lancemb
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Posts posted by lancemb
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Looks like a nice solid car needing just a little TLC!
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Well, I did some stuff today. First, I removed and checked the resistance of the ballast resistor cold compared to a new one; they were pretty close.
Then, I laid a piece of foil over the toaster and heated both up a full cycle with the coil side down. They were both probably toastier than they would normally get. Again, both tested similarly to one another.
Note: I obtained a new front harness set from YnZ during restoration of this car because someone was selling it leftover from a project never finished. I didn't install it because I was already mostly done with that portion of work on this car and thought mine was okay.
Next, I tested resistance of the segments in the circuit on the front side of the firewall. All were higher than same when comparing to the new harness. However, nothing was extraordinarily high by itself. However, the segment coming from the battery junction going to the firewall connector was easily the highest.
Since the harness containing most of the ignition circuit is all under the hood, I swapped it out today, hoping that the sum of the extra resistance could be causing my problem. While I was at it, I put the new resistor on as well for good measure; it was an authentic NOS Delco one and the old one was aftermarket so I figured I'd increase authenticity at the same time.
I started the car and let it idle in my garage until it reached full temperature and then backed it out into the driveway. Once outside 10 min the temperature climbed a little past the "N" on the gauge; it was in the 70's in the shade and the sun was hot beating on it, so I think that's pretty typical with no air flow.
The car seemed fine otherwise though, but I'm not convinced as I've never had it fail just idling previously. I'm not sure where to go at this point as I'm afraid to take it on the road again and get stuck. If the failure is related to the number of times the ignition system fires per minute then the problem may still exist.
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32 minutes ago, Smartin said:
I will contact them definitely.
Try Bjorn
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5 hours ago, 1957buickjim said:
I'm in the process of finishing my restoration of my 1957 Buick Estate Wagon, and in checking out the transmission (which has been rebuilt) when I have been shifting into reverse (and having to rev the engine to get it to move) the fluid shoots out of the filler neck all over the exhaust manifold and frame. Doesn't do it in Drive and haven't tested Low yet. I have installed an external transmission oil cooler in series with the radiator integral oil cooler, as I want to be able to tow my Shasta AirFlyte with the wagon.
Any ideas as to why the trans would blow back fluid only in reverse? As a side note, I have only run the car in the driveway only for 20-30 minutes, not taken it on the road for loading of the transmission. Thanks in advance for any insights on how to correct this.
Have you called your rebuilder for insights?
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2 hours ago, EmTee said:
The hope, of course, is that it turns out to be something simple...
Indeed...Smartin convinced me to check out the ballast resistor, so I'll do that and I'll do some more circuit testing while it's at home and not stuck somewhere. I only hope I can run it enough in my garage to test it, as previously I could only get it to fail when driving. It seems to be getting worse though, in addition to the added ambient heat of the season adding to it, so maybe it will be easier to make that determination.
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Doug was one of those people I was eager to help out when I could, because he was always ready to do the same. I hope his son can carry on his legacy.
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I was able to take a day off work Friday, so I'm going to do some more testing before I get in too deep...
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Thanks for input @EmTee and @NailheadBob. My problem is that I have very little time to work on this, and I don't have any more time to spend getting stuck with it again. I cleaned up all of the terminals when I put the car back together so I don't think it's just that.
If I change the harness out and the problem persists then at least I've improved the car and eliminated a whole lot ofv things. It will be a miracle if I can get that done.
However, if I spend more time testing and don't come up with anything more conclusive then I may have then passed the point with certainty of being able to replace harness.
Time is not on my side if I want to get this car to Lisle. I've got a demanding day job and family so I may only have a couple days to work on this...
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41 minutes ago, EmTee said:
When I was suspicious of my ignition switch I clipped a temporary wire between +12 V and the coil to bypass the ignition switch. If doing so eliminates the problem then you can narrow the search to the switch or that part of the harness.
