jaxops

If anyone wants photos of these cars, I will be in Philadelphia at the end of this month (OCT), and I can email anyone who wants to see them. I will also update the missing details on these cars, as well as the 49 Limousine.

I am going up to Philadelphia at the end of October (this month) and will shoot some pictures and get better details on the hearse, and the 2 limousines, as well as the 49 limousine. Let me know if you are interested and I can email you pictures if I get your email address. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

I have to agree. Most of us certainly know what the problems are, and since a lot of us aren't independently wealthy, we know about when we will be tackling the problem. It is frustrating to have your car torn apart by a stranger, even though some of it is instructive. I pulled in to a car corrall several years ago, and some guy immediately was dissecting all of the apparent problems with my car before I even stopped the engine. Different scenario, same emotions though.

Breaking into the cliques is very difficult, and one of the major reasons that I stayed National AACA but dropped the local chapter for now. For those of us who work during the week, it doesn't help that a National AACA Tour that comes here has all of its events during the week. It is hard to interact with a group who are older, retired, and have strong "regional" preferences for members, meaning that people who move in aren't expected to hang around for long nor actually be permitted to influence the club. It can change with time, but it is frustrating. Life can be too short to put up with frustrations like that, so you move on and do it with another group, like a Marque-Club, or start your own. Just FYI on why AACA can become a suffocating experience.

All right! So I didn't know that the hoses just slip over the male ends! I have gotten into the habit of checking with you guys beforehand so I am ready for the "Quest" that usually results from a simple repair-mission on my Buick. Thanks anyway- fuel return line was very easily replaced. I drove the car a bit to make sure that it stayed fixed, so they we go. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

After reading the posts, I checked out Coker and Diamondback Tires. I have heard about the bubbling on Coker tires before, and that their tires are made by DOT code, in Mexico. I was advised by Coker to take a 225/70R15 tire for my 56 Cadillac Limousine. When I spoke with Diamondback, I was immediately advised that the tire I asked for was not strong enough for the load and the weight of the car. They advised me to go to a heavier duty tire, the 235/75R15. Diamondback Tires are made in the USA by several of the major tires manufacturers (Goodrich, Goodyear, Michelin, etc). I was impressed with their knowledge and concern that I get the best tire for the job. They did note that there is a checmical to repel UV rays, and the back of the tire mustn't touch the whitewall (don't stack them). No acrimony, just FYI that one needs to research all angles of a controversial subject and be cautious about where you expend your funds. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

According to the Fuel Line hose web site, the correct size for 70 is 3/8".

I need to replace the two fuel line hoses under my carburetor on my 70 Electra 455-4bbl engine. It looks like there is a small hose clamp way in there to the left of the ful line. I am not sure how the other end attaches though. Are there any tricks to replacing the hoses here that I should be aware of? Thanks in advance!

This will be a bad one. Even after it "stumbles over" the outer banks of North Carolina, it will have a lot of punch left in it. Nothing to fool around with- especially you in Sandbridge (the name says it all with a hurricane coming..) and the Category 1-3 flood areas of Hampton Roads. The Navy Metoccen web site has it tracking for Morehead City, NC now. Good luck and God bless you all. Stay safe.

Cadillac isn't the same marque as it used to be. They have gone to a European design that harkens back to the AMC Pacer. Doesn't everyone want a European sports car? Obviously high quality automobiles don't sell on the mass market. Cadillac gave up on the limousine market when one had to stretch them to make a limousine, and then it became too expensive to strengthen them enough to stretch them. GM doesn't have much to stand on these days- lots of plastic for the money you're putting out. The Cadillac Northstar engine is apparently full of power, but it's a lot of money to put out for a car that looks like the bulbous Chevy Caprice. Obviously we speak from a rare position these days, and we who love chrome, styling, interior roominess, are a minority. But if the cars are so great, why are so many Americans buying SUVs and vans? Probably because there are no roomy cars for families, and no station wagons for family/occasional hauling. Cars today have to be fast, aerodynamic (bubble cars), and copy the Japanese and Europeans. So- we're biased. My first two listed are our daily drivers. 1990 Mercury Grand Marquis 1989 Ford Crown Vic Station Wagon 1970 Buick Electra Convt 1956 Cadillac 75 Series Limousine

I see what you were talking about now. The bonnet web goes over the tire. Now I need to see if I can rent a set...or buy them. U-Haul is a no-go without renting their rusting relics they call trailers. They are also not capable of carrying the load of this car. Thanks again all- I'm getting close. I have the trailer rented, the truck and driver to assist- now just the bonnets and ratchets and we're in there.

