old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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This is the size tire you should have (LINK) .
As you can see recommended rim width is 6-8in.
Put the tire on and enjoy.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I usually wind up disconnecting those things in my cars. I would not want smokers in the old cars for fear the ashes would catch the interiors on fire. I don't want them in the new cars either as I have had my fair share of burn holes in the seats from others.</div></div>
It also STINKS!
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One thing Bill did not mention was that English was not the old guy's first language...probably why he did not say much. Also when the police were called a spanish speaking officer was requested, a normal but sad situation around here and other locations.
Sueing in this county will get you next to nothing since most juries think a $2000 award is a fortune.
Willie
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Just a reminder to get your registrations sent. We need a head count for the awards banquet.
Good weather and fun is a guaranteed.
Willie
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Good job Joe and Stevo! Now every chapter will want to host a national. It's OK for us to drive to Michigan or New York for your party, but not the other way around. Our Alamo Chapter will probably not consider hosting since San Antonio is a 'destination city' and will be too expensive, too far, too hot... Just go to a regional and you will not have to associate with all those boring people.
Willie
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Ken
I would worry more about rims that are true with no out-of-round or wobble and cosmetically nice on the exposed outter edges. That is why I ran two 6in rims and two 5.5in rims on my Century...like sizes paired on the same axle. No problems with performance nor were the differences noticable at 122 inches. Where is Lamar when we need some measurements and/or photos...
Willie
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Ken
I was hopeing some else would jump in here. The BCA judging manual is all FUBAR with respect to tire and rim sizes for 50-60's Buicks. My point is your new tires should work well on the 6in rims...seems that you want more 'bling' with the chrome rims
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Willie
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Russ
There is no easy or reliable way to change the rear main seal without pulling the engine and disassembling.
Some things that may help: replace the bottom seal only; replace the rear main bearing along with the bottom seal; replace the bottom seal and install two pieces of throttle cable wire around the outside of the upper seal to increase tightness (if interested in the 'how to' check back). Don't even think of a replacement rubber seal without complete disassembly.
Willie
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Ken
Are you sure about the original rim size? In 55 all rims were 6 inches except the Special had 5.5 inch. I do know that the 53 Skylark used 6.5 inch wire wheels. I have never used radials, but others have on stock wheels. What size are the radials that you want to install?
Willie
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You can get good leverage by using a 2ft long screwdriver between the block and the ring gear. I have also rigged a plate that bridged some cylinder head bolts and use a long fine thread bolt and nut to push on the piston. Use a block of wood and then steel plate over the piston. If it does not move right away, tighten and leave over night and then tighten some more while tapping on the other pistons.
Willie
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Please suggest a source. I have a new harness with directions and locations of connections, but would like to verify.
Thanks
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Where does the gasket supplied by Carpenter and others go: under the bezel or between the wiper pivot and the cowl. The remnants of the old gasket were under the bezel, but the supplied gaskets are thick and are not shaped to match the bezel. Putting the bezel directly on the painted cowl will mar it since the bezel is rough on the bottom.
Thanks in advance
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What is the difference between a 4GC and an onion?...nobody cries when you cut up a 4GC.
Dave, like I told you Saturday the 4GC is the only carb that had me licked. I replaced mine on a 55 Century with a Carter WCFB that I cobbled from 3 junk carbs and i runs great for the first time in many years.
Willie
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Thanks everybody. I don't know if the cam is correctly indexed with the crank and do not know the specs on the cam. I did try installing the distributor one tooth either side of where it is now and it will not start, so that is ok. When it is running the best with the highest vacuum (20 in Hg with the vacuum advance disconnected at 400 rpm) the distributor is in the same position relative to landmarks on the engine as my three 322 nailheads. I will leave it there until I get the vehicle (engine swap into a 51 F-1) on the road. Then I will advance or retard timing depending on pinging under load and check the timing and vacuum again.
