old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Pete
All of my Texas built 55's had the instructions originaly glued to the middle of the trunk floor. For shows I attach the instructions to the trunk like Leif...seems to keep the judges happy. The one time that I attached to the floor at a BCA show the judges were not amused...you know that 'documentation' thing.
Willie
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Barney
Keep us updated. I have no problem leaving the Crowne Plaza for the Double Tree if needed.
Willie
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The local gas stations finally stopped their 5-10 cent a gallon surcharge for pay-at-the-pump with a credit card. Now they started selling gas with 10% ethanol. It all started with WALMART and H-E-B (local supermaket chain) gas. I live 30 miles east of San Antonio and work there, so I can drive some of my modern vehicles for a fill there even though they can digest the 10% ethanol (the local gas is also 10-20 cents a gallon more than San Antonio).
So, since Citgo is the only gas that is 'real' it goes in the old iron since my nailheads do not like the 10%...the beer is even cheaper and colder at these little Mom-Pop stations.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lrlforfun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why would I hang out with the Buick Club? That is a good question. Mitch</div></div>
Mitch, it seems you are hanging out right now and have been in the past. Maybe it is where you live, but around here beaters are welcome, as are all Buicks. On the other hand I have heard remarks about 'trailer queens' (not directed personaly at the owners). Now if you show up at a gathering with a car that you have not made the first attempt at cleaning with garbage all over the interior, don't expect a lot of raves. At our club gatherings the biggest crowd will be around the newly resurrected 'survivor' that was driven, like a 1950 with a polished chrome grill grinning out of faded paint. I am the Buick Club and you are welcome to hang out.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bkazmer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do NOT use Simple Green, it damages most plastics, even a tough one like vinyl. Try a boating supplies store, they make some good cleaners for boat seats (which are often white vinyl)that work better than Fantastik (which is one of the better household ones for this)</div></div>
Where are you getting your information. A Google search showed no instances of plastic damage; on the other hand high concentrations were used to stip paint from plastic items with no damage to the plastic.
I use Simple Green in and out of my cars including CVT tops with excellent results and no damage.
Willie
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Pull straight out on the lever. It may require some gentle prying or loop some wire and rig a slide hammer. After that is off you should see how to disassemble the rest.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> If I had known that little 264 could boogie like that, I wouldn't have given it to him.</div></div>
I thought it was a trade? Anyhow I am still one engine short...something wrong with this picture.
Mike and everybody else is welcome to come over anytime and play with my toys.
Update on the truck: drove 150 miles round trip to a car show a few weeks ago and did not open the secondaries on the WCFB (painful!) and it got 17 mpg on the trip driving 60-65 mph (3.96 rear gears). Another reason to recommend the 'baby' nailhead.
Willie
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Charles
Please no "Eyes Of Texas" around this Aggie!
Willie
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#5 unless someone sneaks that number while I am typing...
Willie
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I'm having trouble uploading images to the aaca server...probably has to do with the new software change, so I put it on my little server which may not be dependable (send a pm if it is down).
Anyhow this is a shot of it drivable on public roads but lacking the bed. More to follow.
Willie
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Bill
Thanks for the kind words.
Here is a shot of the engine before being covered up.
I am more than satisfied how everything turned out. That thing is a blast to drive especially when friends come over to plan with the toys. Dual exhaust, more advance in the timing and a carb from a 322 really wakes up the 264...that and a lighter (3400#) vehicle with 3.96 rears gears. I try to shift at 5000 rpm or less, but a few times I have revved past 6000 rpm and it was still pulling strong. What is the 'redline' on a 264 anyhow?
The Mexican food was washed down with a 'few' beers. "Henry" is a 10# Chihuahua mix masquerading as a land shark with a healthy appetite for raw meat attached to fingers and knuckles.
Willie
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Tom
Describe your leak and general location. Sometimes 'seeping' is as good as it gets with a dynaflow. Expect to pay $800 to $2800 for the repair and another $500 to $1000 to R&R.
Willie
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Ken should know how to remove the rear by now
Get a substantial tranmission jack for sure! Those dynaflows are heavy and can mash or mutilate you...
...especially with the car on stands the tranny is 3 feet off the floor.
Willie
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It took me 365,000 miles and many brake shoe changes to get that kind of wear on a 55 Special. The bearings should last longer than that too. And the compression is low for even the low compression 54 Special.....seems you are already suspecting....
Willie
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Rich
I used a correct looking semigloss/eggshell black in Acrylic Enamel without hardner and I have all the problems noted above. And the only way to correct it will be to tear it all down again and repaint...but it sure looked nice for a little while.
Willie
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If you are going to drive it use the most glossy hard paint you can find or powdercoat the same. All dull paints (semigloss, eggshell, flat, etc) are less durable, harder to clean and water spots and stains will be permanent. This is not technically correct, but even BCA judging does not take off points for over-restoration. Remember you only have one good chance to do it right...while it is apart.
Willie
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Rich
To cut the flanges from the tube I used a metal/masonry blade in a skilsaw and dressed with a bench grinder. Today I would probably try my new reciprocating saw (sawzall). Can't remember how I split the front flange...probably a hacksaw. The rod is just the common hardware store variety. Let me know if you need to borrow mine...might be $10.00 shipping each way...it has already been all over the country.
Willie
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Update: Here is an image that has recently been on the forums... I enhanced it and it shows a 55 Buick rear with an open driveshaft. The lever shocks are present as are the strut rods and the panard bar. Also visible are the pinion locking bolts. There are probably some links above the axle that are not visible.
Willie
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d2_willys
Like I stated the tool showing installing the driveshaft...just reverse the nuts and it will pull. It is easier to understand if you have your parts in front of you. I have never seen a yoke for an open driveshaft installed, but it probably could be done. There is a pinion seal...check the service manual for details.
Willie
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Rich
Congratulations (or condolences) on tackling this job.
I made a puller using the front and rear flanges from a 55 Buick torque tube. Using this method, forces are directed through the front pinion bearing and this could damage it; I have used it on 3 R&R projects and loaned it for 4 other projects without any issues. The other way that I used before this was to have a driveline shop cut off the tube (shaft), press the remainder off the pinion and then weld the tube back on after pressing on to the pinion ($$$) and then straighten the shaft.
You will not need heat or a BFH using the puller...let us know if you have any other questions. (the puller is shown installing)
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If you isolate the tank like it is supposed to be, be sure to use the original steel gas line fitting. If you use a section of rubber line the tank will not be grounded and the gas gauge will not work...otherwise run a separate ground wire to the sending unit.
Willie
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I saw this advertised in the Bugle today and wondered anyone has any personal experience with this product.
Willie
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I seem to recall figuring that out long time ago now. I think I was just hoping I was wrong. So that means no chrome trim rings on my lil Special.</div></div>
Wrong again motor mouth. Many Buicks, even Specials had the optional full wheel covers, so the trim rings could be a 'step up' option on the Special.
Willie
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A synonym of prolific is fertile...I'll leave the rest to your imagination.
Wheel bearing looseness... Again
in Buick - General
Posted
Mike
The temp gauge on 55's is pegged at 200°.That's the good news; the bad news, it is also pegged above 200°. Your pressure cap raises the boiling point 3° for each pound so a 7# cap would raise the boiling point to 233° and if your coolant is 50% add another 8°.
I hate looking at the pegged needle, but just keep on driving listening and smelling for a boil over. At 220° my nailheads will start pinging from increased head temperatures. An accurate aftermarket gauge would help, but the BCA judges will not be amused.
Retarded timing can contribute to overheating, but you would notice drivability and economy changes.
Willie