lancemb
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Posts
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Posts posted by lancemb
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10 hours ago, orangejuice88 said:
still got these?
Might want to read the thread first...
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3 hours ago, 65GSConv4sp said:
The pictures show that it has a rear seat speaker grille, so I suspect there is a speaker behind the grille. Nothing on the radio indicates the presence of a rear seat speaker (no fader control, for example).
The radio will be the same. There should be a separate fader switch on the dash. This car came with rear speaker according to the accessories which means it should have one whether it currently does or not. There is only a grille installed on cars with rear speaker.
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I can't view the pics without signing in to Google
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This ad reads like a lead... could be a great little car
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4 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:
but wait I don't have an Adam to work on mine... I have to do it myself... oh the horror...LOL!
I don't either really nearby - but the car was making a journey there any way for some body work.
It's fun working on them, but I got myself in a pickle buying another one and still trying to finish the coupe. I've spent every free moment I've had practically the past 5 years working on one car or another, at the expense of actually enjoying taking them to car shows. I gotta change that!
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With Adam's help, I'll have 3 Buicks to drive this summer without having to spend all summer working on them. That's the goal!
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They are out there, but you'll have to get lucky to find one in very close proximity.
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5 minutes ago, old-tank said:
I have not tried that one, but my problems with vacuum bleeders vs a pressure bleeder is that you have to monitor the fluid in the master cylinder and it is sometimes hard to tell when evacuation is complete at the wheel cylinders when some air is sucked in around the bleeder screws.
I have the same concern. I'm thinking of rigging up a reservoir expander that screws on to the MC. Should be easy to get it to seal well enough with no pressure.
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13 hours ago, Smartin said:
Brake hoses and wheel cylinders was the game this afternoon. And I don’t know how I did it without this awesome fluid extractor.
Tell me more about the fluid extractor. Do you now deem it essential for one-man bleeding? I may have to get one.
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4 hours ago, usnavystgc said:
As you all know, this car has no engine or tranny do that means the rear is only being held on by the panhard bar. It was tied up for transport but that's not a good solution so for now it's sitting on jack stands with the wheels just touching the ground.
What is the best way to secure the torque tube so I can roll it around?
I'm told this had been solved on here before but, I can't find it. I can't even think of what to search for.
Jus use ratchet straps to secure it to the rear of frame. It will want to move forward, not back. I've done this on my car while trans is out and even transported it this way and it's all good.
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Might be getting close to a deal for someone with the price drops
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Neat car but I don't think he actually wants to sell it
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16 minutes ago, John_S_in_Penna said:
What are the "J-bars" for a 1956 Buick's rear bumper?
Can you or anyone point them out in a picture?
I'm already benefiting from others' expertise!
You can see here in a picture I reposted from above, the small curved bumperette which is on each side. Note that even given the very good condition of the chrome on this car in general, this bar is rotted through. These trap water and rot quickly from the inside out. If I was to install a nice pair on a car, I'd seal the edges upon installation, personally.
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Great buy! I think it's a great car. I've never bought an old car that I was looking for beforehand. The best deals come along when you're not looking. Fortunately for you you were in a position to buy!
Here is what I would recommend.
Parting that Roadie would be crazy - it's way too nice.
1) Solve the issues with the overheating on the Super this year, and then rebuild that engine and put it along with other needed components into the Roadmaster, replace all the consumables including whole brake system including lines, and get the car in good driving order.
2) Buff out the paint on the Roadmaster and drive it as is until you're ready for more. It looks to me like a good cleaning and buffing will really bring out the potential in that car.
3) Buy a set of the reproduction J-bars off Ebay for the rear bumper before they sell out. There was only a small run made, and I highly doubt they will ever be made again. For the price, you could hardly rechrome a good set of cores and they rot out easily. Just look at yours compared to the overall condition of the car.
4) Enjoy like hell!
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10 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
I got rivits at a local ACE hardware store. There were solid core ones and hollow core ones. Solid core ones seem a bit overkill in this situation.
I got these at ACE too. These were the only ones with the correct diameter at my store.
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21 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:
Thanks, interesting, not what I was expecting.
I guess they are actually steel not AL, but are small and malleable enough. I just laid the ashtray on its side on top of the flat spot on top of my bench vise with the lip hanging over, and used a flat-nosed air hammer tool and a hammer to mushroom it out a bit.
Anyway, I got them at local hardware store but this should be the same thing:
https://www.rivetsonline.com/10-oz-steel-tinners-rivets/tr-062s
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11 hours ago, Smartin said:
It’s always a good idea to INCREASE the price if the car won’t sell.
Better buy it quick before it goes up more!
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3 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:
Valves, Springs and Guides arrived from Egge today!!
Awesome! Your family must have been excited!
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We've got hub cap!
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21 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:
a photo of the side showing the rivets please and the source if you don't mind. think I will need the same for the 38's ash trays.
Brian, here are a few pics. I got these rivets at a local hardware store (small one with good selection, not a big box store). I'll be back there this week and double check the size.
If I did it again I'd cut the length down a bit on the spring side as they interfere with spring inside, although it doesn't really stop it from working okay. I don't think these will get used anyway.
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FB has its merits, but is to be employed with caution. I've met a couple good car guys there, but have learned to steer clear of the dipschitz, which are quite bountiful along with bad advice.
Bargains can be found there occasionally and that's usually the only time you'll sell something on FB.
There seems to also be an unwritten rule that ads for cars are to be written using run-on sentences only using as little punctuation and proper grammar as possible.
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A small victory today was had in getting the rear ashtrays assembled. This is one of those details which took way more time than some might imagine.
The lids had to be drilled out to remove, as did the knobs. To reinstall the knobs, I had to drill and tap a tiny hole in each knob and use a tiny screw with washers to affix it. I then had to find tiny rivets to reattach the lids, which I found in AL.
When I first sent these out for rechrome I could only find the ones with the black plastic knob reproduced. These ones are now available so I probably spent much more restoring these, but what the heck. The chrome looks great, they are made in the USA, and are original to the car so I'm happy.
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@MrEarl a 57 or 58 Cabellero?
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I don't think it will sell for anything near the asking price of $22,495.
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1953 Buick Skylark - $35,000
in Buick - Buy/Sell - Not Mine
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@Smartin is this the one that was for sale near you not too long ago?