old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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While you have it apart you can inspect the universal and the bushing in the torque ball. I had TROUBLE with the vulcanized torque ball retainer from CARS. I got one from Bob's Automobilia ( made by Steele Rubber ). It may be worth it to cancel or return the item to CARS.
Willie
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Dan
Wheatbelt should have some servicable used ones.
Now for clarification for me and you: There is no rear universal joint, only a front and that is actually in the rear of the transmission. Why do you think you need a universal joint? The reason you are having trouble finding one is that they are low failure items.
Willie
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Lamar
No first hand knowledge of Duro tires, but it "looks" to be a good tire. Just be sure it is not steel belted since you will have the same separation problems as the radials.
Willie
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Lamar
You're right about the Carlyle tires being junk. Don't buy any, but look at them closely and memorize or take a picture of the tread pattern, because they make a lot of different brands with the same tread. For your open trailer I recommend bias ply since they age better than radials. Use 700-15 8ply or 750-16 8ply depending on your rim size. The rubber in radials will not stick to the steel belts more than 4-5 years before separating whether you use them or not. You will have to have your tire shop order or check a farm co-op store.
In times past we used to wear out a set of bias ply on our car or truck and then use them for another 10 years on the trailer...not anymore.
Look at the tires on a U-haul trailer...bias ply.
Willie
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No pictures?...I did have my newfangled phone that has a camera and video, but did not take any. That's because I'm too cheap to buy the software to get it from the phone to the computer and I am definitely too cheap to pay for sending over the phone network.
Willie
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Today I went to a local car show without a car for the first time in years. It was a treat to talk to others about their car instead of talking about mine for a change. Anyhow there were 3 Buicks: a spectacular (sorry Pete for borrowing your favorite adjective) all original low mileage 1951 Special Deluxe 4dr; a recently restored 1963 Skylark CVT; and a recently 'personalized' 1965 Gran Sport 4 speed with dual carbs. I had a long conversation about the Gran Sport and found that this car is driven and driven hard regularly (the rear tires are shredded and have a definite 'smoke stain' on the edges.
All of the owners were receptive to joining the BCA and local Alamo Chapter so maybe I can get a ride in one or all of these nice cars.
Willie
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Just a week to go before we play in the streets with our old Buicks.
I've been directing new members to the North Texas Chapter web site thinking the info would be there...so here it is!
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You can buy the same tires directly from Coker tire, same price, same shipping charges and you will not pay TX sales tax.
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John
Be sure the devices on the valve covers are actually breathers and not caps.
The original oil filters are as stated superior to spin-on replacements, although a little more trouble. Replacement elements should be readily available locally at quality parts stores under the Fram brand and Wix which makes filters for NAPA, Carquest and others. The Carquest number is 85121.
Willie
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Simple Green and use a red Scotch-brite pad to scrub. I have used the Coker WW cleaner with good results and they claim it will not crack the walls like Bleche White. For very nasty yellow walls the Bleche White is probably best: saturate and soak for 10 minutes, scrub, repeat as needed or until tired and disgusted.
Willie
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All good suggestions so far. Also doing the pressure checks as outlined in the service manual may help isolate the problem. The important ones in this case will be at the accumulators which are easy to get to.
Willie
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Derek
If the resistor is bad there will be an open circuit...any continuity, the resistor is good. The starter and solenoid are good if you got it to crank as described. With the key on, jump across the terminals on the carb switch; if no joy then the problem is in the starter relay or somewhere else in the wiring. Do not short the terminals on the carb switch to ground since they are not fuse protected and will fry your wiring harness before you can say 'fudge'.
The starter relay can be disassembled so that you can dress the contacts with a point file and any rivets can be peened with a center punch to increase the likelyhood of a good connection. While you are at it file the distributor points.
Willie
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Lamar
Is the proper oil listed in the 54 service or owners manual? Or is it just "special oil for vacuum unit"...like the "special oil for dynaflow"? I used motor oil when I assembled, but the reservoir has some wicks that move the oil to other areas and it seems that motor oil would be too thick for that.
Let me know it you want this unit and the rest of the power brake parts.
Willie
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I have been given some 54 Buick brake and suspension parts off a local member's modification project. I got the pump working and now need to fill the reservoir. Also what is the duty cycle on this unit? I am thinking of using it for testing wiper motors, A/C and heater doors, and make a brake bleeder. Or just give it to someone that needs it real bad for a restoration.
Willie
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Very pleasant surprise. Bill kept this secret better than most would with a new girlfriend. Sure makes the AACA site look drab in comparison.
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Your observations are apparently correct. I know 55 has detents and the 54 on my shop floor does not...I thought something was broken, although the rodder I got it from said it was working when removed.
Willie
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I use a method similar to the nails...use large flat washers between the coils while in a stretched state, and when relaxed the spring can be removed.
To install clamp the hook end of the spring in a vise and rock the spring from side to side and install the washer...remove after installed in the stretched state.
Willie
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The rust in the trunk is probably from water leaking into the trunk. The frame and rest of floors looks ok. Paint bubbles at the edges is the major unknown...
Willie
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Jump from the black wire coming from the starter solenoid (where it attaches to the relay) to the positive terminal. This will crank it and bypass all safety switches, so be sure it is in park or neutral.
Willie
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Yeah, Kanter may list the drums, but will not supply a picture, dimensions or specs. I have a used after-market drum that is standard, but it weighs half as much a stock Buick drum. How bad are your original drums?...they may be salvagable.
Willie
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I looked at at 74 LeSabre CVT offered for sale locally. I don't want the car at this time, but just checking to see if anyone has a "gotta have" wish for the car.
Exterior: good 20-30 footer straight, road wheels, few dents and paint (white) defects along with bubbles at edges (rear wheel openings, trunk edge, belt below top; all emblems missing except for 455 on grill. Bottom shows rust perforation on trunk floor only.
Interior: seats tattered esp drivers, door panels plastic crumbling, dash pad intact and even the steering wheel inlay is intact. Aftermarket radio and speakers and guages. Cruise and tilt and AC (shows 134A conversion)...did not turn on...cruise and speedometer not functional. Did not raise top...
Engine: non stock air cleaner assy. Engine bearing knock when started hot after sitting 10 minutes. Oil pressure ~5psi idling and 45psi at highways speeds.
Trunk: Rust!! everywhere on floor and crumbling edge where weather strip is attached.
There will of course be other yet undiscovered items...all can be fixed ($$$)...folks from the rust belt would consider this as almost pristine.
When I first heard of the car and the $3000 price, I was interested, but after restoring one rusty CVT I declined.
Oh, and the car rides and drives like a dream.
It is probably worth #3k...what else can you get for that price and use as a beater...and it is a Buick...and a convertible...I hope it is sold before I look at it again.
Willie
Local Car Show
in Buick - General
Posted
Winnipegger?...Now I get it, you are probably referring to a very frugal person from Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada....I first thought you were referring to a personal problem![eek.gif]()