old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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I like my truck too, mainly because it is paid for! It would take a long time at 20 gallons a week to justify a ricer that got 2-3x the gas mileage. With those things you can't haul a Buick nailhead, a sheet of plywood, a deer or feral hog. And I will not drive a vehicle where you are eye level with the lug nuts of an 18 wheeler.
Anyhow here is my scheme for fighting the thieves: (google) "gas credit card". At 5% it is like getting 20 cents off a gallon at $4.00 and $4.00 savings on an $80.00 fillup. Send me a PM if interested in the one that I use that does not expire in 6 mo.
Willie
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I would not worry. Just assemble carefully and store indoors at a constant temperature. Avoid cold temps followed by warm humid air that will condense outside and inside the engine. Maybe for good measure leave the rocker shafts off so that the valves are closed and rotate the engine once every month or so. I have seen rusting/corrosion on the cylinder walls of engines honed with a coarse stone and cast iron rings installed. Don't run it until you are ready to drive it.
Willie
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NTX
All days of the week are the same as far as price, gouging on credit price and other sales inside. The only sources for strictly pay-at-the-pump are supermarkets and Wal-Mart. The prices are usually good the gas is inferior. My old cars run well on branded 87 octane, but the 87 octane at supermarkets and Wal-Mart will cause them to ping like crazy. I avoid stations that gouge or otherwise [censored] me off...there are plenty of others.
Willie
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Ken
Payoff--sittin' behind that big old steering wheel while strokin' down the road. Get your new tires and along with a big ole bucket of money take long road trip. You will not want to park it...
Willie
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Ken
Not too bad. I would just drive it for now. Did you isolate the low compression to the valves with the oil in the cylinders test or use a vacuum gauge?
Willie
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New thieves in town. Oil is down 20% but gasoline is only down 6%...guess who the thieves are. The stations have been crying about the credit card companies' fees taking all their profits and then start building another mega station with virtually no business because there are three other ones at the same intersection.
Oh, and some local stations have a new scheme: post a price on the big sign and then surprise you with a small sticker on the pump stating that the pay-at-the-pump price is 5 cents higher. I seldom go inside since I only need gas and don't want to stand in line behind the fat lady in flip-flops taking 10 minutes to buy lotto and scratch off tickets. A few weeks ago I did pay inside: $82 of gas with a $100 bill only to be told they don't take large bills!
Everyday I have to add a new name to the list of people and businesses who [censored] me off.
Willie
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Pete
Try it again after cooling overnight, using a large screwdriver or tool between the block and ring gear. (a 2 ft screwdriver will give more turning leverage than a 4 ft wrench on the crank bolt)
If that does not work, start disassembly...probably not a bad idea anyhow. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Willie
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Ken
That's not the gasket I was talking about. It is the next one up in the stack betweent the base and the bowl or center section. You showed a carb base to manifold gasket which appears to be a late 55 or 56 gasket used with some Rochester carbs.
Try the 55 carb since it is handy, just to demonstrate that something will work. Probably best to get a working 54 carb eventually since yours seems to be modified.
Willie
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Ken
The primary jets are marked 120 160, the secondary jets are marked 120 158...these are from 1955 parts carbs. I thought that one might be from a 54 since it is taller, but just has a taller airhorn. The 54 carb that is installed and in service has " 1 1/16 " by the venturi (the venturis appear to be markedly smaller than the 55 carbs) when looking down into the carb...the other carbs have no marks.
Get your rebuiild kit and use the service manual for the rebuild. The 55 manual has a very good explanation of the function of all the parts and adjustments.
One other thing to check closely: the gasket between the base and bowl section can be installed 2 different ways...one is wrong and will block vacuum passages including those that go to the piston that works the rods. If you don't have sticking floats or leaking needle/seat that may be the problem.
Willie
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Archie
Maybe the battery is fully charged. If so the amp guage neddle will be horizontal. Turn on the headlites for a few minutes and then start the engine...it should show a charging condition until the battery is again charged.
Willie
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I say wannabe...
Need to put the cap on correctly, get a haircut, ditch the shades and shorts, drink beer instead of Crown Royal.
He does have the right idea on recyling cans==>target practice!
Willie
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Austin hippie or wannabe redneck?
Mike (buick5563) calls himself the Austin,TX hippie.
You be the judge...
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At least nobody was bleeding either time, but were two more good reasons to "Keep your mouth open so it doesn't hit you in the face!"
Willie
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No, I don't mean 40 pounds. I fired up the 264 nailhead that is mounted in a 51 F-1 for the first time. Anyhow, I forgot to put on a gauge and oil shot 40 feet
. Probably adequate.
Bill Stoneberg should have been here for "pay back".
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I was wondering if I can swap parts from the 322 into the 264. The block is cracked on the 322. I want to build the engine to look stock but have lots of get up and go.</div></div>
Some of the parts will swap, but it will be hard to get much "get up and go" out of a 264.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Will the 4b intake from the 322 go on the 264?</div></div>
yes
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can you use the crank and rods from the 322?</div></div>
yes, but both engines have early and late versions where you cannot mix parts.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Which heads are better 322 or 264?</div></div>
the heads are the same on both engines.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I also was going to swap the power steering from the 4 dr to the 2 dr.</div></div>
steering parts will swap between 40 and 60 series.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any one know where I can find a new flywheel? Mine are both shot.</div></div>
Wheatbelt buick in OK. The flywheels are not interchangeable between 40 and 60 series.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are the AT trans the same?</div></div>
the dynaflows were the same.
