old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Inside the outer retainer, there is vulcanized rubber bonded to the circumference, and this seals up against the torque ball. The torque ball needs to be smooth and polished for this to make a good seal. I don't know why Bob's told you that they wouldn't accept your old retainer as a core. It is exactly what they'll send you in it's place. </div></div>
Not exactly correct. The original outter torque ball retainer was a metal to metal seal using a soft metal that is probably copper. This is where you used various shims and the broom stick routine to get the right tension. Later replacement seals with the rubber vulcanized to the lip served the same purpose, but was different...you cannot vulcanize rubber to an original outter torque ball retainer...it will not work. No shims were needed on the later retainer other than to serve as a gasket. CARS sells an outter torque ball retainer without a core, but it will soon fail because the rubber is not compatible with oil; Fatsco transmission will sell without a core and is a recommended product/vendor.
Willie
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Tom
You should get whatever tire you feel the most comforable with.
Two other points that I cannot believe have not been discusssed
1- Some radial collector tires can cost nearly twice the bias-ply equivalent.
2- Radial tires after 6 years are old and deteriorating (google "tire expiration date") It will be harder to drive your investment out of them.
Willie
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If the plug is not sealed/seated this will happen. Replace the plug and be sure it is tight.
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In 1955 the Roadmaster, Super and Century used 3.41 early in the year and 3.36 later in the year. The Special used a 3.58 (referred to as a 3.60). Some Specials with standard transmission used 3.90 (rare).
The late year 55's changed to a ring gear bolted to the carrier in all series ( the early model year units along with prior units had the ring gear riveted to the carrier).
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I have not noticed a decrease in mileage on my older carbureted cars, but they are all pinging like crazy...and this is during the cool time of the year where high cylinder head temperatures are not a factor. On the other hand the newer computerized cars are getting about 10% poorer economy, probably because the computer retards the timing to run without pinging on the available fuel. There was some discussion on a local radio automotive talk show suggesting that selecting a higher octane grade fuel gives better economy, but the overall cost is the same.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You probably also believe in the Tooth Fairy. </div></div>
Welcome back Joe...we missed your wise assesement of people and situations. Looking forward to more.
Willie
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Some more points as to why I vote to disassemble: the filter media is there to intercept oil droplets so none is lost out the draft tube...the intercepted oil drains back into the engine maybe with some of the crud that was loosened by attempts to clean; if you take one apart it will be apparent that that is the only way to clean; clogged media will result in too much pressure build up in the crankcase causing leaks; it will take 2 hours tops and can be done without disturbing pretty paint on the topside if you use JBweld.
Willie
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Rick
Electric fuel pumps work best mounted near the tank...they push fuel better than pulling it. Also if there are any leaks between the tank and the pump, air could be pulled into line.
Willie
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Rick
The valley pan needs to be taken apart by drilling the spot welds on the bottom side. There is some aluminum mesh like in AC filters (that is what I used to replace). It will either be clogged or if ever tanked at a machine shop (caustic), the aluminum will be mostly destroyed.
Reassemble by welding, brazing or JB weld.
Willie
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Gary
Keep thinking and don't stop entertaining us.
Just replace the mounts and set the body on them. If some are loose and there is a space between the body and the mounts add shims as required; then tighten all.
Willie
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Rick
You have described a vapor lock problem and/or inadequate fuel delivery. At 20-30mph the carb runs dry and if no more fuel is delivered it dies or trys to die. Here is an old thread that mentions my troubles with vapor lock . I can usually deal with the vapor lock after idling in hot weather, but the high altitude plus heat is harder to fix: I have now wrapped my fuel line from the pump to the carb with insulation.
Willie
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Bill
You probably need a different clutch release (throw out) bearing that has a shorter or longer reach or change the fulcrum location of the release arm...maybe one from the Chevrolet(?)
Willie
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Tom
Kits are available. Check your service manual for the rebuilding procedure to see what is involved, then go for it. Then check with these nice folks for the kit.
Willie
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Gary
Watching you work brings to mind an old saying...something about "a bull in a china closet"
Willie
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The Lone Star Chapter invites you to their 21st annual Buicks and Bluebonnets Tour.
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Just a reminder that the meeting will be all business
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Pat
If you can wait a little longer, I plan on getting pictures and description of this same project that a friend is doing to a 54 Century 322. It is a few weeks away from driving and stopping under its own power. After that we will make a date for a drag race to see if a more modern step gear transmission can beat a stock dynaflow.
Willie
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Roy
Enough of the snow pics...no snow in San Antonio area. Good WEATHER forecast for next weekend.
If time permits were might get to smoke the tires on one of my toys.
Willie
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Larry
Use hydraulic jack oil only.
Willie
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Gag! That is nasty!
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Larry
I can't help with the adaptation you requested. The original shocks are better than any tubular if functioning as designed and not leaking.
This is how I do it.
Willie
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The early dynaflows had a characteristic whine that is hard to describe. Put that together with manifold noise and exhaust note of the straight 8 you should be able to tell that it is a Buick when riding in or driving by even if blindfolded. All 3 of my 55's have a slight whine from the rear at ~50mph constant speed that is not present if accelerating or decelerating thru that range.
Willie
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Pat
I installed a cam in my convertible with similar specs. It was a reground 56 cam and I used stock 56 lifters and pushrods along with rebuilt rockers. It ran very well at higher rpm's but was much more sluggish than stock with the dynaflow in Drive using the stock 3.4 rear gears. I changed to 3.6 gears from a Special and now the drivability in Drive is similar to stock, but it also starts cookin' sooner. Everything else is stock: carb, single exhaust with quiet muffler, etc...it probably would do better with dual exhaust, more carb and 3.9 rear gears, but it is still fun as is.
Willie
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Roy
I don't know if the 63 dynaflow torque converter can be removed from the transmission like modern transmissions. The earlier dynaflows had a converter that had to be separated...remove the front cover, then unbolt from the input shaft. If yours has a ring of bolts around the front of the converter, it will need to be disassembled. Which means the engine will need to be disassembled first.
Start by removing the rocker assemblies...if the valves and/or the rockers are frozen the engine will not turn. Use a pry tool between the starter ring gear and the block to try to move the crank. A 2' bar on the ring will give more leverage than a 10' tool on the front crank bolt. If no joy continue disassembly of the engine to find the reason why it is stuck: heads, pan...some are so bad that you have to cut the rods to lift the crank out and then detach from the converter.
Willie
1957 wagon update - engine is done!
in Buick - General
Posted
I hope that a machine shop mistake that happened to me twice did not happen here. Generic shims were placed under the outter valve springs and covered the recess in the head for the inner valve spring resulting in binding. It too ran for a few minutes and stopped. We found bent pushrods, bent and broken rocker shafts, broken rocker towers, broken rockers, bent cam and cracks in block at the central cam webbing. I caught the mistake on the second engine...this was after I insisted that they pay particular attention to this...I have heard of other nailheads dying this way.
Willie