jaxops

Just another note to thank you for the assistance. The woodgrain piece was NOS, and perfect. It really cleans up the dash- and was a long time in coming.<P>

I have a set of 4 headlight bezels for a 70 Electra or 70 LeSabre. They are in Good condition with a few pits. Not show quality, but solid pieces. Email me for pricing and pics if required. jaxops@bellatlantic.net.

I have a set of 4 LeSabre full wheel covers for a 69 or 70 LeSabre. They are shiny chrome with the 3-shield centers in VG-excellent condition. Serious inquiries only for pictures. $25 ea or all 4 for $85.00. Shipping would be about $12.00 in CONUS.

I need the window assy scissors and cam assembly for the left front driver's door on the 70 Electra. I do not need the window motor. How much do you want for it?<BR>jaxops@bellatlantic.net<BR>

Well, my prediction is:<BR>1) The oil companies have been trying to get us to $2.00/gallon for years. They're slowly getting us used to higher prices.<BR>2) A lot of those SUV trucks will start disappearing from the roads being used as daily "cars."<BR>3)This is the same mularkey (even more contrived) than the so-called oil crisis of 1977.<BR>4) Some consumers want to boycott EXXON & MOBIL so that they will force prices down across the board.<P>I'd say that the "rat-b's" have got us good, and they know it. In the South especially, we've paved over the rails and discounted public transportation.....now we pay.<P>I don't know if boycotting will help, but riding together to work, and cutting out little runs to the store certainly will cut down the costs (buy your food for 2 weeks, instead of shopping for your dinner that night- (a California thing)).<P>The counter-argument is that we've had it better than Europe for years and years. I say "foosh" to that. As collector car owners, we're some of your most dedicated customers. Let the lobbying begin!!!

Get a copy of CARS & PARTS Magazine, or Hemmings Motor News. Most good book stores have them. There are a number of dealers in antique bumpers.

I would try Buick farm. I bought my NOS switch for my 70 Electra there.<BR> <A HREF="http://www.buickfarm.com/index2.asp" TARGET=_blank>http://www.buickfarm.com/index2.asp</A> <BR>

Well that worked. Buick Farm came through via the magic of web-cam pictures of the correct part. Luckily it was easy to remove to bring topside to make pictures of. I probably should replace the connectors now, as they seem pretty brittle.<BR>Otherwise, AC-heater fan is up and running!<BR>Thanks to my many new Buick-friends!!

Ah the latest- queries to junkyards and Buick farm for a "cam and scissors" assy for the LH window of my 70 Buick. I never would have guessed that the window cam would break.

Drop me an email if youn still need help, and I can send you back the Fisher Body manual procedure for this- if you need it.<BR>jaxops@bellatlantic.net

I think that you meant to put a "happy guy" on your post instead of the "unhappy guy."<BR>(Happy Easter and God Bless us all).

SUCCESS! Mike from Cold Air Products has the exact woodgrain faceplate sticker for my 70 Electra. Wunderbar Mike. Another long-time project being completed!

ANOTHER SNAG-<BR>Yes, as always. I have easily replaced the window motor and adjusted the regulator, and installed the converter plug. The slippage problem is my main gear on the window regulator. It seems to have a smoothed spot that causes the window from going up. Even the new motor's pinion can't get by it.<BR>Anyone know a source for the window regulator gear? It looks like it's all one piece with the scissors slide-mount. (1970 Buick Electra).<BR><P>------------------<BR>

Heh PALLBUICK- thank you for your excellent product. Thank you! It is great and really cleaned up the car- even though I put it in 7-8 years ago.<P>A/C TECH: I'll send you a *jpg of my spare AC HEATER panel. Thanks!!<P>------------------<BR>

I learned an interesting repair point. I ordered a replacement window motor from classic Buicks of California. The Delco motor is exactly like the original, except that it covers 1953-1976. Therefore, it has an exposed gear on the motor transmission. For my 70 Electra, I have a reduction gear in plastic with a coupling gear that goes over the window regulator actuator gear- then the motor cups over the plastic reduction gear. (Nothing is easy).<BR>Well- I learned that the extra plastic reduction slips right out and the new motor syncs in directly onto the window regulator actuator gear.<BR>Okay- maybe you all knew that, but I fell into it by accident since the plastic reduction and pinion fell off when I was positioning the new motor around in there. Yes! An epiphany! If you get this motor, be sure to order the conversion plug. Radio Shack no longer carries all of the neat wiring stuff that they used to.<BR><P>------------------<BR>

I wouldn't steam clean unless it was canvas or something. That would be tough on a vinyl top, and on a plastic back window. Mild soap, a SOFT brush, and there are some convertible top cleaners (Meguiars or Mothers) out there would be enough. It shouldn't take much to clean it- don't scrub it like I did to my Mercury's landau roof....Oi!<P>------------------<BR>

Does anyone know the best way to replace the wood grain for a 70 Electra's A/C-HEATER control panel? I found a place and replaced the strip from the steeing column to the radio, but not the ac control panel. The ac-heater selector, and the fan control speeds are etched in clear so that they will light up from behind.<P>"Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?" (Ferris Bueller's Day Off)<P>------------------<BR>

I concur, and I think that Metro is best as long as you stick to the moulded pieces, not the generic ones. After market rubber doesn't tend to hold up as well as the originals did. I think a lot of it is based on how well you put it in and let it dry before closing the door/trunk.<P>Mark Monaghan (70 Electra- been there several times! although my trunk I only did once 20 years ago)<P>------------------<BR>

I agree that one wouldn't receive credit, unless AACA rewrites the rules on the membership drive to include Junior members. They are handled as a semi-autonomous group within AACA. AACA clubs allow junior members to attend as non-voters at club meetings, and encourage them to be at all club events, but they don't count towards AACA full membership...but what a great source of potential new members!<P>------------------<BR>

I had both of my 70 Electra bumpers done and they ran about $250.00 for the front (6-7 years ago) and $310.00 for the rear (3 years ago). Both were triple plated for show. I'd say that the prices commented on are right in there.<P>------------------<BR>

I just answered my own question. Coker Tire stated today, that the J78x15 will be "bias-ply" meaning, not steel-belted; and that they may or may not use the dual white wall on it. Hopefully they will, and that info hasn't bled down to then sales department yet.<P><BR><P>------------------<BR>

"Beauty" Greg! By "belted" does that mean that they are like the new steel belted radial tires with wide whitewalls for the 1950s cars, or are they the dual-ply that they had back then?<P>I'm very interested. Thanks for the leg-work on this!<P>Mark<P>------------------<BR>

Thanks RP, and everyone! I ordered a replacement NOS relay from Buick farm. It's in the "order processing stage", so it may be a while- but you're right about parts stores. Unless it's a NAPA or real parts place, they won't know what to do, eg: Advanced Auto Parts, Pep Boys parts are all for Euro-Japan cars and trucks. <P>NOS seemed like the best move. Thanks for all ov the help! The high and middle 2 blower stops work well with just the cleaning.<P>------------------<BR>

I agree with Frank. If the ground is loose, one can rotate the ignition and the engine won't shut off.<P><P>------------------<BR>

Just to add on here:<BR>Yep, they're leakers! I use MOA (Motor Oil Additive0 from time to time to keep the lifters free. My 70 Electra still leaks after sitting through the Winter from time to time. There can be warping of manifolds or just old gaskets/seals. The rebuild is the only way to go. If you do it, knock out the other big-ones like mains while it's opened up.<P>A note on starters: A high-torque starter is recommended. It's hard to find a good battery, so a truck battery with a lot of cranking amps keeps one from going through starters as I did when I first got the car. <P>------------------<BR>