ch...CFQ-eIwoddVqLkg

Cloth top up, I think this is the only time I ever had it up.

More pictures

More pictures

Another picture.

I'm bored it may be time for a change, maybe time to part with my Red 1955 Thunderbird I would place it as a #2 more information at the web site. Photos at: http://beaver.vinu.edu/Bird/index.html Text info at: http://beaver.vinu.edu/Bird/1955%20Ford%20Thunderbird%20info.htm It’s time to part with the Bird, I only had it out of the garage three times last year and once this year so far. I am open to a trade for something that interests me. It doesn’t cost anything to make me an offer. Will trade up or down for something I want. 2008 Collector Car Price Guide shows a 1955 Ford Thunderbird V8 Convertible with hard top ($1800) Condition/price 6 /$4440 5 /$9220 4 /$15,000 3 /$31,500 2 /$48,000 1 /$67,800 Jay David Wolf 2226 E. Apache Lane Vincennes IN 47591 Jwolf@vinu.edu 1955 Thunderbird http://159.218.3.3/Thunderbird/index.html Indian Chief http://159.218.3.3/Indian/ 1916 Elgin http://beaver.vinu.edu/Newelgin.HTM BMW R1100RTL http://159.218.3.3/R1100rtl.HTM Rokon Mark III http://159.218.3.3/rokons/Jays/ 1964 Amphicar http://159.218.3.3/PICTURES.HTM

I used Eastwords gas tank coating

Let me give you take on the 10 point spread. Take my case I have a 1955 Thunderbird that I drive to all national shows I attend, sometime as far as 600 miles. The bird is a nice mostly original car and as a judge I think it could score 365 points, it has a lot of one or two point deductions as any driven car has but nothing major or incorrect. True a single car can only beat you twice at most. But I have never been to a National show that didn?t have a fresh professional restored 55-57 Thunderbird pulled out of a trailer going for a junior. So basically if you drive your 55-57 thunderbirds you are not going to win a national first place. So In my case and I am sure in other the only thing the 10 point spread does is discourage us from driving our cars and I hate to see AACA do that. I would guess that is why AACA set a first at 365 in the first place so a driven and enjoyed car could still win a first. On the other side I have a whole bunch of Second place trophies, if I ever won a First and didn?t win Senior I wouldn?t get anything.

Rick I had a 1916 Elgin 6 with shell (not poured) babbit bearings. The front main cap (of 3 mains)was broken and 1/2 of it missing when I got the car. So I didn't have a insert or the bearing to make a mold from. I had a new cap machined and the guy made me bearing out of oil impregnated brass bearing material. I never had a bit of problems with it. Babbit wasn't a choice for me since they were shell and I had nothing to make a mold out of. The owners manual gave great bearing adjustment instructions. "Grasp the crank with your hand if you can move it up and down, remove shims till it will not move. If you can not hand crank it by hand add shims back in." After about 100 mile (recommended bearing check as per manual) I pulled the pan and everything was fine no problems no adjustment needed.

I repair something similar with some Mad Dog Rod. Mad Dog rod is an aluminum welding rod you use with a propane torch, I got at Hershey years ago, it goes under different names. You always see the guys welding beer cans together at swap meets. Clean them real well (stainless steel brush and heat), carefully filled in the scratches then sanded it smooth. I polished them and used some muratic acid to give it the dull look. it was little different color but not noticeable from 3 feet.

When I did HPOF a few years ago I had to fillout the owners portion as to what I was saying was preserved

This look like a good candidate for taxi clone. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PACKARD-1...emZ280103554850

Great I am in need of one and was thinking I would have to skip Hershey judging and I doesn't look like I will attend any other national shows this year.

There was a nice one at the AACA national show at Metropolis in 2004. Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4 I like the opening rear window. The name of the owner would be in the AACA program.

I have not have very good luck with the Goodyear trailer tires. The side walls are like paper. One time I hit a wooden 2x4 on the highway and it went trough the sidewall and ruined the tire. I started using Carlisles and had much better luck, cost was about the same. Does anyone else have an opinion between Goodyear and Carlisle. I usually go to the next size bigger to increase the load capacity, that is cheaper than getting tires the same size that would carry a bigger load.

The car is a 1914 Cole turtleback roadster. It looks almost new so the picture could be the Fall of 1913, to into 1915. This one was a 4 cyl.& quite classy. Cole competed with Cadillac, & this car sold for about $1600, while a Ford roadster sold for under $400. There are a few 1914 Coles still out touring.

One thing I noticed was that the front spokes number ten instead of twelve. Maybe this is a four cylinder. Also the radiator shell may be painted instead of brightwork.

I think we have found it. A 1914 Cole Six. Bad picture but note the cowl shape.

second Picture

These photos were sent to our regional web site. so I'll post them here for better identification. What is it?