You mean 12v to the resistor? I wouldn't want to bypass that to run it...
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29 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:
Could it be a weak ballast resistor?
That wouldn't affect the current at the accelerator switch though, which is also affected. That's why I think there is a bad spot in the harness somewhere, where both wires are affected.
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11 minutes ago, EmTee said:
How's the ignition switch? Is it warm...?
I didn't check, but didn't notice it was wRm and right after it happened I had good current at the neutral safety switch coming from the ignition switch. The ignition switch is new also, for what that's worth.
In fact, the wiring harness is about the only thing that isn't new. Not that new components can't fail, but I tend to suspect old stuff first anyhow.
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Well, after swapping out most of the gas and freeing up the rubber lines, no improvement. In fact, I spent a good part of the weekend getting stuck and having to wait for it to cool down.
Now, I can barely go any distance without the car dying. I think I've got some heat sink issues, but I'm now convinced my immediate problem is in the ignition system.
It now gets so bad that when the car is even a little warm it dies, and I lose current to the ignition system completely (or at least not enough to light up a test light). This is confirmed at the yellow wires going to the coil, to the switch on the carburetor, and to the ballast resistor. These are all in the same harness, along with the dash accessories. I am thinking I will just replace that whole section of harness. By the time I peel it apart and troubleshoot it, that may be easier.
Before it got this bad, I replaced the coil and condensor but of course that didn't help.
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Finally got the car back from upholstery. With only weeks until national meet, still have some bugs to work out and worried about time. However the interior is pretty much done, but waiting on chrome bezels for interior lights to cime back. I'd sent wrong ones to chromer (from 4 door) and had to pay hefty to get the correct ones done on a rush.
Here's a sneak peek at interior.
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On 5/26/2022 at 4:17 PM, NC-car-guy said:
I want this. How odd is that even with no car to put it on.
Well, you're partway there if you buy it...
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On 3/8/2022 at 10:31 AM, usnavystgc said:
My search for an engine and tranny for this car has not been fruitful yet... What I really want is a 56 322 with a 56 dyna.
Here ya go
https://www.facebook.com/groups/BUICKS/permalink/5091744000909910/
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Did you ever find an engine for other car? Here's one with trans.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/BUICKS/permalink/5091744000909910/
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I remember this car for sale a few years ago for about half this money. Someone, probably whomever he got it from, made a quick profit. However, it will be a tough sell even being a decent car. Super 4 doors just don't hold the value. If I remember correctly the car has incorrect upholstery as well, but didn't look out of place. I think the paint color (at least on lower) may have been changed too.
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On 5/18/2022 at 6:35 PM, KAD36 said:
Any new news on this front?
The shop is going to remove the rubber fuel line from the clips at the side of the frame and secure them to the clips such as not to be restricted. I'll swap out some of the fuel when I pick it up also. Then, I'll hope for the best on the way home.
I'm scheduled to pick it up next Friday...
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The underside has got to be a nightmare...
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It's worth restoring for what it is, but I don't think there's any money to be made in the endeavor...
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1 hour ago, NTX5467 said:
When it starts dieing away, can you pump the accel pedal and get it to keep running?
Nope!
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I got some interesting feedback from the shop. A mechanic there took a further look and thinks that the fuel hose at the frame is being restricted because it is thicker than the original and being squeezed by the clips.
I think that while it is clearly not restricted enough to not run, the restriction could be increasing chance of vapor lock if forward section is not completely filled with fuel due to rearward restrictions.
He's going to take hose out of clips and zip tie it in place for me to try it out on the ride home. I may also try to swap out some fuel for ride home. If I make it home I'll be confident it's a vapor lock issue. It should also be significantly warmer a couple weeks from now when it comes home.
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1955 Roadmaster Sedan $26k
in Buick - Buy/Sell - Not Mine
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Looks really nice. I know it's a 4 door, but looks like a lot of nice car for the money.