old-tank
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Posts posted by old-tank
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Sounds like it could be carburetor icing. In cold weather moisture in the air will condense and freeze on the throttle plates and other parts in the lower carb. That is why newer cars had that large hose from an exhaust manifold to the air cleaner. Getting the heat riser in the drivers side manifold working will help. I used to spray the carb internals with WD-40 and it seemed to help keep the ice from sticking.
Willie
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I alway R&R with the intake manifold off and use the 4 end holes in the head that held the intake manifold to attach chains. Paint the engine and intake separately, assemble and paint the bolt heads with a small brush.
Willie
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Lamar
It is definitely easier to pull both the engine and tranny with the front clip off if the tranny needs to be pulled. It can be done with the front clip in place, but a little more tedious...it helps if you have way to change the tilt of the engine during R&R.
Willie
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The center rotating section with the arm pulls out...may need some prying with a screwdriver and pulling with a wire. Inside is a spanner nut to remove, then everything except the bezel comes out of the back of the dash. There are 2 vacuum lines and of course the control cable.
Willie
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Ken
Lamar hit it before I could...you probably have a 55 or 56 tranny in the car. The shaft is sealed with a lip seal that is impossible to find and even a new one will leak some. Use your imagination to seal it and drive as is...with no linkage to stator control it will function like 54 with no "passing gear". Check out http://www.agentbudd.com/56Buick/index2.html ...there should be some info and/or diagrams and explanations of the stator control. If you want to activate the stator control check back for some ideas.
Willie
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I have used SEM (brand) paint made for refinishing plastic to touch up damaged white walls with good results for durability.
In times past used car lots would be visited by individuals who would grind the black walls and paint on white to increse the value of the car. It turned the tire while on the car.
Willie
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I would stick with 160 or 180. Many of our older Buicks, my 55's included read HOT on the temp gauge at 200*. Even with no problems I don't looking at the needle way up there. Also if using 195 you should have at least 50% coolant mixture and a 16# cap (which would require replacing or modifying the filler neck). An engine would tolerate those pressures but maybe not the original radiator or heater. The reason for the 50% and 16# is that any engine and more especially a nailhead and some others will have hot spots much hotter than the coolant temp. I tried a 195 years ago in one of my 55's and before the thermostat opened I started getting that sick chugging percolator sound before it puked coolant (less than 50% mixture) out of my 6# radiator cap.
Back in the late 60's the family had a 55 Special (with a 160) when we lived for a year in the UP of Michigan. Never had any problems with enough heat in the car.
Willie
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Ken
It looks like you have 3 spare O-rings...not used on 54-55.
Willie
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Ken
Can you post a picture of the parts? Most 'kits' will have the outter torque ball retainer (with vulcanized rubber), some shims/gaskets for the retainers, a gasket to be used between the torque ball and torque tube and a seal for the front of the torque tube.
By the way you don't need to set the tension on the torque ball using varing shims as described in the service manual if using the new one with rubber...that only applies to the original that used a metal to metal seal(?).
Willie
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Patrick
At 15-20mph the rear oil pump is supplying pressure, but apparently no help there.
Check out this site
for 56 specifics. Even if you don't do the work on the tranny yourself, you can get a good understanding to ask the right questions and be sure the answers are not BS.
Willie
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Patrick
Hopefully you find a good tranny man that has seen a dynaflow before...who starts with an external inspection of the accumulators (still might be a blown low accumulator gasket as Bob suggested), pressure checks as outlined in the service manual; inspection of the valve body including the low servo and pressure regulator; then inspection of the low band lever and strut. One other test you can do is to see if low works AFTER the car has been in motion in drive...shift to LOw at 15 to 20mph.
I had to do R&R on a dynaflow 4 times and I don't wish that pain on anyone. Even though it 'may' have to be removed you can narrow down the source of the problem...maybe even repair without removing.
Willie
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Does Reverse work in addition to Drive?
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There used to be the option to display your real name in your profile, but that option disappeared after and upgrade..
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I use the 85w140...kinda like the 20w50 I use in the engine instead of 30. It apparently works well with no leaks. When I broke the axel on the way back from Batavia the shop that did the work used 75w90 and that worked and maybe even gave better gas mileage, but it seeped everywhere including around the pinion locking bolts. They also could not find a gasket or wanted to make one for the rear cover so they globbed on a bunch of RTV that leaked. I use Felpro 3019, Cork 1/8 12X36 Sheet to make my gaskets for the rear cover.
Willie
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You read too much and worry too much
. Anyhow you got me curious and I went to the shop to see what I have been using. The bottle of Pennziol 85w140 is rated GL-3, GL-4, GL-5. No failures in any of my 3 cars driven 5k-40k. This article seems to make the most sense. I have not inspected any of the brass washers, but did not see any metal particles a few months ago when I removed the differential cover to replace the gasket. This probably another 'non issue' like zince in motor oil.
Willie
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Lamar
The angled ones are correct...need to fit under the spark plug covers. Actually if he covers are in place you cannot see what kind of boot is used (mine have incorrect orange boots). Just use black wires with a real wire core.
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Lamar and Kevin, thanks for the responses. I have available a 1955 series 40 264 engine and a 1956 flywheel (322 engine). The engine is complete and running and I don't want to disassemble to balance. I have some working inquiries to see if I can have the 56 flywheel balanced like the original 55-264 flexplate... a 264 flywheel would be easier. Alternately I might try to get a 322.
Willie
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What are the differences between 53-54-55-56 nailhead flywheels? For instance 55 lists 2 flywheels: one for the 40 series and another for the other series. I know that the 40 series uses a 10" clutch and the others use a 10.5" clutch and there would be difference in the location of the pressure plate attachment holes. Is there other difference like balance, since these engines are externally balanced?? Could the flywheels be interchanged between the series if using the appropriate clutch?
Willie
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Kevin
On my 55 CVT (66C) I cut down hardtop spring for the seat bottom and used a chunck of firm foam for the seat back, using only the main frame of very rusty seat.
Willie
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This is one thread that the moderators should watch...before someone posts a picture of a "healthy" ol' boy bent over the hood with a plumbers butt showing. No crack allowed here...
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At the bottom of each page is a list of the moderators. BUICK RACER is listed first on the BCA forums. Maybe the modderators should be the ones to moderate the forums. They are most familiar with the tone and individuals.
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Right on Lamar! There was nothing political about the posts, except that here it is not politically correct to be patriotic. I've locked horns with Peter in the past over moving, closing and deleting posts...he is still in charge and I am still here, but for how long...
Willie
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Kevin
I have what appears to be a complete column from 54 Century w/dynaflow. The piece you need is intact. The whole column needs to go...let me know it you can use.
Willie
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Ken
Whatever you do, don't order one from CARS. I had PROBLEMS ! FATSCO is you best bet since Bob's will charge a $50 deposit.
Willie
getting really p*()sed off
in Buick - Post War
Posted
By the way what carb does the car have?