Repair or find another 322, 1956 is best. Also get a service manual and a parts book; Buick suppliers like CARS and Bob's Automobilia should have reproductions.
Willie
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The 322 had a harmonic damper and the 264 had a simple pulley at the front of the crankshaft. Also all 322's in 55 had a 4-barrel carb. The manifold and carb could be changed, but not the damper/pulley without creating balance problems.
Willie
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Ken
A regular visitor and poster on the forums should be able to answer, his user name is carbking .
Or switch the jets and see how it does.
Willie
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Ken
Dang,I just had a 54 Buick WCFB apart this weekend and could have looked and checked the jet size. I am almost sure that the larger jets are for the secondaries and the smaller are for the primaries. If yours are switched it can cause a rich condition except at full throttle.
Willie
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I vote for judging on Friday, preferably in the morning before the heat of the day. Also for a judged car to be eligible for an award, it must be displayed BOTH Friday and Saturday.
Another change that would be welcomed by the judges would be to eliminate some of the layers of post-judging administration...sometimes judges spend more time after judging than the judging itself.
The extra time should used wisely and not squandered to the point of again rushing at the end.
Willie
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Low tech tips for mid 50's Buicks Part IV: 1955 Power Steering
Companies that rebuild power steering units provide a good service, but at significant expense. Also it is very expensive to ship those things two ways.
I looked at the service manual and decided that it is not that complicated. All that is needed on a properly functioning unit that is leaking is seals and O-rings. First I checked the usual places: Buick suppliers, Ebay, etc. I even tried to buy the seals from the companies that rebuild and only one would sell the seals...for exactly the cost of a rebuild...I declined. Then I went to some old seal catalogues, measured the shaft and housing size and with the help of a good patient counter man at a local seal/bearing store I located the seals. The O-rings were matched also. I had so much fun building the one from a parts car I rebuilt my original leaking unit. The first unit was from a parts car of unknown condition until I disassembled; the second was my original that was leaking power steering (transmission) fluid into the gear box and overflowing from the filler.
No pictures this time? There is nothing I can add to the illustrations and description in the service manual.
Anyhow below is the brand and seal numbers that I used.
Consolidated seal:
22 x 35 x 7 MM
National seals:
471413
472560N
471466
Match your old O-rings.
Tools: normal shop hand tools and a fish scale.
Willie
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See the website since forum changes eliminated the pictures here:
http://www/buickrestorer.com/valleycover.html
Low tech tips for mid 50's Buicks Part III: valve lifter (valley) cover
The valley cover is what the name implies, a cover, but it is essential for the removal of crankcase vapors. Inside is an aluminum mesh that intercepts oil droplets and returns them to the crankcase, while allowing vapors to escape by way of the draft tube. I have seen this mesh so clogged that the crankcase pressure built up to the point of creating or enhancing leaks including the crankshaft main seals. It is impossible to clean without disassembly. Solvents will leave a dry flaking residue to sprinkle on the camshaft. Caustic cleaners used at automotive machine shops will destroy the aluminum mesh making the unit ineffective at stopping oil leaks from the draft tube, while again leaving residue to fall into the engine. The following is my method to disassemble, clean and reasessemble. This unit is from a 1955 322/254 engine; other nailheads may be similar.
Two pictures of a "cleaned" cover. Not so bad?
After using a center punch I use a small drill to create a shallow hole for guide pin of the spot weld cutter. (Notice that I missed one spot weld...not intentional)
Spot welds cut out.
Open, exposing some of the problem. The inner cage for the mesh was cut out in a similar manner. this time I cut only one side and bent it open.
Nasty remnants of the mesh headed for the trash.
To reasessemble I used pop rivets on the inner cage and spot welds elsewhere. Pictured is a spot weld gun from Eastwood, a primitive tool that is hard to control and produces weak welds. But it is good enough for this job. Other ways that I have used included brass brazing and JB Weld. A mig or tig welder if available would be best.
Finished product.
Tools and supplies used: Hammer, center punch, small drill bit, drill, spot weld cutter and the replacement mesh (air conditioner filter); all available locally.
Coming soon: power steering rebuild and ignition switch replacement if it stays this hot in South Texas.
Willie
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Lamar
First I would get a shade tree, then flip the pages of that book at your feet until your question is answered.
Otherwise jump across the terminals of the vacuum switch on the carb with the key on and it should crank. If so, it is in the vacuum switch; if not check back for more "arm chair" ideas. Remember do not short the terminal to ground as they are not fuse protected and will fry your wiring harness.
Willie
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Lamar
Auto City Classic Glass in Minnesota is a good choice. They did the glass for my CVT. They even had the frames around the glass rechromed. Decent price, good workmanship and great service. They should be able to duplicate the code on your glass.
Willie
1954 front shocks
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Ken
Your answer is HERE or on my web site.
This how you respond if you are too lazy to write it again.
Willie