lancemb
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Posts posted by lancemb
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17 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:
I do not know what happened to cause your stall but here is a situation I had with my 56.
I also have a 3 row core and a 4 blade fan. Several yuears ago when I was really just starting to drive it after a couple of years with minimal use, we also could only get ethanol blended fuel. There is no glass bowl filter for 56 but I did cut a clear inline filter into my fuel line just before the carb. It used to be I'd come home from a run and I could see the gas boiling in the fuel filter. This would happen nearly all the time. One time I drove on a hot day across the Hudson River to Troy NY. There I drove the stop and go across the narrow town and came to the base of the steep hill on the other side. When the light turned green I started out and about 50 ft into the steep hill it dropped dead. I opened the hood and looked around and I still remember the heat from the engine hitting me in the face. It was several minutes later that I closed the hood and it started and I drove it up the hill with no problem. Then I insulated my fuel line by using that 3/8" black plastic wiring loam. From the pump to the inline filter, then from the pump across the front cross member, and right into the hole in the frame as far as I could push it past the drivers side exhaust manifold. That stopped the gas from boiling in the fuel filter. For the last six years or so non ethanol blend has been readily available in my area. And I drive this car quite a bit without an electric pump installed.
It may not be the same as your car but it sounds similar enough to me. One thing you may want to try is to put the trans in neutral when in stop and go traffic conditions, and then bump the idle a bit to help move more hot air out from under the hood.
I like the idea of insulating the fuel hose, but hate the idea of how it would look on a car I've gone to painstaking lengths to keep original appearance in most aspects. However, I'll consider that as a last resort.
After doing some internet research, I think the winter blend gas could also play a significant role...
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16 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:
I really cannot tell. I would like to ask some additional questions though.
How old is/was the gas?
Was it an ethanol/gas blend, or non ethanol?
Do you have a temp gauge, and what was the running temp when stopped?
How many blades on the fan?
Do you have the glass fuel filter up front? and if so, did you notice if the bowl was empty?
Gas was from early March, so probably still winter blend, but not old. As far as I know all the gas around here may contain up to 10% ethanol. Temp gauge stayed exactly at normal whole time after it warmed up. I think it's a 4 blade fan - whatever it left factory with. Radiator is triple-row recored btw. I'm pretty darn confident it was not overheating. I have glass fuel bowl and it was not empty.
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1 hour ago, usnavystgc said:
Highway speed but, how long after you made a stop?
Not certain, but not too long I don't think. When it did start back up though, it started quickly, which makes me think fuel bowl was still full.
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44 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:
I would only change parts one piece at a time and then try to replicate the situation. Otherwise you won't know what caused the issue. And I would start by not changing anything till I got it home, even if it did mean taking the risk of another breakdown. The fuel pump should not be the issue since it started again. If it went bad on the way over then it would still be bad. The condensor may be a problem but again I would not change it till it happened again. Mostly I am with Phil on this one. Vapor lock from winter blend gas. Willie always says vapor lock happens before the fuel pump so I would insulate the fuel line running across the front cross member, from the drivers side to at least the flexible connector.
I hear ya, but I don't want to have to tow it home and time is not on my side to get this problem solved before the BCA meet. Perhaps I can just have them change the coil and see how that goes. If it dies on way home I can check for spark and go from there, like sitting awhile until it cools off.
Do you think the winter blend gas is a large factor? I could siphon some gas out before I leave and bring some replacement.
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1 hour ago, usnavystgc said:
Exactly what you are saying is what happens. I have found it does not have to be a hot day. Mine started doing this when it got in the mid to upper 60's here. The fact that it was at op temp for a while is further evidence of vapor lock. If you are driving at speed, the car will not typically vapor lock because there is a constant flow of fuel (fast enough to prevent it). When you stop or even slow, the fuel flow is not enough and vapor lock happens. You will not notice it until the fuel in your bowl runs dry. This typically happens a few hundred yards or more from your stop. The only warning you get is, your engine suddenly dies due to lack of fuel. While you're at a stop, the engine is running off the fuel in the bowl. When that fuel is gone, the car dies and will not start again until it cools down.
IDK what your elevation is there but, since I'm at 3K feet, the boiling point of fuel is very low at 5 psi (esp if you're running what's left in your tank from a winter blend). The summer blend may help but, in my case is hasn't helped much.
