old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Glad you found the problem....
Best check them all
Better to change all of the wheel cylinders and all of the brake hoses. The brake shoes that are wet from the leaking wheel cylinder cannot be cleaned for use again. Replace all brake shoes, but do not use Raybestos---best to take the old shoes to your local clutch/brake rebuilder and tell them you want to stop 4500 lbs of old iron with drum brakes. They can reline with friction material that will mimic disc brakes. Flush your brake fluid every 2 years. Repack the front wheel bearings with synthetic bearing grease ( I use a Valvoline product). Also consider replacing the rear axle seals and repack with the same grease.
Napa should have the wheel cylinders, Rockauto the hoses and Bob' Automobilia the axle seals ( my choice for best prices ).
Less than 2 days work, reasonable expense and you are good for many years of safe driving.
Willie
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Lamar
As long as you are dreaming: Supercharger
Even a 264 would benefit. A more modern solution would be fuel injection and one or two turbos. And as long as I'm stressing your engine and spending your money there is alway nitrous.
Willie
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Aren't Buick people great, Thanks. I hope to be at Ames next summer since it is so close so I will buy you a beer or a cup of coffee whichever you want if you are there.
Sid
Either will be fine and I look forward to meeting you and your son.
Willie
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Sid
The gasket is on the way. If I have a part that I don't need it is always free to BCA members---to non members it is $50 ( and a membership in BCA goes with the part ). If I need the part or even think I will need it, it is not for sale at any price. That gasket is used in late 55 and 56 Buicks and rebuild gasket sets for 264-322 cover all from 1953-56, so this was an extra that until recently did not know where it was used since none of my 55's had the plate on the bottom of the manifold.
Enjoy,
Willie
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Gary
Rich has done this more recently than I have so he is the resident expert. Did you ever get your front shocks rebuilt; if so, some rebuilders cut the arms where they join near the pin and then weld back together...if not done correctly it can be deformed enough to cause problems.
Willie
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Still having some problems with the Sonomatic radio on my 1950 Buick. So far I've replaced the vibrator and the OZ4 tube, blew out the inside with canned air, checked the antenna connection (yes it's fully extended). When I turn the radio on, it comes on but all I'm getting is a stuttering noise. I've also tried adjusting the antenna trim and still nothing. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Scott
Scott
Test the other tubes or swap with known good tubes; there is good chance that the capacitors are bad. Probably need to send to pros like Alan Kriss.
Willie
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Google "picture resizer" and take your pick.
Willie
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Fusick Olds is one of my favorites and of course try the Chevy suppliers.
Willie
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....a WCFB four-barrel with the Buick starter switch, and a cast pully on the front with no harmonic balancer....
Doug
The number and four-barrel would be correct for a 55 Super, but that engine should have a harmonic balancer...only the Special (264) had the cast pulley. While the cast pulley would 'fit' the 322 it would not work well since both engines are balanced front and back differently. But who knows what rodders have done over the years.
Willie
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G'day all
What does anyone recommend if one of the rear shocks is leaking like a sieve? I have printed off from here/ or another forum, a guide on rebuilding the rears ourselves, so we'll have to give that a go.
Carly and Shane
In case you missed it this is how I solve leaks HERE
Willie
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Willie: How the heck do you use vice grips or big pliers?? That sounds like the "bull" method! I'd have to work out for about 6 months first!
Thanks for the help!!!
Gary
Right, that is the bull method. The only good news is when you slip the blood does not affected the function of the brake shoes.:eek:
Willie
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Gary
The service manual says to use a large pair of pliers. I have used vise grips in the past, but with the propper tool I don't bleed as much.
Willie
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Check out the places that redo the truck bumpers. Around here they send to Mexico. The price is about 1/2 the local platers and the quality is excellent.
Willie
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Willie, I should just PM you since you know all! And although Lamar has taken up the flag of enhancing my reputation as the "Bull", and although, yes, I like the BFH and my Plasma Torch, I was in fact trying to use some finesse with the bearing install, with the key word being trying.