Willie
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First a little background. I am working with a 55 264 nailhead that had been "rebuilt" by probably the most inept individual in Texas. Already discovered problems include rocker shafts installed upside down flooding the valve guides with oil, 56 lifters but the longer 55 pushrods were used resulting in bent pushrods and low compression on some cylinders, and a replacement cam that has none of the markings that the stock cam for a 264 would have. These issues have been fixed. Anyhow timing with a timing light and set at the recommended 5* BTDC it will barely run, but smooths out at ~20* BTDC...this is at 400 rpm and the vacuum advance disconnected. The centrifugal advance and vacuum advance work OK connected and rpms increased. I have seen troubleshooting guides for vacuum gauges and one mention that timing can be approximated by rotating the distributor until maximum vacuum is attained. Now after all that, when using the vacuum gauge: at what rpm and is the vacuum advance connected or disconnected?
(This is not an issue with a slipped harmonic damper since the 264 has a simple pulley.)
After finding all the other problems with the "rebuild" I should have disassembled and checked everything, but it was running when pulled a few years ago--not well--but running and seems to run well at 20* BTDC.
Thanks in advance, Willie
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Ken
Probably different. The steering shaft might be longer in the 53 RM just as it is in the 55 RM vs Special. Also the 53 has an earilier frame that may attach differntly.
Best to get the right unit or rebuild the manual unit and use well inflated new tires...radial or bias and it will steer easily.
Willie
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Derek
Way back when I was driving a 55 regularly the tire sizes evolved from 7.60-15 to 8.45-15 to 8.55-15 to H78-15 to P225-75B15 (bias) or P225-75R15 (radial). Even though the width and diameter changed (they got lower and wider) the load range is similar.
Link to conversions give additional info. Also check the Coker web site or catalogue for size and load specifications of various sizes.
I vote for use of 8.55-15 for your kitty.
Willie
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Use Drive most of the time.
page 7 of owners manual: "Maximum acceleration from a standing start is obtained by starting in 'L' and shifting to 'D' at 35 mph.
The shift fron 'L' to 'D' or vice versa may be made while th car is in forward motion by merely flipping the lever. thes shifts should not be made at speeds over 40 mph."
You will learn when extra accelertion is needed and use low accordingly. If desired get a service manual and the function of the dynaflow is described.
Willie
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Glenn
The fuel pump probably dried out from inactivity and the valves are not sealing. It probably should be replaced or rebuilt.
There are a couple of things you can try. If your carburetor is the Carter WCFB you can take off the cover over the metering rods and slowly pour in 2 ounces of gas. This will fill the bowl and allow longer running that may jolt the pump back to life. Maybe applying pressure to the tank filler will move fuel past the pump. Also be sure you have at least 5 gallons of fuel in the tank.
Willie
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WTB: 53-56 four barrel air cleaner. I donnot need the silencer, just the base/reservoir and filter sections.
Thanks, Willie
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Flashing may establish/re-establish magnetism, but the main purpose is to establish polarity in the voltage regulator, ie negative=ground, positive="hot".
Examples: I once drove a 55 half way across the country with a broken battery cable. To start I held the stub of cable on the battery terminal and actuated the carb linkage (thanks vacuum start mr Buick) to start then left it on the fast idle cam until I got into the car to drive. As long as I kept the ammeter charging it ran. Driving at night was tricky and a few times the engine died when the charge dropped (repeat starting procedure). The only other issue was the headlights flickered in unison with the ammeter. Why not buy a new cable? Money enough only for gas and no tools and besides I was still moving...
Another example: I once rigged and old generator to an old reel mover engine and used it to power a couple of sealed beams for night fishing. No battery or regulator was used. The field was grounded and the engine speed regulated the output.
Now, disconnect the battery on a running engine with an alternator and see what happens.
Sorry for the thread hijack...
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Generators need voltage applied before they will produce voltage, alternators do not, which is why they are used. If you have a flat battery, and you push start your car, a generator will not recharge the battery, but an alternator will.</div></div>
Not that is matters for this discussion but you have the generator/alternator function theory reversed. A generator equipped car will run and can be push started (if fast enought) with the battery disconnected.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> " Might even be an ignition issue!"</div></div>
There have been times in the past when I drove these car for regular transportation and had problems with a coil or condensor that worked fine when cold and when warmed up started to give problems. The coil usually idled ok, but when accelerated to the point of bringing on the vacuum advance started cutting out. The condensor just died when hot.
Willie
1958 Limited Four Door Riviera
in Me and My Buick
Posted
That's pretty nasty. But as long as it is structurally sound it is worth it (this is coming from one who has restored worse ), and as long as the passion for that particular model is there.
Willie