Hmmm. It's possible I suppose. It happened while I was cruising at highway speed though. I've never had this problem with a 57 so not sure what would be different with this one. I think I'll replace fuel pump back with newly rebuilt one which may have a little more PSI, and swap the coil. I may also block off the exhaust channels on the intake. For now though I think I'll send fuel pump and coil to shop for swapping and see how it acts on the way home. If I have an issue I'll try blocking the exhaust on intake.
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1 hour ago, usnavystgc said:
It sounds like vapor lock to me. The fact that it started at the body shop the next day with no issues should rule out the carb body shop dust and points theories (at least in my view). This is exactly what my 56 was doing before I installed my electric fuel pump. It would run fine cold but, once it got to operating temp, it would vapor lock once I stopped for any amount of time (red light, whatever).
It crossed my mind, except it was at operating temperature for awhile before this happened. There was also no discernable issue when coming to a stop and taking off just a minute before it happened. Also, it was not a hot day. I would expect some kind of warning if vapor lock issue, no?
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As some of you know, I've just gotten my 57 75R back on the road after decades of sitting and a 5 year restoration involving complete teardown and reassembly. Damn near everything is new or rebuilt. A couple weeks ago, after taking it for a short drive after which it had only been driven about 10 miles since reassembly, it died and would not restart as I pulled into the garage. That turned out to be a failed fuel pump rebuild, and rebuilder fixed the pump Ib sent back to then and confirmed the arm had come loose from the diaphram.
Last week I attempted to drive it to the upholstery shop 23 miles away and it died 10 miles from destination. It had been at operating temperature for awhile and was not overheating and the ambient temperature was about 72 degrees so not a particularly hot day, and there was no real warning and was running perfectly up to that point. I had it towed the rest of the was to the shop where upholstery is getting done and thought perhaps it's the old rebuilt fuel pump I'd put in it that now failed. However, the next day the shop fired it up no problem and it ran fine, got up to operating temperature and there was no sign of problems.
I know if I do nothing it will fail again, probably on the way home. I feel I have little choice but to bring them some parts to swap out, so I'm trying to figure out what it could be. I doubt there is something blocking in fuel system as everything is new and it ran after nothing changing other than the car cooling down. I'm thinking it's something in ignition system, and my first thought is a failing coil.
Any ideas?
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@HoosierDaddydoes your handle mean you have a connection to Indiana? In Indiana you can get a court order for a title, but it requires a quick police inspection for which the car must be in Indiana.
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1 hour ago, avgwarhawk said:
Shakedown cruise before the cruise was scheduled!
Yep, better now than on the way to the national meet!
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Well, today was finally the day the car was off to the upholstery shop. Crossing my fingers that it comes out well.
A couple weeks ago I was taking the car for a short drive and as I pulled into the garage it died and wouldn't start. Turns out the rebuilt fuel pump failed. I swapped it out with an old NORS one I had and it ran fine.
Then today, about 12 miles into the 23 mile trip to the upholsterer it happened again. It was running perfectly then just died, no warning. I had it towed to the shop (who also does full high-caliber restorations) so they'll hopefully let me know soon if this fuel pump has now failed. I sent the other one back to the rebuilder who confirmed that the arm came loose from the diaphram and it's due to arrive back tomorrow, so I'll have that one put back on if fuel pump is an issue again.
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Will it be in Lisle?
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It's a Roadie coupe that functions and has some new chrome. Seems reasonable!
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Aww man, that will make it hard to part out...
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Glad you checked in and you and the Buick are doing okay! Dash light problems are likely caused by a corroded headlight switch rheostat - easy to bypass.
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Not a single word for a description and seller has one friend on FB. Pretty likely a scam.
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I have never used the glue, but the Flex Tape is an excellent product, so I have high hopes for your fix!
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Perhaps I missed an official statement, but have you decided to fix and keep both cars now?
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That is really a gorgeous car, congratulations! Excellent color combination.
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Those were thick bumpers and don't tend to hold moisture. I'll bet they're in good shape and worth saving.
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Any idea how much the body weighs on a 57 Special?
in Buick - Post War
Posted
My guess would be 800 Lbs