old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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NAPA and other parts stores including Autozone will have a truck/bus battery that the battery hold-down fits exactly, but is little bit taller than the original ( you may have to get longer bolts ). I can get the size number off one of mine if interested.
Willie
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Hey Steve
It is positioned for installation in the picture. You and others are welcome to borrow also. Here are links to other pictures:
I made it from front and rear flanges of an old torque tube...the front flange is halved to fit the groove in the rear of the drive shaft.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am afraid to figure what its going to cost me to drive to Seattle for the Nationals.
5,000 miles @ 13 mpg = 384 gallons say 400 gallons of gas.
400 * 3.50 = $1400 400 * 4.00 = $1600 400 * 4.50 = $ 1600
WOW ! </div></div>
It still will not cost as much as my trip or your trip to Batavia.
While you are trying to get depressed add in the cost of lodging, meals and booze...
You are in the $.25 per mile range...just think of it as dropping a quarter in a slot once a minute...plink...plink...plink...
We should not be rewarding thieves like this but I am going anyway.
Willie
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If you change your mind I have a puller/installer that I made. You can borrow it at any time. It has been used on 4 driveshafts and none needed straightening after installation on the splined pinion.
Willie
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Abraham Lincoln:
'Tis better to be silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
I ain't tellin' none of my stories until until there are much worse tales...
Willie
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Sound like the problem I had ( Link ).
If your replacement shoes were made by Raybetos that may also be the problem.
Willie
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Some numbers...
Consolidated seal:
25 x 35 x 7 MM
National seals:
471413
472560N
471466
You should be able to look up the specifications and compare to your measurments...
Willie
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I obtained the seals from some local stores that are not in the business to do international orders. The companies in the business to rebuild steering gears will not sell parts. Some of the seals that I used were metric equivalents since the original is no longer available. It will be a few day before I can find all of the part numbers that I used. In the meantime if you have it apart measure your shafts and housings and seal thickness and see if some local metric seals will work. Also measure the thrust bearings to see if some from THIS company will match
Willie
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Hi
I rebuilt 2 units for a 55 Century last year and can get you the part numbers for the lip seals if interested. The O-rings were just matched to the old ones. I cannot help with the bearings either.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Remember, when I was restoring my 55, I had two Senior cars and an original to compare mine to. I was instructed where flat paint was supposed to be and, well, kinda ignored it . I listened to Willie when I really needed to. </div></div>
Since I knew that Mike was going to drive his car all over the country to shows, I actually encouraged a glossier finish under the hood since it cleans up better than semi-gloss or flat and does not stain or water-spot as easily. It is also easier to match when touched up and any paint with flattener is less durable. I also knew for what the judges would and would not deduct points.
Willie
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How to stop rear main seal leaks
I have worked with early 322 nailheads and one 47 straight-8, so yours should be similar. Some of this can also apply to other engines with rope seals.
Some assumptions: You know how to get to the rear main bearing cap and remove it and you know what a rope seal is. The engine is in the car and the crankshaft is installed.
Do not remove the upper seal. If it is not now absolutely flush take a portion of the used lower seal and stuff in the gap with a suitable tool. It is ok if it protrudes some. Take a 12 inch length of heater control wire, sharpen one end and install it into the groove that the upper seals sits in using a 6 inch length of brake line to keep it from kinking. Using vise grips push 1/4 inches at a time until it shows up on the other side. Install 2 pieces. Cut the wires flush with the block.
For the lower seal that goes in the cap take the piece that is supplied for that engine, bunch it together and flatten it and place it in the groove in the cap. Bunch it some more to make it fit while pressing it into the cap with a piece of exhaust pipe about the same diameter as the the crankshaft journal. Never cut or trim a seal to make it fit. It is OK and desirable if some seal protudes from the cap. (For situations where the crankshaft is out of the engine, remove this seal from the groove in the cap and place it in the groove in the block; repeat for the lower seal.) Fold any stray strands of the seal to the center so they will not get caught between the
clamping surfaces. Install the cap and torque to specs. Remove the cap and trim any stray strands that got clamped. Put some gasket sealer on the clamping surface of the cap. I use an anaerobic sealer. Dribble some engine oil on the seal only until it is saturated. Install and torque to specs.
To seal the groove in the sides of the cap I take some cotton twine coated with some No. 2 Permatex and hammer it to stuff it tightly in the groove using a large flattened nail until it is level with the top and cut.
Willie
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How much gas is in the tank? If you don't have at least 5 gallons the fuel pump will take a long time to pump fuel if the line is dry.
