Fred Rawling

1928 and 1929 lights and lenses are different. The lenses and bezels will not interchange.

Mark, I looked up both plugs at http://www.autolite.com. Under products, you can pull up a picture and data on the plugs. Both plugs have the same heat range but on 3077, the porcelin and electrode extend lower than the threads. Have you ever run the 3076 plug? I think that If I ever get my engine finished, I will try both to see how they burn. Do you run the 0.040 gap as suggested in the David Chambers article? Fred Rawling

Autolite #3076

Interestingly, my 1937 parts book lists that part number for 1937 ser 40 and part no. 1282884 for 1934 to 1936. Probably the later parts books just listed the later part number for replacement and did not worry about small differences in the parts as long as they worked. I have noticed that on head bolts. The 1937 parts book lumps 1925 to 1941 head bolts together where the 1930 book lists a different lenght for 1925 to 1930. Fred

Mark, I will call Kevin tomorrow and tell him that you answered his message. The problem the way I saw it was that the spacing between the grill and the hood side was not unform all the way down from top to bottom and there seemed to be no adjustment to fix it. The gap seems to be greater at the bottom than at the top. Moving the top of the grill shell away from the hood would give a greater gap than there was at the cowl. I think he said that the bottom of the grill could not be moved toward the hood. We looked at my 35 90 series and it appears to be the same.

Where do you get your fluid?

Thanks, Pete. 1927 is unique to that year. That was the first year that they used rubber in the motor mounts. Henri Hendricksen in Australia sent me a note on the 1927Buicks group that he has a set. I would like to find them closer but just finding them is an acomplishment. Fred

That is a good point that I did not think about.

The parts book calls them engine arm blocks. They hold the rubber motor mounts. The parts for 1927 Master ser. 120 and ser. 128 are unique to 1927 MASTER.

The parts book calls them engine arm blocks. The rubber motor mounts are held inside these 2 piece blocks. I need them for 1927 Master either 120 or 128 inch wheel base. They are unique to 1927. I can supply casting numbres if needed.

Here is what I plan to do on the wood grained dash of my 1935. The coating is starting to look like it is crystalizing. I am going to hit it lightly with 0000 steel wool to see if I can get the loose stuff off without cutting into the graining and then put a coat of clear varnish or verithane over it. I will experiment on one of the less visable sections first. This process worked on an under dash accessory ash tray that had a wood grain and a design painted or printed on the woodgraining.

Michael, What made you think that the 5:50 x 19 tires were too big? Fred

The runningboard rubber on 1926 to 1928 Buicks is even spaced rounded ribs. On the masters, the aluminum molding on the edge had groves in the top. On the standard cars, the top of the molding was smooth with a little curve on the top edge.

I would suggest you buy new reproduction handles. The used ones will eventualy break, usually sooner than later. You can buy them from www.bobsautomobilia.com in California or from someone in Australia or New Zeland. I do not have the name of the guy in Australia or New Zeland.

Try www.bobsautomobilia.com He has mirrors listed that strap to the side mount.

Michael, I would be real worried about a tread separation if you are driving at 50 mph. A tread separation could really mess up a fender.

Stuart, Thanks for the reply. My parts book shows the same bumper for all 1934 and 35 series 50, 60, and 90 cars. My friend has a side mount car and his rear gravel shield is 3 pieces. I tried to fit them to my car but I could not figure it out. His car is a 90 series 1934 and his frame number is 2714839. That is a number below the frame number for the change that is listed in the parts book. The parts book lists one part number for the right side of the gravel shield and for the left side up to frame number 2816567. It lists the inner piece to frame # 2794577. There is no reference to whether this is for regular jobs or fender well jobs. Further down on the page, it lists the Outer shields for left side and for the right side after frame # 2816567 for regular jobs. It lists the inner section after frame # 2794577 for fender well jobs. It is confusing. Any help you can give will be much appreciated. Fred

can anyone help me on this???

Jeff, Send me an e-mail. frawling@bristolhomeloans.com I may be able to help on the sunvisor. Your e-mail address on this forum is not working. Fred Rawling

The long grain cobra is correct. Header Bar? Is this the wood over the windshield where the gears to raise the windshield are located. If so, I can make a pattern for you. Fred Rawling frawling@bristolhomeloans.com

It looks like a typo error. Should it be 34 x 4 1/2 = 23 inch tire?

It would be a good idea to rebuild the fuel pump. The 17 year old diaphram will probably not hold up with the new gas.

Rebecca, The propeler shaft (drive Shaft) is inside the torque tube. On the transmission end of the propeller shaft there is a rubber seal that fits on the splines of the drive shaft to keep transmission fluid from getting into the rear end via the torque tube. If the fluid in the rear end is thin, not thick like 90 weight gear oil, you probably have a leaking seal. If the gear oil is thined by transmission fluid, you will wear out the gears in the rear end. You might try Steel Rubber or Bob's Automobilia for a new seal. Here are a couple of things to check: The rubber brake lines may be old and brittle therefore subject to failing. The radiator may be plugged with rust, even if you flush it out before start up, check as the car warms up to see if there are any cold spots on the fins which would indicate no water circulation in that area. Drain the gas in the gas tank and put in new gas. Fred R

Dave, I think that "ocena blue, two cream stripes on black moulding" means that the hood color is ocean blue and the belt moulding is painted black with 2 cream stripes on it. That would be black, cream stripe, black center, cream stripe, black. I came to this conclusion after reading the descriptions on other models.

Having been on many movie sets with my cars, I will give you this advice: If you love the car, stay with it. If you really love it, take it home with you at the end of the day. Make sure that you will be the one driving the car. If they want a stunt man to driver it, make sure that you have a copy of their insurance policy covering you and your car or do not let them drive it. I have personally seen glove boxes broken open in a parking garage with a security guard on duty, extras starting stick shift cars out in high gear up a hill, and a stunt man accidentally crashing a gorgeous 37 Chrysler into a gard post next to the steet. I have had to adjust the clutch the next day because they used the car after I left. Who ever drove it could not figure out how to drive it and slipped the clutch. All that said, it is still fun to go. They pay the extras $25.00 to use their cars. Through my agent, I get $150. to $250. per day.