I did manage to get the bearing wedged since my idea of light tapping is somewhat confused. I had one side in a 1/16th too far. So, with some "light" tapping on the other side I managed to get it lined up and it then slid into place with not much effort. Hopefully I didn't hurt anything since I don't want to pull it out. The other side, now that I'm more educated in these matters was a breeze!
By the way, the CAR bearings look very nice. I think I'm OK with Japanese bearings!
Gary
Gary
First of all, I don't know all and I learn more than I contribute from these forums. My second point is while I will respond to a PM, taking it private deprives others of the information. Third, keep trying, even if you have to walk away for awhile (don't ask how many times I have had to walk away from a flared fitting). Fourth Mike should have responded to your problem since I showed him how to do it--how to do it wrong. Fifth, the BFH has gotten me in trouble and cost some time and money...another reason I have resisted buying a Plasma Torch.
Glad it is going together.
Willie
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Gary
If the housing is clean and lubricated the bearings "should" just tap in. Try a test fit of the old bearing. If you get it started a little cocked it will bind and never go in. Be sure you did not mar the housing from pounding--a bigger hammer is not always needed.
Willie
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Leif
I don't know if it is right or left, but the inlet to the radiator would be the line line coming from the front of the transmission where the pump is located. The outlet would be the line going to the rear of the transmission.
Willie
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Use abrasives as a last resort. I use Sanivac lime and hardwater cleaner for bath, shower, etc. This a phosphoric acid product that will remove rust stains bleeding out of cracks in the chrome and remove mineral deposits. Wet the area for a few minutes and rinse, then polish or wax. If unsatisfactory go to the abrasives and then the chrome shop.
Willie
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Gary
I have no experience with Japanese bearings.
Willie
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Gary
The bearing that I used (Bower or BCA number=RA 1502 EL) will work on 45-55 and I got it locally at a bearing/seal supplier. The inner race that is pressed onto the axle is harder to find and I don't have that number---you probably don't need to change it anyhow unless there are large pits or gouges. A lite coat of grease on the seal edges and axle should do it. Check the country of origin on the package...for all I know these may be foreign by now too.
Willie
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Gary
Install both the same way with the cone or lip pointing to the center of the axle. Unless your old bearings are defective, consider using them instead of some possibly newly made in China bearings that will soon fail. If the old ones are bad, try to find some NORS American made bearings like New Departure.
Pack with a good grease like Vaolvoline Synthetic and you will never have to service again.
Willie
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McMaster Carr (McMaster-Carr) sells fabric-reinforced rubber sheet (and just about any other tool, material, fastener, or industrial supply you might need). The rubber is available in various thicknesses and materials (Buna-N, neoprene, EPDM, and silicone).
Thanks for the responses so far.
I checked and the thinnest they have is 1/32 inch (~0.030)...I need 1/64 inch (0.015).
Willie
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Tinkering again: trying to rebuild the vacuum diaphragm for a 55 Buick. The material appears to be 2 ply rubber/cloth mesh reinforced about 0.015 inch thick.
I made a working unit using vinyl seat uphostery material, so I know my method is workable. No, I am not going into business, but will share with others that are willing to spend some time instead of money.
Willie
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Old discussion that never did get resolved and is now missing some images. Too many differences in measuring technique. My personal conclusion is that the length of the 1954 and 1955 50-70 series are the same as all of 1956 and that length is one inch (1") longer than the 1954 and 1955 40-60 series. Take your pick of actual dimensions submitted.
Willie
BUICKMAN AWARD
in Buick - General
Posted
Hey Guys
I really appreciate the selection for the Buickman Award and am honored to be in such good company. For me this ranks right up there with receiving a Gold/Senior after a 7 year restoration. Thanks!
But heck, I am just another enabler of this addiction. Here is how it works: I give you a little advice, maybe some parts, a bit of help, all the while telling you it is normal to spend hours on or under a car and finally go to bed sore and bleeding. Then when the project is finished I reveal how much fun it is to drive across the country...one to four thousand miles is no big deal. Just take off like you know what you're doing, you are now addicted and are expected to pass it on to others.
Willie