Another thing to try is to blow air into the gas tank filler, sealing with a rag. If now go, disconnect the line before the fuel pump and gas should come out...work your way to the carb. Look for leaks in all lines especially the suction portion (tank to pump) which would cause the pump to pull air rather than fuel.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and get a large can to catch the gas. Remove the high voltage wire from the coil to the center terminal of the distributor. Have a friend turn the engine over and see how much gas you are getting to the carburetor. </div></div>
John, you can probably do it this way on a 6V straight-8, but not on the 12V V-8 early nailhead. If you remove the high voltage lead from the center of the coil a spark will jump out to the (-) terminal when cranked even if the key is 'off'. The coil is right behind the carb under the fuel line... This is not theory; it will catch fire. I was lucky when it happened to me...I had just finished washing the car and still had a pressurized hose with a pistol nozzle on the end laying next to the car. Best to remove the wire from the (+) side of the coil ( and tape it since it is not protected by a fuse ).
Willie
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If you turned the drums and (manually) adjusted the shoes, as outlined in the service manual, after installation there will be no scraping.
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As Adam mentioned working from the bottom may help. There may be a nut plate or caged nut that can be chiseled from the bottom and then replaced with a regular nut.
Dang EZ outs have never come with good directions or indications for proper use. The ONLY times I have had success is when I break a clean lubricated bolt during installation! And even that will not work if the bolt is bottomed out in the hole. Think about it: If the existing head of a rusted bolt will not move it, how can a 1/2 size tool do any better? And when (not if) it breaks you have the additional problem with the hard steel stuck in the hole.
It is best if you leave the EZout on the shelf and drill the bolt. I use reverse drill bits in increasingly larger sizes which will sometimes grab the bolt and back it out as a shell. Usually I have to drill oversize and use a tread repair like Helicoil. I witnessed a neat trick to extract a 5/16 bolt from an installed cylinder head that could not be drilled: the mechanic placed a washer over the remnant of the bolt that was flush with the cast head and welded the bolt to the center of the washer; he then welded a nut to the washer. Apparently the welding process will not 'stick' to the cast iron as readily as the steel bolt.
Willie
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Heat is always a good thing, lots of it in this case to un-temper the ez-out. If enough is exposed choose a nut that will just slip over it and weld it to the ez-out. After you get it out drill the bolt and install a thread repair like helicoil.
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I noticed the codes but did not record them before returning. I asked Carquest if I could get an update on the disposition or diagnosis and all I got from them was a bunch of crying about how they were going to have to eat the cost of my refund. I am just glad they are gone and never again...
Willie
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Kevin
I don't know what brand or grade they used...I just asked for something that would solve the problem and it did. The shoes ended up costing twice as much as the parts store shoes. I tried to find some NOS/NORS asbestos shoes but could not find two sets of the same brand. Stay away from shoes with old bonded linings...riveted are OK.
Willie
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Bob wins with the correct solution to the problem.
I took the shoes back to CarQuest and they said they did not know if they can be returned for a refund. I said nothing and just stared...in a few minutes they asked me if it would be alright the put the refund on the credit card. By the way did I mention that these were Raybestos shoes?
Willie
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Well I finally replaced the shoes and braking is normal! I had some old shoes relined at San Antonio Brake and Clutch after explaining my problem which they say is common with Raybestos linings. Next project is to return the Raybestos linings for a refund.
Willie
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If the engine has previously been running and has been stored indoors it probably will not hurt to just start it. Just to be sure pull the plugs, put a few squirts of oil in each cylinder, change oil and filter, put a quart of oil in the filter canister before installing, crank the engine with the plugs out until you have oil pressure, do a compression check to be sure no valves are sticking open, and then replace the plugs and fire it up. Run at fast idle and watch for leaks (coolant, fuel) and watch the temperature guage. Once the temperature stabilizes shut it down and let it cool, check the coolant level and add as needed. Any abnormal noises, loss of oil pressure or temperature spikes require a shutdown and call back here for help. Oh yeah...enjoy the smoke!
Willie
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More trivia: The backside of the wheels was painted a primer color...the 5.5 in wheel used on the Special was a gray primer color and the 6 in wheel used on the other series was a red/brown primer color.
Wheels were supplied by Motor and Kelsey Hayes. The snap-in clips that attach the small hub caps will not interchange between the two wheels.
Willie
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Probably more information than you need: My 55 century CVT originaly had body color wheels, pin stripes, the small caps and beauty rings. Specials I have seen with the small caps did not have pin stripes or beauty rings, although the wheels were body color.
Wire wheels were the ultimate...
Willie
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Cherokee Red was an option instead of the standard black if the full wheel covers were used. The body color wheels were for use with the small 'dog dish' hub caps.
Willie
54 Buick Starter Relay Wiring Post Help!
in Buick - Performance and Modified
Posted
Those relays are made of "unobtainium". They show up on ebay occasionaly but are grabbed by the Chebby boys for high prices and last minute snipes.
Take yours apart, file the contacts with a point file, if there is corrosion around the rivets drill them out, clean the surfaces and replace. This has a chance of working unless the coil is shot.
Willie