old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Patrick
Hopefully you find a good tranny man that has seen a dynaflow before...who starts with an external inspection of the accumulators (still might be a blown low accumulator gasket as Bob suggested), pressure checks as outlined in the service manual; inspection of the valve body including the low servo and pressure regulator; then inspection of the low band lever and strut. One other test you can do is to see if low works AFTER the car has been in motion in drive...shift to LOw at 15 to 20mph.
I had to do R&R on a dynaflow 4 times and I don't wish that pain on anyone. Even though it 'may' have to be removed you can narrow down the source of the problem...maybe even repair without removing.
Willie
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Does Reverse work in addition to Drive?
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There used to be the option to display your real name in your profile, but that option disappeared after and upgrade..
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I use the 85w140...kinda like the 20w50 I use in the engine instead of 30. It apparently works well with no leaks. When I broke the axel on the way back from Batavia the shop that did the work used 75w90 and that worked and maybe even gave better gas mileage, but it seeped everywhere including around the pinion locking bolts. They also could not find a gasket or wanted to make one for the rear cover so they globbed on a bunch of RTV that leaked. I use Felpro 3019, Cork 1/8 12X36 Sheet to make my gaskets for the rear cover.
Willie
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You read too much and worry too much
. Anyhow you got me curious and I went to the shop to see what I have been using. The bottle of Pennziol 85w140 is rated GL-3, GL-4, GL-5. No failures in any of my 3 cars driven 5k-40k. This article seems to make the most sense. I have not inspected any of the brass washers, but did not see any metal particles a few months ago when I removed the differential cover to replace the gasket. This probably another 'non issue' like zince in motor oil.
Willie
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Lamar
The angled ones are correct...need to fit under the spark plug covers. Actually if he covers are in place you cannot see what kind of boot is used (mine have incorrect orange boots). Just use black wires with a real wire core.
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Lamar and Kevin, thanks for the responses. I have available a 1955 series 40 264 engine and a 1956 flywheel (322 engine). The engine is complete and running and I don't want to disassemble to balance. I have some working inquiries to see if I can have the 56 flywheel balanced like the original 55-264 flexplate... a 264 flywheel would be easier. Alternately I might try to get a 322.
Willie
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What are the differences between 53-54-55-56 nailhead flywheels? For instance 55 lists 2 flywheels: one for the 40 series and another for the other series. I know that the 40 series uses a 10" clutch and the others use a 10.5" clutch and there would be difference in the location of the pressure plate attachment holes. Is there other difference like balance, since these engines are externally balanced?? Could the flywheels be interchanged between the series if using the appropriate clutch?
Willie
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Kevin
On my 55 CVT (66C) I cut down hardtop spring for the seat bottom and used a chunck of firm foam for the seat back, using only the main frame of very rusty seat.
Willie
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This is one thread that the moderators should watch...before someone posts a picture of a "healthy" ol' boy bent over the hood with a plumbers butt showing. No crack allowed here...
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At the bottom of each page is a list of the moderators. BUICK RACER is listed first on the BCA forums. Maybe the modderators should be the ones to moderate the forums. They are most familiar with the tone and individuals.
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Right on Lamar! There was nothing political about the posts, except that here it is not politically correct to be patriotic. I've locked horns with Peter in the past over moving, closing and deleting posts...he is still in charge and I am still here, but for how long...
Willie
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Kevin
I have what appears to be a complete column from 54 Century w/dynaflow. The piece you need is intact. The whole column needs to go...let me know it you can use.
Willie
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Ken
Whatever you do, don't order one from CARS. I had PROBLEMS ! FATSCO is you best bet since Bob's will charge a $50 deposit.
Willie
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PETA...I have heard of them: People Eating Tasty Animals...
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There is nothing wrong with doing your own wiring if you have the time and knowledge. Vendors of wiring kits provide a good service, but the prices are obscene.
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It is most likely a 322 that someone put a 2 barrel on it hoping for better economy.
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All 322 engines in 55 had a 4 barrel. The 322 used a harmonic balance while the 264 in the Special had simple pulley at the front of the crank.
Willie
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Ken
It seems that you have too many issues with the current rear and maybe should concentrate on the 55 unit. Record all measurements, take a picture of the current gear pattern and take apart checking all parts for wear, then assemble with a new seal. If the bearings are doubtfull replace with NOS or NORS (made when the cars were contemporary...not Chinese stuff sold by CARS).
The center block is not square...rotate 90* and you should have a thicker dimension. I have some servicible used pinion bearings if needed and new cannot be found; also some spider gears with bushings. The spider gears will normally have a "sloppy" fit and are not contributing to the rear noise since they only turn a little when cornering...compare the 2 rears.
Before a trip I noticed considerable axle movement on one of my cars (no noise or other issues)...thought that I would just have to rotate the center block, but found that there was not excessive movement at the axle ends, rather the whole carrier was moving on worn and pitted bearings.
Willie
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The 47/14 (actually 3.36) is late 1955 which will work. Don't mix parts since the pinion bearings on the 1955 unit is one year only. The other bearings and spider gears should be the same. That much lateral movement is probably well worn carrier bearings and/or wear on the axle ends or center block.
Take your best unit and rebuild replacing all of the bearings and seals.
Willie
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What happened to "58 Roadmaster 75" who started this tread? Did he get scared off or just confused...
Willie
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Parts from both of these suppliers needed considerable reworking to make them fit. Check with your local muffler shops and see if they have bending specifications for your car...both of the shops in my town have specs for 1955; or if you have remnants of the last system they can copy. Then all you have to buy is a muffler.
Willie
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Try this link .
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Any large city should have an uphostery distributor. If you cannot locate in yellow pages call a friendly local uphostery shop and ask where they buy or see if they will order for you. In my area in use J F Hagan in San Antonio, TX.
They supply 2 kinds of card board: exterior cardboard used for door panels (very hard to work with and is water resistant) and interior cardboard that I have used for kick panels, package shelf and trunk.
Willie
dynaflow just blew low
in Buick - General
Posted
Patrick
At 15-20mph the rear oil pump is supplying pressure, but apparently no help there.
Check out this site
for 56 specifics. Even if you don't do the work on the tranny yourself, you can get a good understanding to ask the right questions and be sure the answers are not BS.
Willie