old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Lamar
Some will tell you to toss them, but try repeated soaks in hot water and dry in oven at 120*. I can't tell you how many time this 'Po-boy' did it in the past with good service until the next time the cylinders leaked (cyliners that were rebuilt on the car and 'honed' with sandpaper). Buy new wheel cylinders...I use some from NAPA and they are lifetime guaranteed.
Willie
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More than you probably want to know about LIFTERS .
The ebay parts #48000 and #48004 are TRW numbers and may be available locally if you ask by number.
If you only need one or a few pushrods, I have some used ones...free.
Willie
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Ken
Others have offered good suggestions/possibiliies. Two other considerations: float sticking in up position; dirt in bowl causing intermittant plugging of one of the main jets especially if you have the Rochester carb.
Willie
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Joe
I too have used Bondo with no problems, it is easier to work with to get the cosmetic results you want.
Willie
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Bob's part number for the outter torque ball retainer is TBR-483. (1948-60 dynaflow)exchange. Steele's number is 50-0190-29 (revulcanize only).
Call Bob's again and 'educate' them. If yours has the original retainer (no rubber) it is not suitable for revulcanizing or exchange...I have one you can have if needed. You will also needd other parts to seal the shaft and gaskets (shims).
Willie
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Winnipegger?...Now I get it, you are probably referring to a very frugal person from Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada....I first thought you were referring to a personal problem
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While you have it apart you can inspect the universal and the bushing in the torque ball. I had TROUBLE with the vulcanized torque ball retainer from CARS. I got one from Bob's Automobilia ( made by Steele Rubber ). It may be worth it to cancel or return the item to CARS.
Willie
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Dan
Wheatbelt should have some servicable used ones.
Now for clarification for me and you: There is no rear universal joint, only a front and that is actually in the rear of the transmission. Why do you think you need a universal joint? The reason you are having trouble finding one is that they are low failure items.
Willie
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Lamar
No first hand knowledge of Duro tires, but it "looks" to be a good tire. Just be sure it is not steel belted since you will have the same separation problems as the radials.
Willie
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Lamar
You're right about the Carlyle tires being junk. Don't buy any, but look at them closely and memorize or take a picture of the tread pattern, because they make a lot of different brands with the same tread. For your open trailer I recommend bias ply since they age better than radials. Use 700-15 8ply or 750-16 8ply depending on your rim size. The rubber in radials will not stick to the steel belts more than 4-5 years before separating whether you use them or not. You will have to have your tire shop order or check a farm co-op store.
In times past we used to wear out a set of bias ply on our car or truck and then use them for another 10 years on the trailer...not anymore.
Look at the tires on a U-haul trailer...bias ply.
Willie
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No pictures?...I did have my newfangled phone that has a camera and video, but did not take any. That's because I'm too cheap to buy the software to get it from the phone to the computer and I am definitely too cheap to pay for sending over the phone network.
Willie
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Today I went to a local car show without a car for the first time in years. It was a treat to talk to others about their car instead of talking about mine for a change. Anyhow there were 3 Buicks: a spectacular (sorry Pete for borrowing your favorite adjective) all original low mileage 1951 Special Deluxe 4dr; a recently restored 1963 Skylark CVT; and a recently 'personalized' 1965 Gran Sport 4 speed with dual carbs. I had a long conversation about the Gran Sport and found that this car is driven and driven hard regularly (the rear tires are shredded and have a definite 'smoke stain' on the edges.
All of the owners were receptive to joining the BCA and local Alamo Chapter so maybe I can get a ride in one or all of these nice cars.
Willie
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Just a week to go before we play in the streets with our old Buicks.
I've been directing new members to the North Texas Chapter web site thinking the info would be there...so here it is!
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You can buy the same tires directly from Coker tire, same price, same shipping charges and you will not pay TX sales tax.
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John
Be sure the devices on the valve covers are actually breathers and not caps.
The original oil filters are as stated superior to spin-on replacements, although a little more trouble. Replacement elements should be readily available locally at quality parts stores under the Fram brand and Wix which makes filters for NAPA, Carquest and others. The Carquest number is 85121.
Willie
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Simple Green and use a red Scotch-brite pad to scrub. I have used the Coker WW cleaner with good results and they claim it will not crack the walls like Bleche White. For very nasty yellow walls the Bleche White is probably best: saturate and soak for 10 minutes, scrub, repeat as needed or until tired and disgusted.
Willie
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All good suggestions so far. Also doing the pressure checks as outlined in the service manual may help isolate the problem. The important ones in this case will be at the accumulators which are easy to get to.
Willie
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Derek
If the resistor is bad there will be an open circuit...any continuity, the resistor is good. The starter and solenoid are good if you got it to crank as described. With the key on, jump across the terminals on the carb switch; if no joy then the problem is in the starter relay or somewhere else in the wiring. Do not short the terminals on the carb switch to ground since they are not fuse protected and will fry your wiring harness before you can say 'fudge'.
The starter relay can be disassembled so that you can dress the contacts with a point file and any rivets can be peened with a center punch to increase the likelyhood of a good connection. While you are at it file the distributor points.
Willie
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Lamar
Is the proper oil listed in the 54 service or owners manual? Or is it just "special oil for vacuum unit"...like the "special oil for dynaflow"? I used motor oil when I assembled, but the reservoir has some wicks that move the oil to other areas and it seems that motor oil would be too thick for that.
Let me know it you want this unit and the rest of the power brake parts.
Willie
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I have been given some 54 Buick brake and suspension parts off a local member's modification project. I got the pump working and now need to fill the reservoir. Also what is the duty cycle on this unit? I am thinking of using it for testing wiper motors, A/C and heater doors, and make a brake bleeder. Or just give it to someone that needs it real bad for a restoration.
Willie
Brake job on a 54 Special
in Buick - Post War
Posted
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">With sincere respect to Old Tank, who is quite knowledgeable, brake shoes are cheap and your oil soaked ones will make dandy trade in cores </div></div>
Just offering a cheap solution to Lamar who is...well...cheap![blush.gif]()
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BTW brake fluid is not oil and is freely soluble in water and this tip comes from my mentor, a retired dealer mechanic who used this technique for individuals with limited funds. This was way before lawyers got involved. I agree that new shoes would be best...just don't use Raybestos brand.
Willie