old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Pete
The small hubcaps were standard on all models except 70. The cap was used alone on the 40 and on the 50-60 a trim ring was added (55 parts book: group 5.871 p/n 1323462 1955-50-60). The trim ring is identical to ones used on 15" wheels of early 50's Ford trucks.
My CVT originally had small caps and trim rings on wheels painted body color (Temple Gray) with black stripes.
I did not intend to ambush you Pete
...I'm just old and slow about getting pictures and research done.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'll be driving Black Beauty there from Central Oregon. Plan is to meet a couple others somewhere on the Interstate in Oregon and caravan through Salt Lake City, across southern Wyoming and then south through Denver </div></div>
Before you commit to that route, talk to Bill Stoneberg as that was his route on the Seattle trip 2 years ago. I took the southern route: I-70 to US-6 to Provo and it was much cooler and scenic and I would recommend Provo as a place to stop. The only trouble I had with that route was when I got caught on US-6 behind a 26 car/truck caravan of mexican migrant workers going as hard as they could at 45 mph.
Oh yeah, I will be driving the 55 in the avatar, but probably no caravan with other Texas Road Warriors.
Willie
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Take your brake shoes and drums to your local brake/clutch service center and have the drums turned and the shoes relined and fitted to the drums. You can request a friction material to suit your needs. Do not use Raybestos shoes...they will not stop the car until they get hot.
Others with a 60 Buick will probably soon chime in here.
Willie
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John
Look at the wheel covers...it'a a 55 Special.
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Budd
Some differences on my original 55: Starter green with even the tag painted; distributor stem and clamp green (upper 'bowl' was black with no paint on the tag); even the base of the carburetor was green; the vacuum and fuel lines were green.
Mudbone
The fuel pump in the picture appears unpainted, but I am 100% sure it was painted...all of the painted parts (green)discussed had to be on the engine for the initial test run. Initial test run is the standard when decideing on paint for a part....they did not add or change necessary parts and they did not remove bolts that went into a fluid cavity (power steering bracket...other brackets like air conditioning were added without removing existing fasteners).
Willie
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Pete
Pulleys are plated, probably originally cadmium; balancer, fuel pump, air cleaner bracket are green.
I don't know what water pump is on the engine, but it is not a 55. The only way to put a different year pump on is to change the timing cover...I think you can even put a 401 pump on a 322 if the timing cover is changed also.
Willie
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Polarity is not an issue except for the ammeter. If the radio has had the original 6v vibrator replaced with a solid-state unit is will not work either. You NEED negative ground for any modern 12v accessories.
Willie
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Bill
Thanks for sharing your experiences with the Kanter drums. I will send you a private message about the dash.
Willie
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Update: got the radio working using a resistor that is so simple.... http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ub...adio#Post586011
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Turns out the solution was very simple: Tekonsha 2012 Single Variable Resistor Trailer Brakes.
Just adjust the slide until you have 6v...can mount nearly anywhere; I mounted it on top of the radio...some heat, but acceptable.
Willie
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Two extremes for 55...
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You have a solenoid that is shorted internally or the large cable from the battery is attached to the wrong lug on the solenoid.
Willie
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Bill
Stick to making beer and remember don't quit your day job.....
Willie
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Bob
I have springs from Coil Spring Specialties and they work fine in all 3 of my 55's. It has been awhile but I don't remember any problem with the tops being square or not...I do remember comparing with the originals and they matched as far as size, coils...
Air conditioned 55's have one 1/8" spacer on the right spring only and I remember glueing it and the insulator in place to install the springs.
Willie
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I forgot about the flasher since my primitive machine does not have any. I also considered a 6/12 battery but declined because they are not readily available locally and they are a lead acid battery.... and I will never never ever put another stinking slobbering nasty lead acid battery in a car that I have restored...pay extra for an Optima or other gel cell battery.
If the Merc is going to be modified, hopefully you add some bling and power enhancing goodies to the flathead or consider a nailhead
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Willie
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I am about to finish my current project: installation of a 264 nailhead in a 51 F-1 truck. At first I bought an original wiring harness and planned on using the flathead, but it needed to be pulled for repairs, so.....a trade with a buddy and the nailhead went in. My 'theme' on this project was 'a period engine swap in a work truck' and I was going to keep it 6 volt since all I needed was 6v field coils in the Buick starter. But steering box interference made a 12 volt mini starter necessary....meaning that everything had to be 12 volt.
Ford continued to use 6v gauges even when they converted to 12v in 1956. To make it work they used a constant voltage regulator, a half match box size thingy on the wiring side of the instrument panel to control the fuel, temp and oil pressure gauges...I got mine from a 1960 truck. Your Merc is positive ground so you need to run the main power wire through the hoop on the back of the ampmeter in the opposite direction to get it to read correctly. Also you will need to get a condensor and coil form a late 50's Ford product and connect as the later model...a ballast resistor may be needed. Your 6v starter will work as is. You need a 12v generator with suitable voltage regulator or a 12 alternator. All bulbs will need to be changed, as will the blower motor for the heater, but the original heater speed control should work.
My project uses stock Buick ignition and charging system using the already purchased Ford wiring harness. The only problem I haven't solved is getting the stock 6v positive ground radio to work with 12v negative ground, but I have some ideas. Remember that when you change one thing or solve one problem you creat 3 new problems.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK, so it sounds like I need to go back and check the data plate. The car is about an hour away from me so it might be a while before I can head back out that way.</div></div>
I saw the car a few weeks ago and didn't pay much attention after being told it was sold (actually I have to make myself run from any more 'projects').
Dave, give me a call next trip over this way.
Willie
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Drill and tap (A) for 4 set screws, use J-B Weld between (A) and (
, tighten the set screws after applying Loctite. I did this on a 55 and after 15,000 miles when I rebuilt the whole front end it was still solid.Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jan_Zverina</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You may also want to contact SMS Auto Fabrics up in Oregon. http://www.smsautofabrics.com/ I have had pretty good luck with them on carpet, windlace, upholstery and other interior soft goods.
Jan Zverina
BCA # 39915
1960 Electra 4719
</div></div>
And SMS products are usually dead on correct. While Jenkins stuff is pretty and pretty dang expensive, there is too much deviation from the original. Unfortunately he has shown some high scoring cars and now his work and products are considered the standard.
Roxpoint may be correct for your car, but that is what he wanted to sell me for my 55...Daytona is the correct material for 55.
Willie
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A friend has been mixing and selling automotive paints for 40 years. He says that formulas for the current paints have much more black making the finished product look dull and dirty. Have an old car show at any auto dealer and at any distance the old cars really pop compared to the new cars due to the brighter colors and of course more chrome.
Willie
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Use hydraulic jack oil. That is what I use with good results...I even have an old can of Permatex labeled for hydraulic jacks and knee action shocks. I tried motorcycle fork oil once and must have used the wrong viscosity because the shocks were so stiff that I broke a new link.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TxBuicks</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I want to go partake, too. Please? </div></div>
If you are good and thirsty or just thirsty check out the next Alamo Chapter meeting HERE .
Willie
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Stevo
You and the other northern brethren are welcome to come play with my toys any time. The BCA board meeting in San Antonio last year gave some an opportunity.
Willie
, tighten the set screws after applying Loctite. I did this on a 55 and after 15,000 miles when I rebuilt the whole front end it was still solid.
Prolific Member
in Buick - General
Posted
A synonym of prolific is fertile...I'll leave the rest to your imagination.