Thank you all for your sage advice. I appreciate it. I will start a search for a 10-20K lb web and ratchet. I take it from Diz' comment that it goes over the tire only. In this case, the O-ring tie down point is on the outer edge of the trailer, alongside of the tire position. Any ideas on how the tie-down would work here? I could probably do each tire to the sides as Diz recommends, and then add a fore and aft strap to the axle. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I am trailering a 56 Cadillac Limousine down from Philadelphia and would like to know what specs on the tie-down straps I will need, and how to secure the car (where to attach the tie-downs on the car). The trailer is a full flatbed with die O-ring tie-down points. I don't want to bend the frame or damage the car by stressing the wrong spots. I am guessing that the correct method is to attach the J-hooks to the axles by each wheel? Any assistance here would be appreciated. I have another month to figure it out. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

If you are selling it, I am restoring my 56 Cadillac Limousine 75 Series. Mark Monaghan jaxops@bellatlantic.net <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

My Father is selling his 1949 Cadillac Limousine. The heads have just been redone professionally, and the car will be ready this week. The interior is original and in very good condition. The car is a beauty. It was purchased in New York City from the Rockefeller Family in the late 1970s. The engine has not been detailed but the car easily handles those hills in Philadelphia. Call Robert Monaghan, Sr for an appointment in Philadelphia- (215) 483-3512. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

My Father is selling three Cadillacs: 1980 Cadillac Limousine- needs repainting, body good, interior is perfect in blue velour, runs okay but needs work there. Priced under $1K! 1984(?) Cadillac Limousine SIX Door: This is a great car without those uncomfortable jump seats but a whole seat and set of doors added. The interior is perfect, the engine is very good, there is some lower door rust on the right rear-rear door. 1980s Cadillac Hearse: VG condition, good engine, very clean and original interior, has the extra slide-out wooden pallet with rollers instead of the regular mounted roller set in the hearse. Minor lower door rust. Call Robert Monaghan Sr, (215) 483-3512. Priced for fast sale. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

My Father is also selling three other cars: 1980 Cadillac Limousine- needs repainting, body good, interior is perfect in blue velour, runs okay but needs work there. Priced under $1K! 1984(?) Cadillac Limousine SIX Door: This is a great car without those uncomfortable jump seats but a whole seat and set of doors added. The interior is perfect, the engine is very good, there is some lower door rust on the right rear-rear door. 1980s Cadillac Hearse: VG condition, good engine, very clean and original interior, has the extra slide-out wooden pallet with rollers instead of the regular mounted roller set in the hearse. Minor lower door rust. Call Robert Monaghan Sr, (215) 483-3512. Priced for fast sale. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

My Father is selling his 1949 Cadillac Limousine. The heads have just been redone professionally, and the car will be ready this week. The interior is original and in very good condition. This car was purchased from the Rockefeller Family in New York City in the late 1970s. The engine has not been detailed but the car easily handles the hills in eastern PA without any knocking. Call Robert Monaghan, Sr for an appointment in Philadelphia- (215) 483-3512. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Count me in. I emailed my own 70 Electra story and a photo from the HCCP site. Keep me clued in as this progresses. I know another 70 Electra guy in Richmond that might want to join up as well. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

I'm in also- it's been raining every day on and off in Va Beach so mine hasn't been out much. Hopefully the weather will break by SEP. Keep us posted and we'll do it.

For sale- used wheel covers (4) for a 69 or 70 LeSabre. Chrome full covers with the tri-shield in the center hub. $75 for all four with buyer paying for shipping.

I bought a Kanter carpet set long before 70 Buicks were considered a worthwhile restoration venture, and not much was available at the time. The carpet has held up very well, however, there is much too much "hump" in the carpet. My transmission hump isn't as big as the carpet allows for, therefore I have had to add padding under it to fill it out. It makes the floor "mushy" looking. My question is this- would it be better to trim the hump down and sew it, or replace the carpet and hope that the new carpet kits are a better fit. Anyone else suffereing from "too much hump" in the carpet? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Many thanks- I feel ready to tackle this now.

I am preparing to replace the MIDAS master cylinder with a CARS replacement GM master cylinder. I read the notes about taking off the lines bolts with a special tool. Will I need to replace the brake lines as well leading up to the master cylinder even if they match up (which is probably a "reach" that they would match the original parts alignment). [color:"blue"]

I have a few trim pieces only if you're interested. jaxops@bellatlantic.net<BR>